
Class _ _ 
Book_ __ 



COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT 



XV 











. • THE . . 

ADIRONDACKS 

ILLUSTRATED. 



CONTAINING • • • 

SCRIPTION OF NOTABLE FEATURES OF THE REGION ; FORESTRY AND ITS 

FORESTS, THEIR CONDITION AND NEEDS ; HINTS CONCERNING FISH AND 

FISHING, SUPPLIES AND GENERAL OUTFIT FOR CAMP AND TRAIL ; 

COST AND MANNER OF REACHING THE VARIOUS RESORTS ; 

HOTELS, WITH CAPACITY, PRICE OF BOARD, ETC. ; TABLES 

OF ELEVATION AND DISTANCES ; MAPS, ETC., ETC. 



. . . BY . . . 

S. R.^TODDARD, 



AUTHOR OF 



nCONDEROGA," "LAKE GEORGE and LAKE CHAMPLAIN. 



0\ TWENTY.FIFTH EDITION. 

JUL 19 1895 

GLENS FALLS, N. Y.\ 

PUBLISHED BY THE A iJ^Mmtl^ 

* Copyright, 1893, by S. R. Stoddard. ^ ^ > »_^, y^ J 

^ 2^^ /^ '^^^^ 



GREETING: 

I made my first trip to the heart of the Adirondack 
Wilderness in 1873, covering in a series of loops its 
more noted sections and routes. The following year 
the experience and matter gathered in the round 
were given in narrative form, and on this narrative 
thread has been annually strung the changes of suc- 
ceeding years. 

Changes ? Wild grass grows on the old routes and 
the unknown places of then are now centers of a sum- 
mer population greater than the total of all Adiron- 
dack visitors of twenty years ago. 

So the old Narrative is dropped and the space 
given to that which will be of more value to the 
tourist generally, and all condensed into a more con- 
venient form. The ' ' New Adirondacks " is the result. 
How do you like it ? 

Railroads encircle the Adirondacks like the iron 
frame of a landing net. From the encircline: lines 
others penetrate the interior, crossing each other and 
branching in turn to reach important points, or lose 
themselves among the mountains or in the watery 
highways that are woven in a net-work all over the 
lake region of the west. Let us consider the Wilder- 
ness as the face of a great clock, with Mount Marcy 
the pivot on which the mighty hands are turning. 
The more important Gateways are numbered to rep. 



VI 



GREETING, 



resent the hours, according to position ; thus Platts- 
burgh fairly represents I o'clock, Port Kent II, West- 
port III, while the others follow in order as the hands 

go the familiar 
way around the 
dial. The sever- 
al routes from 
i m portant 
points to Gate- 
w a y s w i 1 1 be 
found on pages 
236-7-8. The 
route to interior 
points is follow- 
ed sepa r a t e 1 y 
from each Gate- 
way in the fol- 
lowing pages, 
for which see 
index. The 
map on page 4 will give a clear idea of the location 
of the principal resorts. 

Hotels are referred to in special index (page x). 
For rates of board and particulars not found in the 
body of the book, see Appendix — indexed on page 
241. For mountains and table of elevations, see page 
xii. Lakes and ponds, altitude, page xi. Sug- 
gestions concerning camp and outfit will be found in 
Chapter II. For fishing and fishing outfit see Chap- 
ter XII. For particular points consult the index. 



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GREETING. 



The question of the hour in Adirondack matters is 
the preservation of the forests ; of great value as a 
whole — of vital importance as regards the tributaries 
of the Hudson River. The gradual annual shrinkage 

in the water 
supply of this 
river, with its 
sudden floods 
a n d as sudden 
d r y i n g-u p o f 
tributary 
streams, are 
warnings that 
should n o t b e 
ignored. Royal 
of birth though 
it be ; famed 
the world over 
and beautiful 
beyond com- 
pare, it is less 

[Light portion shows Hudson River drainage.] •■ • . 

K n o w n m its 
birthplace than in almost any other section of the 
wilderness. The forest covering of this entire region 
is threatened with destruction. It should be under 
control of the State. A law should be enacted pro- 
hibiting the ciittitig of ev 67' green trees oft all Adi- 
rondack lafids lying j,Soo feet above tide, except 
with the approval of competent authority under the 
government. 




NDEX. 



GENERAL. 



237 



236 



Adirondacks 

In General 

Advice 

Area 

Expenses 

HOW REACHED FKOM 

Binghamton 

Boston •• 

Montreal 23 

New York.... 

Niagara Falls 23» 

Thousand Islands 23S 

Washing-ton 237 

White Mountains 238 

Adirondack League Club. 215 

Mountain Reserve i53 

Park 221 

Post-Office ^67 

Ruined Village i75 

Sanitarium 72 

Advertisements, lnaex.240-241 

Appendix 239 

Arnold, Benedict 51 | 

Au Sable Chasm 41 

Au Sable River 133 

Au Sable Valley 132 

Bartlett Carry 83 

Battle of Plattsburgu 56 

Beaver Lake Country 217 

Bisby Club 217 

Bloomingdale 69 

Bog River Falls 95 

Brown, John 119 

Brown s, John, Grave 121 

Brown Tract 212 

Buntline, Ned 193 

Burlington 39 

Buttermilk Falls 205 

Catholic Summer School.. 58 

Cedar Kiver 185 

Chateaugay Chasm 66 

Chestertown 163 

Childwold 103 

Childwold (Station; 99 

Clothing ■•- 6 

Cold River 91 

Crablsland 56 



PAGE 

29 



Crown Point Ruins 

Cumberland Head 58 

Drowned Lands, The 93 

Dunning, Alvah 107 

Elizabethtown 135 

Essex 37 

Euba Dam 140 

FistLing 228 

Bait Fishing 232 

Buoy Fishing 2^,3 

Flies 230 

Lake Trout 2 :;2 

Tackle 231 

Trolling 232 

Fish, where found 234 

Forests, and Forestry.. 222 

Commission 220 

Destruction 225 

Natural Reservoirs 223 

Fort Frederick 31 

Fort Montgomery 59 

Fort Ticonderoga 26 

Gateways. 

1 Plattsburgh 60 

2 Port Kent 131 

3 Westport 1j5 

4 Port Henry 159 

5 Crown Point 159 

6 Ticonderoga 159 

7 Saratoga 161 

8 Fonda 184 

9 Herkimer 211 

10 Lowville 217 

11 Carthage 218 

DeKalb Junction 219 



13 Potsdam 

14 Moira 

15 Malone 

16 Chateaugay 

Game Ijaws 

General Divisions 

Guides 

Herkimer 

Hotels, Special Index 
Hunting • 



103 
98 
70 
66 

235 



235B 

21X 



INDLr! 



PAGE 

Indian Carry oo 

Indian Pass 178 

Indian River 183 

Insect preparations 21 

Jay (Lower) 32 

Jay (Upper) ^32 

Keene \ alley 40 

Guides 57 

Outfit, Camp 18 

Ladies' 16 

Mens' 13 

Lakes, Special Index. . . xi 

Leavitt Stage Line 164 

Lone: Lake Village 209 

Luzerne 

Lyon Mountain 

Malone 

Maps. 

Adirondack Park 

Adirondack Wilderness 

Au Sable Chasm 

Blue Mountain Lake 

Champlain. Lake 

Chateaugay, Lake 

Cumberland Bay 

Elizabethtown 

Forked Lake 

Gateways 

Keene Valley 

Placid, Lake 

Raquette Lake j^g 

Saranac Lake (Lower — 

Saranac Lake (Upper). . . |* 

Tupper Lake ^^ 

Marcy, Mt 130 

Marion River 

Medicine Chest 

Mountains, index.... 

Ne-ha-sa-ne Park 

Ne wcomb 

North Creek 

North Elba 

Old Forge 

Old Mountain Phelps 

Peasleville 

Phantom Falls 

Plattsburgh 



104 



Ponds, Special index.... xi 

Port Douglas 40 

Port Henry 31 

Port Kent... 40 

Potsdam 102 

Pottersville 164 

Railroads. 

Ad'k & St. Lawrence 211 

Au Sable Valley 132 

Carthage and Ad'k 218 

Central Vt 237 

Chateaugav. 60 

N. Y. C. & H. R 272 

Delaware & Hudson ca 

K., Au S. C. & L. C 40 

Northern Ad'k q8 

Saranac & Lake Placid. , 1^7 

Raquette Falls q/ 

Raquette Lake igg 

Camps 202 

Raquette River go 

Riverside 163 

Roaring Brook Falls 132 

Rock Dunder 38 

Rogers' Station j^g 

Rouse's Point 50 

Sageville 184 

Salmon River Valley ^33 

Saranac Lake (village) ya 

Schroon Lake (village).. . jgg 

Split Rock Falls ^Z 

Split Rock 36 

Sporting Outfit 22 

Stony Creek qq 

Sumner Park 204 

Sweeney Carry g^ 

Tahawas ^^4 

Ticonderoga, Fort 27 

Tupper Lake (village) „- 

Valcour Island ^. 

Vergennes 37 

Westport 33. J3- 

Whitehall ^l 

Willsborough Point ,7 

Wilmington Notch ,";-, 

Wakelv Dam .3^ 

Woodhull Tract ,,^ 



HOTELS. 



Adirondack Lodge 

Adirondack (North Creek) 
Adirondack (KeeneValley) 

Algonquin 

American House 

Ames' Mountain View 

Ampersand 

Antlers 

Avers' Hotel 

Baldwin Cottage.. 

Banner House 

Bay View House 

Berkeley House 

Blinn House 

Blue Mount n Lake House. 
Blue M't'n H. (Merwin's).. 
Brightside-on-Raquette. . . 

Burleigh House 

Cascade Lake House 

Castle Rustico 

Champlain, Hotel 

Chester House . . 

Childwold- 

Coppins House 

Cranberry Lakje House 

Del Monte 

Edgewood Inn 

Estes House 

Flume Cottage 

Forest House 

Forge House 

Fort Ticonderoga Hotel. . . 

Fouquet House 

Fourth Lake House 

Fenton House 

Grand View House 

Grove House 

Grove Point House 

Hemlocks 

Hotel Douglas 

Indian Point House 

Interlaken(Chateaugay L) 
Interlaken (Essex Co.).. . 

Ladd's .. 

Lake House, Crown Pt. . . . 
Lake House, Schroon L.... 

Lake House, Long L 

Lake Placid House 

I-ake View House 



Leland House 

Lin wood Cottage 

Loon Lake House 

Mansion House 

Maple Grove Mt. House.. 

Maplewood Inn 

Meacham Lake House 

Merrill House 

Miller's Saranac Lake H.. 

Mirror Lake Hotel 

Moose River House 

M't'n View H., Essex Co. . 
Mt. View H., Franklin Co. 

North River Hotel 

Onda wa 

Paul Smith's 

Pond View House 

Pottersville Hotel 

Prospect House 

Rainbow Inn 

Ralph's 

Raquette Falls Hotel 

Ray Brook House 

Redside Camp 

Richards House 

Riverside Inn 

Root's Hotel 

Ruisseaumont 

Rustic Lodge 

Sagamore 

Saranac Club House 

Saranac Inn , 

Saranac Lake House 

Sunset Camp 

St. Hubert's Inn 

Stevens House 

Tahawus House 

Taylor House. 

Tromblee's 

Tupper Lake House 

Under-Cliflf 

Watch Rock Hotel . 

Wawbeek Inn 

Wayside Inn 

Westport Inn 

White Face Inn 

Willey House 

Windsor, The 

W^itherill House 



172 

73 

66 

139 

147 

139 

71 

65 

77 

107 

212 

69 

70 

182 

173 
69 
102 
164 
190 
67 
62 
91 
105 
94 
34 
73 
173 
"3 
89 
207 
82 
84 
77 
200 

149 
III 
145 
167 

92 
95 
115 
365 
88 
162 

33 
112 

140 

137 

58 




LAKES AND PONDS. 



ELEV. PAGE 

-Ampersand Pond 2,078 

Augur Lake 

Au Sable Lake (L'w'r) 1,959 
Au Sable Lake (Up'r) 1,993 

-Avalanche Lake 2,856 

Beaver Lake i>435 

Blue Mountain Lake . . 1,800 

Bonaparte 

Bog Lake i»75S 

—Boreas Pond 2,046 

-Calamity Pond 2.712 

-Canada Lakes (West) 2,348 

-Cascade Lakes 2,038 

Catlin Lake. 1,583 

—Cedar Lakes 2,529 

Chain Lakes (Seven).. 

Champlain 99 

Chapel Pond 1,551 

Chateaugay Lake (L'r) 
Chateaugay Lake (U'r) 
Chazy Lake i»5oo 

—Clear Lake 2,159 

Colden, Lake 

Cranberry Lake i)54o 

■^Crooked L. (H'k'r Co)2,o22 

Eagle Lake 1,800 

Elk Lake (Mud Pond). 1,981 

Forked Lake 1,753 

Forked Lake (Little).. 

Francis Lake 1,457 

Fulton Chain-First L. 1,684 
Fulton C'n-Eighth L. 1,803 
George 343 

-Giant's Washbowl — 2,233 

Horkness, Lake 

Re ""derson. Lake 1,874 



178 



ELEV. PAGB 



.73» 
.725 
,61+ 



Indian Lake ) 

1 ngraham Pond 

[ordan Lake 

Lewey Lake ^ 

lAla., Lake , 1 

Long Lake : 

Loon Lake (Fr'lin Co.) 

Luzerne Lake 

Massawepie Lake 

Meacham Lake 

Mirror Lake 1,856 106 

Moose Lake (Little)... 1,787 185 

Moose Lake (Big) 

Mud Lake 1,745 



183 
71 
103 

217 
206 
66 

1(2 

99 
71 



.774 



Ne-ha-sa-ne Lake 1,704 

Paradox Lake 

Piseco Lake 

Placid, Lake.. 
Pleasant, Lake 

-Preston Ponds 
Ragged Lake.. 
Rainbow Lake 
Raquette Lake 

Raquette Pond 

St. Regis Lake 1,623 

Sanf ord. Lake 1,800 

Saranac Lake (Low'r)i,539 
Saranac Lake (Mid'le)i,542 82 
Saranac Lake (Upper)i,577 83 

Schroon Lake 830 165 

Stony Creek Ponds. ..1,642 go 

..-Tear of the Clouds 4,321 ^29 

Thirteenth Lake 1,953 183 

Tupper Lake (Big).... 1,554 93 
Tupper Lake (Little).. 1,728 q^ 
Utowana Lake,., 154 



1,863 106 
1,706 185 
2,206 178 
70 
67 
195 
97 
70 
175 



Xll 



MOUNTAINS. 

(Table of Elevations.) 



KAXK. NAME. KLKV. 

Ampersand. . . . 3,432 
Bartlett 3,715 

5 Basin 4)Qos 

Black 2,661 

Blue Mountain. 3,824 
Catamount Mt.. 3,128 
Cobble Hill.... 1,936 

11 Colden .•...4>753 

20 Colvin 4jI42 

Crane's 3,289 

4 Dix 4j9i6 

17 Giant... 4,530 

12 Gothic 4,744 

6 Gray Peak 4,902 

3 Haystack 4,918' 

10 Little Hayst'ck 4,766 
Hopkin's Peak.3,136 

Hurricane 3,763 

Indian Face 2,536 

Mount Jo ,. 



PAGE. 

77 
156 
156 
139 
1 90 

1^0 
126 



139 

155 
126 



RANK 

19 



NAMK. Er,KV. 

Lyon Mount'n., .3,809 

Macomb 4i37i 

Marcy(Tahawusj5,344 

Mclntire 5»2oi 

Nipple Top 4,684 

Noon-Mark. ...3,548 
North River... 3,758 

Owl's Head 2,825 

Redfield 4,688 

Resagonia 

Saddle 4,536 

St. Regis 2,888 

Santanoni 4,644 

Seward 45384 

Skylight 4>889 

Snowy 3,903 

Split Rock 

Tahawus 

Wallface 3,893 

Whiteface 4,871 



129 
126 
144 
141 

206 



154 
136 
70 

206 
158 
144 
36 
129 
179 




THE ADIRONDACKS 



CHAPTER I. 
In General. 

ON wings of thought swifter than the lightning's 
flash we sweep away across the drowsy earth, 
past smoke-polluted cities, sun-scorched meadows, 
burning plain and highways with their flaunting skirts 
of sand, nor rest until the fragrant odor of wild 
flowers and the dewy breath of forest trees come like 
incense wafted to us from below. 

Come with fne up into a high mountain. I cannot 
show you "all the kingdoms of the world," — but 
"the glory of them." Over a rippling ocean of for- 
ests first in long, swelling waves, now rising, now 
sinking down into deep hollows ; here in grand moun- 
tains, crested as with caps of foam, there tormented 
by counter currents into wildly dashing shapes, like 
ocean billows frozen by Divine command, their sum- 
mits glittering granite, their deep green troughs 
gleaming with threads of silver and bits of fallen sky. 



2 THE AOIRONDACKS. 

Now the trees of the valley glide away behind us, 
now come dark spruce and pine and the sturdy balsam 
climbing the mountain-side, tall and graceful at first 
but as the mountains rise, growing smaller, gnarled 
and twisted, and scarce above the surface, sending 
their branches out close along the ground, their white 
tops bleached and ghastly, like dead roots of upturned 
trees ; now the hardy lichens ; now naked rock, and we 
stand on the wind-swept summit of-" Tahawus," the 
cloud-piercer of the Indian. 

Around Tahawus cluster the other great mountains 
— east, west, north, south — limitless, numberless, a 
confused mass of peaks and ridges, crowding close 
up to the base of their chief, and receding in waves of 
green all down through the scale of color to its blue 
and purple edge. Pen can convey no idea of its sub- 
limity ; the pencil fails to even suggest the blended 
strength and delicacy of the scene. The rude laugh 
is hushed, the boisterous shout dies out on reverential 
lips, the body shrinks down feeling its own littleness, 
while the soul expands, and rising above the earth, 
claims kinship with its Creator, questioning not His 
existence. 
Westward from the mountains, in a broad semi- 
circle, at an average elevation of i, 600 feet 
above tide, is the Great Lake Region, 
where a multitude of lakes and ponds form 
the head-waters of streams that radiate 
to all points, finding their way south to 
the Hudson, or at the west and north into the great 




THE ADIROXDACKS. 3 

lakes and through the St. Lawrence into the sea. 
These western lakes and streams are so closely con- 
nected that almost every mile of that section may be 
traversed by boat, save for short carries from one 
water system into another, or to go around some rapid 
or waterfall. 

The term Adirondack, interpreted to mean " Bark- 
eater," was originally applied in derision by the In- 
dians of the south to tribes occupying the northern 
slope of the interior, and in time was used to desig- 
nate the mountains, until finally by common use it 
was extended to include the entire wilderness. The 
section is an irregular oval, covering about go miles 
east and west and a hundred or more north and south, 
with its eastern third cut off by Lake George and 
Lake Champlain. Out of this is to be taken a con- 
siderable section of cleared and cultivated land 
around the border and in old settled valleys, leaving 
an area of wilderness of between 7,000 to 8,000 square 
miles. In the interior are numerous small clearings 
amounting to considerable in the aggregate but, like 
the spots on the sun, small compared with the exist- 
ing wild fection. 

The wilderness may be divided into three general 
divisions which, collectively, entertain the great bulk 
of visitors, namely the Lake Placid and the Saranac 
and St. Regis waters of the northwest. The moun- 
tain region of Essex County which includes Eliza- 
bethtown and Keene Valley A^th entrance at West- 
port ; and the Blue IMountain, Raquette and Long 



?^° -*^ / AU sab; f I,. .^ V -^a, 
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c 



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RAILROAD AND STAGE ROUTES. 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 5 

La'ie waters of Hamilton County in the southwest. 
Each section while possessing something of the char- 
acteristics of the others, has its own special attractions, 
a::d while connected by natural highways over which 
the nomad often goes, still to a considerable extent, 
each preserves its own individuality, and is complete 
iu: 1 sufficient unto itself. Smaller but notable are 
Childwold, Gale and Tupper Lake sections in St. 
La.vrence county and Fulton Chain and Beaver River 
in Herkimer county. 

Essex county is the most picturesque in high moun- 
tains and wild lakes, and is visited more than any 
other section by those who seek to delight the eye 
with beautiful scenes. The West is wildest in its 
tangle of woven lakes and streams that duplicate each 
other over and over again throughout its broad ex- 
panse. The North is the oldest, the best known and 
visited and is also the most fashionable. The South 
is the tamest and of least interest and enterprise. 

A peculiarity of the Adirondack region is its freedom 
from rough or vicious characters. Evil finds nothing 
congenial in its bright skies and pure atmosphere. 
Conventionalities that obtain at other resorts are not 
held binding here. The fact of actual presence is ac- 
cepted as guaranty of the possession of those mutual 
sympathies and qualifications which here, at least, 
make the whole world kin. Ladies travel without 
male escort from one end of the wilderness to the 
other, indeed, it is no uncommon thing for parties to 
make the tour of the woods, accompanied only by the 




6 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

necessary complement of guide to furnish motive 
power, spending day after day in their boat, and each 
night reaching one step farther in the extended sys- 
tern of hotels. 

Full dress is seldom seen, even at the most fashion- 
able resorts, and is exceeded in absurdity only by the 
conventional stage trapper, who occa- 
sionally bursts upon the astonished wild- 
erness in fringed buckskin, and is marked 
at once as a "fresh." Your right to 
enter the best society will not be ques 
tioned because of dress. Clothing ordi- 
narily worn is sufficient for all occasions, 
with perhaps the addition of a soft felt 
hat and roomy walking shoes or boots for boat or 
tramp. Camp and Sporting Outfit, clothing, supplies, 
etc., are given in a special chapter, with various sug- 
gestions. 

Hunting is standard sport here and the great at- 
traction to a majority of Adirondack visitors. Game 
of the smaller variety such as partridges, squirrels, 
etc., can be found in the woods almost anywhere. 
Deer have increased in numbers within the past few 
years under the provisions of the law prohibiting 
their indiscriminate slaughter w^hich the resident, from 
guide to hotel keeper, has learned was to his interest 
to see enforced. To the credit of the clubs, that get 
little but maledictions from the unattached sportsman 
generally for "fencing in " their land, be it said that 
these reservations under regulations which are held 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



binding on member and invited guest alike, are pro- 
lific nurseries for game that overflows into the sur- 
rounding forests and from which the casual sports- 
man derives unacknowledged benefit. The visitor 
should be lenient. Even the most bloated millionaire- 
-ilub-member in existence has rights on this earth 
.vhich are entitled to thoughtful consideration. 

Trout are to be found in most Adirondack streams, 
generally in proportion to the whipping they get al- 
though the fish seem to thrive in some sections better 

than in others, 
while a careful 
observance o f 
the law and 
judicious re- 
stocking of 
streams has 
made certain 
sections notable 
above others to 
lovers of the 
gentle art. 
Trout, their habits and peculiarities, with sug- 
gestions as to outfit, fishing, etc. , is treated at length 
in a special chapter by A. N. Cheney, of Glens Falls, a 
recognized authority in the matter whereof he speaks, 
^t gives, in readable shape, more solid information of 
use to the fisherman than a whole library of ordinary 
fishing romances of the day, with their sensations, 
impressions, tingles, thrills and frills. 




g THE ADIRONDACKS. 

In the net-work of ways and their multitude o. 
.ranches traversing the wilderness -n W ^ P- 
aress may not be. A comprehensive glance wi 1 help 
fn acqSg necessary details. Information ga hered 
from all available sources, has been arranged ,n the 
foUowdng pages, on a carefully considered system 
Here is fhe'ufy. As a whole the ways -to ^e -Id ^ 
nessare considered under the head of Gateways. 
Tsee tndex ) Following, each gateway is given sepa- 
ratd; with lines leading to particular centres, with 
distances and fares to points named. 

Expensescannotbe fairly estimated, varying wide > 
as they do with the habits and reqmrements of dif- 
ferent individuals. If you go in channels having 
public conveyances, traveling expenses tnay be fairly 
determined by referring to fares, etc., found under 
their appropriate heading. If you go ou side the 
public ifnes of travel you must have special convey- 
ance If you travel by boat, or go into camp, you 
will require the service of a guide. 

Places of entertainment are scattered throughou^ 
the wilderness, ranging from the well appomted bote* 
to the log house of the interior and open canips where 

different houses range from one to four dollars a day 
andupwardaccordingto accommodations and service^ 
Ordinarily the rates are very reasonable fo"ta"dard 
accommodations, but you must not expect all the 
modern conveniences at a dollar a day. They can be 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 




mk^ 






iad at many of the hotels, but it costs money to pro- 
vide them and the visitor must pay for it. When a 
liotel advertises board at so much "and upward" it 
means "and u p- 



ward." Particulars 
concerning hotels, 
including price for 
T3oard, accommoda- 
tions, etc., will be 
^ven in connection 
with the section 
^'here such hotels 
are located, unless for some reason particulars do not 
Teach me in time for the annual revision. For names 
of hotels see special index. 

Guides ordinarily receive $3 per day, furnishing 
boat and necessary cooking and table utensils. In 
camp you furnish the supplies, the guide cooks and 
does other necessary camp work. He rows and 
"backs" the boat over the carries where there are 
Tio other means provided ; (at carries where horses 
are kept the employer is expected to pay for trans- 
portation). One guide and boat is ordinarily suffi- 
cient for two persons in traveling, but for independ- 
ence in fishing and hunting each sportsman should 
bave his individual guide. If you employ a guide for 
any service at any hotel you are charged for his 
' ' keep " at one-half to two-thirds regular rates. 
There are two classes of guides, known respectively 
as "hotel " and " independent." The former are en- 



XO THK ADIRONDACKS. 

gaged for the season by hotel proprietors, who relet 
them to parties ; the latter must be dealt with per- 
sonally. There are good men in ^t^i3^^ 
both classes, the nature of the f^^^^^Mll 
surroundings usually determin- i^^^j^pl^M, 
ing to which class they shall be- ^^^^K© 
long, experience only can deter- -mfj'^^^^rl^ 
mine their suitability for your ^^^^S^K 
peculiar wants. As a class they ^^^^^fl^g 
kre a fine set of men. The best ^^^SS ^^^ 
r^uides are often engaged for a 
' year in advance, as some sportsmen would as soon 
khink of going without his gun as without his favorite 
guide. 

If you go into camp and can afford the expense, 
take a trained cook along. Guides can as a rule, pre- 
pare an acceptable forest meal, and some are very 
skillful in that line, but the very quahties which con- 
tribute to make the successful guide— " the mighty 
hunter "—often renders him indifferent to the quality 
of his food, and incapable of understanding the crav- 
ings of a delicate appetite. At all events, carry a 
cook book. Camp fare is apt to become monotonous 
after a time, and although familiar with a hundred 
dishes, when brought face to face with the appalling 
necessity of preparing a straight meal, your mind be- 
comes a blank and you drop weakly back to the same 
old stew of yesterday— and the day before— and life 
becomes a burden. You are presumably out for pleas- 
ure do not. therefore, make severe labor of it. Have 



I 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 




paid help sufficient to do camp work, if, at any time, 
inclination tempt you to watch the zenith from some 
mossy vantage ground, or to drift 
idly among the still waters, absorb- "^n 

ing with newly awakened instincts ^;>-'""" -^ ii^ 
the subtle lessons 
taught by nature. 
The glor i o u s 1 y 
healthful air of 
the wilderness 
will unquestion- 
ably give new life 
and vigor, but it 
labors at a disadvantage, if your bed of boughs afford 
no rest and sleep comes only with complete exhaus- 
tion, as often happens in the first few nights in camp. 
At such times the early morning finds you pitably 
weak and languid instead of refreshed and ready to 
move simply because motion is a relief to the poor 
bruised body and aching joints. "Roughing it" is 
grand in theory, and sounds well in after history, but 
is bad in practice and often impedes if it does not en- 
tirely defeat the object for which it is undertaken. 

Parties have "done" the Adirondacks with map, 
book and compass, without the aid of a regular guide ; 
but the way is full of hardships for such that may be 
avoided by those accustomed to the country, while if 
comfort, distance, and time lost in out-of-the-vray 
places are taken into consideration such a course i:; 
attended with but little economy. 




12 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

Bear in mind that this book is designed to give its 
readers in convenient shape information concerning 
points and places, roads and regions that can be 
visltei over public ways ; matters of general interest 
to tli3 ninety-and-nine, with hints and suggestions of 
the deeper mysteries of camp and trail to the hun- 
dredth one, that may pilot him to points where the 
intelligent guide becomes a necessity^ and beyond 
- - , which, direc- 

-.i.- \r^ tion in book 
form would 
confuse, rathei 
than instruct. 
For the sake 
of clearness, 
therefore, I have omitted description of the multitude 
of smaller ponds, streams and trails which duplicate 
each other in many places, which no one should at- 
teiTpt to follow without an experienced guide. To 
th )se vrho would have a comprehensive idea of the 
v]i Is region, it is hoped the map, designed to supple- 
ment the information contained herein, will be a 
welcome companion until it ean be safely laid aside 
for the more specific knowledge of the guide, whose 
otTice neither book nor rnap can ever fill. 

A large portion of the great Adirondack region has 
never been surveyed with chain and rod, but the 
rapid development of portions and the growing im- 
portance of the whole as a summer resort seem to call 
for a map made specially to meet the requirements 
of tourist and sportsman. 



1 

I 



THK ADIRONDACKS. I3 

In the construction of this map all available sources 
of information have been brought into requisition. 
Important points outside the wilderness proper were 
determined in accordance with official surveys, and 
connected with the mountains of the interior, whose 
principal peaks were accurately located b}^ triangula- 
tion made expressly for this work. Access was had 
to important surveys made under State patronage and 
by private parties. In addition to this absolutely reli- 
able material, drawings on an extended scale of small 
sections, covering in the aggregate the entire region, 
were sent in duplicate to men familiar with the va- 
rious localities for correction, and were made as full 
and complete as possible — careful attention being 
given to proportion and distance — with wild trails, 
carries, ponds and streams. Reduced to an uniform 
scale by photography, the result, it is believed, ap- 
proaches perfection as nearly as can be, short of 
actual trigonometrical survey. It gives altitudes, the 
location of all hotels and principal camps, with roads 
leading thereto ; shows distance in figures on roads, 
trails and streams, and indicates also the nature of 
the latter in important instances. All roads within 
its limits are carefully laid down, the leading ones 
distinguished from those less important by being in 
solid black line, and indicating by their number or 
absence, the cultivated or wilderness nature of that 
region. The map was completed in 1879 and is issued 
annually revised and corrected to date to keep pace 
with changes of road and trail, camp and hotel in this 
rapidly changing section. 



M 



CHAPTER IL 
Outfit, Camp, Supplies, Suggestions, Etc. 

AKE out a complete list of articles that are con- 
sidered necessary or desirable in the proposed 
trip, each member for himself, in advgince of the time 
of departure, then in committee of the whole decide 
on what is really necessary or suitable, taking into 
consideration the nature of the trip and means of 
reaching the appointed camping ground. If it be 
not over-difficult of access, carry anything which 
will contribute to your reasonable comfort, in the 
way of blankets, clothing, etc. 

For camp outfit and woods life the following is 
recommended. A complete change of underclothing ; 
two pairs of serviceable socks, but slightly heavier 
than you habitually wear at the season (soft wool is 
preferable) ; pair colored flannel shirts with wide col- 
lars, confined at the throat by a substantial silk hand- 
kerchief. (If the unaccustomed material chafes the 
neck the shirts may be put on outside the garment 
ordinarily worn in which case linen collars must not 
be forgotten.) The trowsers and vest should be of 
some strong woolen goods, the coat the same, cut 
rather short and to button close up to the neck. Have 
pockets, ample and numerous, with covers ; you will 
find use for them. Wear a soft felt hat with a 
reasonably wide brim. (By grasping it in a manner 
easily learned the rim forms a convenient drinking 
cup.) Do not commit the too common error of pro- 
curing new shoes or boots for the occasion. A pair 
of laced shoes, roomy, but not too loose, well broken 
to the foot, with broad soles and rather low heels, is 
best. The uppers should be of rather light grained 



THE ADIRONDACKS. I 5 

kip or water-proof leather. Have leatlier or canvas 
leggings, strapped under the instep and buttoning, or 
to lace at the side well up toward the knee. Boots 
may be used in place of shoes and leggings, if pre- 
ferred, but the evidence is largely in favor of the shoe. 
It is well to have a duplicate pair for alternates in 

w e t weather, 










xT-^*' 






A POSSIBILITY. 



Rubber boots, 
although con- 
venient at 
times, are not 
suitable for 
general wear 
or for travel- 
ing. A light 
overcoat will 
be found very 
comfortable at 
times. Among 
the necessaries 
should be included rubber coat and overalls for use in 
rainy weather, for the best fishing is often found under 
dripping clouds. Have also a light rubber blanket 
to throw over the knees and feet when in boat, or 
to protect you, in sleeping, from moisture below or 
above. For lounging in camp take a pair of common 
•canvas slippers and sew on them cloth tops to come 
up around the ankle, and tie outside the trowsers. 
For sleeping at night — if you have moral courage 
sufficient to stand before your fellows in such a gear — 
a single garment of any suitable material — (calico if 
you like) — combining shirt, drawers and stockings 
without opening save the necessary one of entrance 
at the top, to button close about the neck, will be 
found wonderfully comforting while wandering ants 
and inquisitive though harmless bugs may be mak- 
ing life miserable for those with only the ordinary 



i6 



HE ADIRONDACKS. 



garments. A further addition may be made in shape 
of a friar's hood attached at back of neck. A light 
cloth or silk cap will be found comfortable for night 
use if you don't take kindly to the above. 

Ladies' outfit contemplates a su^jc l in which I 
would not presume to dictate ; I have learned better. 
I humbly submit, however, that it is your first duty 
to make yourself as attractive as possible, subject only 
to the requirements of place and season. I would 
suggest that, whatever may be allowable in the way 
of '* fine " dressing, it is not con- 
sidered necessary, or even in 
good taste. Often the sweetest 
girls that ever brightened the 
wilderness with their presence 
reign queens of the evening in 
the same bewitching costume in 
which they boated and climbed 
the mountains in the early morn- 
ing. Consult some lady friend 
who has spent a season in the 
woods as to what constitutes a 
suitable outfit. In absence of other infor- 
mation the following is suggested for boat, 
camp and tramp. Underclothing, such as 
experience has shown best suited to the sea- 
son and your individual comfort, giving 
fine flannel the preference in all but the very warmest 
weather. Underskirts should generally be of dark 
flannel, although, if much walking is to be done, one 
of dark cotton will be found an agreeable substitute 
as less clinging than woolen. A becoming dress may 
be made of blue or gray flannel or ladies' cloth. It 
may be pleated back and front, gathered at the 
waist, or fitting loosely to the form, but should in any 
case allow perfect freedom in the use of the arms. 
The skirt should be not overfull, and cut a finger 




THE ADIRONDACKS. I 7 

shorter than the ordnary walking dress. Trim but 
little, in shades of same color as body ; a cord at 
wrist, collar and waist-band, with a knot of ribbon 
or a wild flower at the throat, is sufficient. A dainty 
bit of ruffling or old lace about the neck transforms 
the morning into an evening toilet. Wear a soft felt 
hat ^^•ith wide brim ; trim with forest leaves. Wear 
a lady's hat, if they differ from a mean's. Don't 
ape masculinity in dress. The average Adirondack 
sportsman does not admire it, although, if confronted 
by the horrid fact he is often too much of a gentle- 
man to tell the truth. Wear dark serviceable hose 
and substantial roomy Balmoral boots, with broad 
soles and low, broad heels. Wear Lisle thread, cotton 
or doeskin gloves. They may be made with long 
wristlets to button or tie outside the dress sleeve, 
to guard against possible attack of black fly or mos- 
quito. A chatelaine belt and pocket, with tin drink- 
ing cup, etc. , is convenient. A light sun umbrella of 
the walking-stick pattern is a comfort in rain or shine. 
A shawl will often be found acceptable of an evening 
following the warmest of days. Carry a rubber or 
waterproof circular with hood, a pair of light rubber 
overshoes and a piece of light rubber cloth to throw 
over the lap and feet if surprised in a boat by one of 
those fast-moving Adirondack showers. 

In rough weather sit or lie low in the boat ; never, 
at such times, grasp the sides to support yourself. A 
skillful boatman will manage in safety one of those 
light Adirondack shells in the roughest of water, if 
allowed entire control of boat and load. Go fearlessly 
into the woods. It is stated on the highest authority 
that not a noxious plant or venomous serpent exists 
in the Adirondacks. 

In selecting a camping place during warm weather, 
choose an island or an exposed point free from under- 
brush where the wind will, to a great extent, free you 



i8 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



from the mosquito and fiy. In cool weather, it is 
needless to say, choose the thicket ; in either case, 
remember that a cold spring or brook and material 
for the camp-fire conveniently near adds very much 
to your comfort. A bark or bough camp will do in 
absence of anything better, but is nothing like as 
comfortable or convenient as a tent. An "A" tent, 
seven by eight feet on the ground, affords comfort- 
able sleeping room for four, and on occasion five or even 
six. A rope, passing through lengthwise at the top 
and out at the ends, takes the place 'of ridgepole, 
and may be fastened to convenient trees or over 
crotched sticks cut the proper height, and tied to 

stakes. The ma- 
terial should be 
of cotton (water 
and m i 1 d e w" - 
proof), and com- 
plete, need not 
weigh more than 
nine to twelve 
poun ds. In 
pitching the 
tent, if on a side 
hill, dig a ■" A " 
shaped trench to 
lead running wa- 
ter on either 
side ; if on the level, ditch all around. A wall tent 
is better than a circular or an " A " tent. If a long 
stay is anticipated, it pays to build log sides on which 
to mount the tent, and cover with a "fly " to insure 
certain protection from rain. A sheet-iron camp- 
stove can be procured of the dealers, or may be easily 
made to answer every purpose, and pays if your stay 
in one place be long enough to warrant the trouble of 
transportation. In niaKing your bed of boughs, re- 




THE ADIRONDACKS. I9 

member that solid wood, if fitted to the form, is as 
comfortable as a bed of down. Apply the fact by 
burrowing or hollowing out cavities to fit the project- 
ing points of hip and shoulder. Cover the boughs 
with a rubber blanket, in addition to which each mem- 
ber of the party should have a pair of heavy woolen 
blankets. A small bag, to be filled with leaves or 
moss is an improvement on a pair of boots when used 
as a pillow, but not all that nature craves ; and at 
the risk of exciting ridicule — from idiots — I am free 
to recommend a small, well-filled feather pillow. It 
pays for itself in a single night's use. A few yards 
of mosquito netting drawn across the front of the 
tent after a good smudge is a luxury which declares 
a big diurnal dividend. For long, forced marches, a 
hammock made of cotton duck with a cover of the 
same, but somewhat shorter, buttoned over at each 
side, and forming a sort of pocket, is, with the addi- 
tion of rubber blanket, bed and tent combined. A 
little ingenuity will suggest manner of arranging 
hoops over the face to cover with canvass or mosquito 
netting, as circumstances may require. 

Don't expect your guide to double 
carries habitually, rather reduce your 
baggage or get extra packmen for its 
transportation — or carry a part of the 
" duffle" yourself. 

A champaigne basket, covered with 
waterproof cloth and provided with 
shoulder loops for carrying, makes an 
admirable pack "basket. A rubber, or 
waterproof bag, or an ordinary two- 
bushel grain bag, with carrying loops 
of webbing, may be used for extra cloth- 
ing, blankets, etc. Let your load rest well down on 
the back to carry. 

The camp kit may consist of a long-handled frying 




20 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

pan, a deep stew pan with a cover, a nest of three or 
four covered tin pails, for water, tea, coffee, etc. , pint 
tin cups, tin plates, a wire toaster of the gridiron pat- 
tern, a ladle or large iron spoon, table and teaspoons, 
knives and forks, and last but not least, soap, dish 
cloths and towels. 

Carry a pocket compass with you at all times — the 
best woodsmen are often temporarily at fault. An 
ordinary lantern for camp vise, candles, matches (a few 
wind-proof and water-proof), towels, tooth 'brush, 
comb, pocket mirror, pans, needles and thread, a few 
extra buttons to match those worn, oil or tallow for 
your boots, stamped envelopes, light hunting knife in 
sheath, light axe in sheath. Carry a supply of light 
reading of the convenient Franklin Square or Lake- 
side pattern. Take no large boxes with sharp corners, 
nor any article too heavy or unwieldy for one man to 
handle. 

Camp supplies may be had from hotels generally, 
but many prefer to carry their own. Veterans need 
no advice, but to the novice the following suggestions 
are made. First, consult your cook book. See what 
is needed in the preparation of proposed dishes and 
provide accordingly. The following list contains the 
staple articles : Wheat, Graham flour, corn, and 
oat meal, beans, Boston and soda crackers, lemon 
biscuit, baking powder, self-raising flour, maple sugar, 
loaf sugar, tea, coffee, condensed milk, bottled horse- 
radish, mustard, vinegar, pepper and salt in boxes 
with perforated covers, dried fruit, canned fruit, but- 
ter (packed in salt and enclosed in hermetically sealed 
cans, which can be anchored in spring holes or under 
cold running water.) Bacon is extremely nice when 
sweet, as is also pork, unpoetical but palatable, and 
on occasion taking place of butter and all the 
seasonings. Dried beef is an important item ; 
" jerked venison," one of the best things imaginable 



THE ADIROXDACKS. 21 

to carry when setting out for a tramp ; (ask your guide 
to show you how it is prepared.) For relishes — 
shades of mighty trout and speckled beauties forgive 
us— take a box of red herring. Bermuda onions fill 
an aching void which nothing else can fill. Canned 
beef, pork and beans, corn, tomatoes, condensed soup, 
etc. , may be added. Fresh vegetables and potatoes 
can be had from the hotels. Carry no liquor ; if wet 
and cold, Jamaica ginger has all the heating proper- 
ties of whisky ; while strong black coffee is a better 
stimulant, with none of the evil ef- 
fects following. 

The Medicine Chest need not be 
extensive. It should, however, con- 
tain cathartic pills and a cholera 
medicine of some kind ; a small 
bottle of collodion (composed of 
equal parts of alcohol and either, 
with gun-cot con added) about the 
consistency of heavy varnish ; (applied to burns and 
small wounds, this collodion forms an artificial skin, 
impervious alike to air and water) ; ammonia (to allay 
irritation arising from bites of insects) ; cold cream or 
glycerine (for chapped face or hands) ; court-plaster, 
seidlitz powders, ointment and adhesive plasters, lint 
and bandages, to use in case of emergency. To stop 
the flow of blood from wounds, bind on equal parts 
of flour and common salt ; for burns, apply Avheat 
flour or collodion. 

Insect preparation maybe procured of the drug- 
gist, or compounded by yourself. The mo.st conven- 
ient, and effective perhaps as any, is six parts of mut- 
ton tallow to one of oil of pennyroyal, with a little 
camphor added. Tar ointment in the proportion of 
two ounces of sweet oil and one of oil of tar is good. 
("A coating of the grease from ham rinds, well 
rubbed on, is the best yet known," says George K. 




22 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



Holmes, of Great Barrington, Mass.) Anoint ex- 
posed portions of the person with any of the above, 
then stand back and mark the frenzy of the baffled 
punkey. 

Do not rely on what books tell you about sporting 
otitfit. If you know nothing about the subject place 
yourself under the direction of some one who does, and 
trust him until you can judge for yourself. The most 
enticing of fancy flies in the hands of a greenhorn 
will not yield much sport — except to outsiders — and 
the grandest achievement in modern firearms re- 
quires some 
skill in using. 
If you have the 
requisite skill, 
carry a rifle ; if 
not, a fowling- 
piece is better. 
For light game, 
birds, etc., 
there is per- 
haps no more 
convenient o r 
serviceable arm 
to carry into 

camp than the "pocket" rifle, manufactured by the 
J. Stevens Arms and Tool Company of Chicopee 
Falls, Mass. A 12 to 15-inch barrel, 32-calibre, is 
recommended. The weight is less than three pounds. 
A shot-gun barrel is also made to fit the same frame, 
so that either may be used at will. 

Are you artistic ? Carry a camera of the Kodak 
pattern or with small plate. A plate large enough to 
make a lantern slide yields a larger perdentage of com- 
fort compared with trouble than any other size made. 




CHAPTER III. 

Lake Champlain and the Eastern Border 
Resorts 

SAMUEL de champlain, a Frenchman, was the 
first white man known to have seen the Adiron- 
dacks when, in 1609, he accompanied a band of Indians 
from the St. Lawrence on an expedition against their 
southern enemies, and as graphically told by the ad- 
venturer himself "encountered a war party of the 
Iroquois on the 29th of the month, about ten o'clock 
at night, at the point of a cape which puts out into the 
lake on the west side." A battle ensued in which 
Champlain astonished the enemy and proved the su- 
periority of fire-arms over savage spear and arrow. 
This happened the same year that Hendrick Hudson 
sailed up the river that now bears his name, and 
eleven years before the pilgrims landed on Plymouth 
Rock. Champlain wrote an account of the affair, call- 
ing the sheet of water explored by his own name — 
Lake Champlain. It may be worthy of note that 
exactly two centuries after Champlain' s passage in a 
canoe, and one year after Fulton's steamboat went up 
the Hudson, theiirst steamboat was launched on Lake 
Champlain. 

Liake Cbamplain is very like a long, slim radish 
in shape, with long roots and outbranching river 
fibers. Whitehall is at the little (south) end of the 
radish ; at Burlington it is quite a respectable vege- 
table ; then come blotches of rock and islands, and 
beyond that, the leaves, spreading out on either side 
and toward the North overlapping the Canada line. 

On the east is Vermont, sweeping away in a broad. 



24 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

cultivated plain that gradually ascends to the ridges 
of the Green Mountains. Along the southern and 
central portion of the lalce the rocky, western shores 
come abruptly to the water's edge. Backward, rising- 
ridge on ridge, the highest, misty with distance, are 
the Adirondack mountains. Here and there are little 

bits of cultivated 



ouse'sPoinw 



fllATTSBUR^ 
BLUFf PTf 

PORT KENT* 



V ESTPORTq 

PORTMtNR>| 
rFREOERlCI' 
CROV»M POlRt 
TlCONDEf 



JAQUAM 
^STALBANS 9. 



^oBURUHBTON 



|5>CE0AR BEACH 



2VER6ENNES 



3CR0WH rT RUINS 



.LARRABEES POW 



land and breaks in 
the mountains that 
are ,the gateways to 
the wilderness. Far- 
ther north the moun- 
tains fall away from 
the lake and a level, 
well-cultivated coun- 
try presents itself. 

The distance from 
Whitehall to Fort 
Montgomery , accord- 
ing to the United 
States coast survey, 
is 107 >( miles. Its 
greatest width, 
which is near the 
outlet of Ausable 
river, is 1213 miles. 
M e a s u r i n g north 
into Missisquoi bay 
on the east side, 
(which extends down 
into Canada, and is 
separated from the 



MAP OF LAKE CHAMPLAIN 

Showing Steamboat Route. 

outlet by Alburgh Tongue), the extreme length or 
the lake is about 118 miles. Its elevation above tide 
is 99 feet. Its greatest depth (at a point 1}^ miles 
southeast of Essex landing) 399 feet. 

The principal islands are near the north end. The 
two largest are known respectively as North and South 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 2$ 

Hero, and collectively as Grand Isle, the two fonning 
a county of Vermont. 

WMteliall, at the head of Lake Champlain, is 
219 miles north of New York, and 78 from Albany.. 




DISTANCES 

IN MILES 

WHITEHALL 



BOSTON 191 



|jERSEYCJTY225ci<5NEWY0RK 220 

e 
^ 



Tlie "D. & H." Bailroad extending along the 
west shore of Lake Champlain, is a link in the air line 
between New York and Montreal, and the main artery^ 
< f travel between the two great cities At various 
l^oints, rail or stage routes diverge, leading into the 
udlderness. 

Steamboats, in which the traveling public may 
have an interest, belong to the Champlain Transporta- 
tion Company of which Captain George Rushlow is 
General Manager, with office at Burlington, Vt. 

Steamer Vermont, Captain R. Arbuckle, is a 
graceful vessel, designed specially for pleasure travel. 
It leaves Plattsburgat 7 a. m., touches at intermediate 
landings and reaches Fort Ticonderoga about noon,. 



M 




THE ADIRONDACKS. 27 

connecting there with trains for the south and for the 
steamer on Lake George. Returning over the same 
route reaches Plattsburgh about 7 p. m. (See map 
page 24.) Steamboat and railroad tickets are inter- 
changeable between Ticonderoga and Plattsburgh. 

Steamer Chateaugay, Captain Baldwin, leaves 
Westport at 7 a. m. daily, Sundays excepted, and 
touching at points (see map), reaches North Hero at 
12:15 ; returning, touches as above, and arrives at 
Westport 7 p. M. 

Fort Ticonderoga" is 24 miles from Whitehall 
on a bold promontory between the outlet of Lake 
George and the waters of Lake Champlain. Here 
were enacted the principal events in the pla}- of the 
Lake, Avhere savage tribes contended for the country 
on either hand, and three great nations struggled for 
the prize of a continent. Here precious blood flowed 
like water for it was the key to the ' ' gate of the coun- 
try," and by its position elected to become historic 
ground. The name is the composite of over a dozen 
different attempts to convey in English the Indian 
sound of Tienderoga, Cheonderoga, or as we have it 
now — " Ticonderoga" — meaning the coming together 
or meeting of waters. 

The old battery on the bluff is said to have been the 
original Carillor built by the French in 1755. Back 
on the higher grov.-nd are the barrack walls, trenches, 
two bastions, and the best preserved portion of the 
ruins — a bomb-proofroom, which some authorities say 
was the magazine, while others contend that it was the 
humble but equally necessary bakery. On the east, 
by th«». side of the road, is the old fort well. Leading 
from fhe southeast comer of the parade toward this,. 



*Bn passant. For more extended description, and histori- 
cal matter see "Lake George & Lake Champlain," similar 
to this volume in price and size, and containing a large map 
of the lakes. 



28 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



is the covered way, through which Ethan Allen went 

in the gray of the morning, in 1775. On the west is 

Mount Defiance. Between it and the fort the outlet 

of Lake George enters Lake Champlain. At the 

southeast, the lake is 

narrowed down by .><;=^^^i?iBONDE]^?^> 

the near approach y^^mmSimil^ 

of Mount Inde ' y:^^i^^,,Mtl!llll//A^^ 

p enden c< 

Avhich was 

also forti- 

iied while 

St. Claire 
held com- 

m a n d ; 

between 

the two 

points 

ran the 

chain, or 

floating, 

bridge. 

The lake 

Tiere turns 

toward the 

north, thus\ 

ing three sides of 

the promontory. 

Hotel accommodations may be found in the old 

Fort Ticonderoga Hotel in the locust grove east cf 

the ruins, at a moderate price. The Burleigh House 

at the village of Ticonderoga, two miles west on the 

road to Lake George, is a house with modern im- 

provem.ents and excellent fare. From Ticonderoga 

north the traveler can go by steamer leaving about 

1:30 p. M., and touching at lake ports or by train along 

the west shore, reaching Plattsburgh at night. 




THE ADIRONDACKS. 29 

Cro'wn Point is 1 1 miles north of Ticonderoga. 
Here are the furnaces of the Crown Point Iron Com- 
pany, and the terminus of a 
narrow-gauge railway, which 
extends back 13 miles to iron 
mines at Hammondville, 
1,300 feet above the lake. 

Tbe Lake House is on a 
point north of the steamboat 
landing. M. Gilligan, propri- 
etor. Rates, $2 per day ; $8 to 
$6 per week. Free convey- 
ance to boats and trains. 
There are excellent roads for riding or driving and 
fine lishing, either in the lake or up the willowy creek 
that enters near by — delightful for rowing and a fa- 
vorite haunt of the voracious pickerel. The hotel 
sets a most wholesome table and is the hotel to be 
preferred here. 

Cro"WTi Point Ruins are six miles north of Crown 
Point landing. The lake is here narrowed down by 




APPROACHING CROWN POINT RUINS FROM THE SOUTH. 

I Crown Point Light House ; 2 Port Henry ; 3 Chimney Point. 

the land extending from the west on which the ruins 
stand, its easternmost point marked by a stone light- 
house. Chimney Point approaches from the east side. 
Beyond the light-house, at the narrowest place in the 
passage, are the scarcely visible remains of Fort St. 
Frederick, built by the French in 1731. Crown Point 



V 



'^^.- 

""'.£. 




^"^^F\ 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 3I 

Fort standing over toward the west was commenced 
by Amherst in 1759, and completed at an expense of 
over ten million dollars. The extensive earth-works, 
and the walls of the barracks, still in a good state of 
preservation, 
indicate the 
strength and 
extent of the 
fortification— 
from which, 
however, n o 
gun was ever 
fired at a-n 
a p proaching 
foe. Dr. Bix- 
by designates 
the shores of 
the peninsula 
west of the 
ruins as ,the 
probable site 
of C h a m- 
plain's battle 
with the Iro- 
quois in 1609. 

Fort Frederick (landing) is just north of the 
light-house. A board walk extends from the dock 
back to the ruins. Refreshment rooms, a public pa- 
vilion, etc. , have been built here by the Champlain 
Transportation Company, for accommodation and en- 
tertainment of excursion parties. 

Port Henry, two miles northwest of Crown Point 
Ruins, is exceedingly picturesque; with; a number of 
elegant private residences, occupied By the iron mag- 
nates of that section. The Lake Champlaih and Mo- 
riah R.- R. is seven miles-- long, extending from Port 
Henry to the ore beds at Mineyille, 1,300 feet above. 




Mm 




THE ADIRONDACKS. 



33 



The grade at one point is 256I.2 feet to the mile. The 
average is 211 feet. It contains three " Y's," where 
the nature of the ascent renders a curve impracti- 
cable. Mineville is the centre of the mining opera- 
tions of the region, and is a wonderful revelation to 
the novice in mining scenes. 

The Chever Ore Bed is two miles north of Port 
Henry, near the lake shore. 

The Y. M. C. A. of Albany has a *mall camp on 
No-Man's Island about a mile south of the Barber 
Point Light House — the summer rendezvous of a 
large number of Association men and boys, who 
" rough it " in the most approved style under the su- 
pervision ©f the General Secretary. They are a jolly 
lot, and welcome visitors with right good will. 

"Westport is a pretty little village, on a deep bay, 

setting into the 
western shore, 50 
mile s north of 
Whitehall. It is the 
natural gateway 
into the mountains 
via Elizabethtown 
and Keene Valley 
(see index), and 
possesses a 1 1 r a c - 
tions of its own that 
recommend it 
strongly to the 
summer visitor. 

Tlie Westport 
Inn stands on the 
brow of an ab- 
rupt eminence a hundred feet above the lake and 
overlooks a tennis lawn shaded by fine elms, the 
picturesque steamboat landing, the great sweeping 
amphitheatre of hillside leading away to right and 




THE ADIRONDACKS. 



35 




left, the circling shore of the bay and the beautiful 
chain of the Green Mountains across in Vermont. 
The house has broad piazzas and is neat and well 
furnished from basement to belvedere. It has cozy 
parlors and dining-room, with large open fire-places. 
The table is superior and the service most efficient. 
There are bath rooms and perfect drainage. Water 
comes from a wonderful mountain spring 500 feet 

^__ above the 

lake. A 
number of 
de t a c h e d 
cottages 
add to the 
attractions, 
furnishing 
altoget her 
ace o m m o- 
dations for 
150 guests. A livery stable under the patronage of 
the house in combination with picturesque drives of- 
fer amusement in variety. If this is not enough, good 
boating and fishing facilities and bathing places with 
fine bottom, and convenient bath houses, are here. 
A circulating library, post-office and telegraph office 
are near by. Mrs. O. C. Daniell. manager. See page 
247 for rates. 

The Richards House, open all the year, has a local 
patronage. J. D. Hanks, proprietor. "The Westport," 
at the Railroad Station, open the year round. George 
Howe, Jr., proprietor. This house must not be con- 
founded with " The Westport Inn " referred to above. 
The "Water Lily," a small propeller, runs from 
Westport to Vergennes daily, on arrival of the steamer 
Vermont from the south, returning in the morning to 
connect with the south bound boat. The water Lily 
is notable among steamboats as having a woman at 



36 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

the wheel, in the person of Mrs. Captain Daniels, 
who is said to be the first and only regularly licensed 
woman pilot in the United States. 

Calamity Point is about two miles north of 
Westport. Here the steamer Champlain was wrecked 
in 1875 while running north on her regular night trip. 
The immediate cause of the disaster has never been 
explained, as the night was no more than ordinarily 
dark, but since that time, day or night, when running, 
the pilot-houses of the sister boats invariably contain 
two competent men. Captain Rushlow, now general 
manager, was then in command of the Champlain, 
and it was due to his cool self-possession that no panic 
ensued to lead to loss of life. 



-"-^^ 



SPLIT ROCK FROM THE NORTH. 

I Grand View Mt., Vt.; 2 Split Rock Light; 3 Split Rock. 

Split Rock Mountain extends along the west 
shore, terminating in a sharp point 8 miles north of 
Westport. Barn Rock (a corruption probably of Bar- 
ren Rock) shows the upturned edges of strata lying at 
a sharp angle with the surface in a bold point enclos- 
ing a deep harbor. " The Palisades," a little way 
north, are grand perpendicular cliffs. Rock Harbor, 
a mile further north, shows an "effort," where Goth- 
am's one time Boss, Tweed, tried his hand at digging 
ore. Grog Harbor — a charming little cove despite 
ts name — is near the northern end of the mountain. 

Split Rock is at the northern termination «f the 

4^,d 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 37 

mountain bearing the same name. In the uncertain 
records of old Indian treaties, it is claimed that this 
rock marked the boundary line between the tribes of 
the St. Lawrence and those of the Mohawk Valley. 

Otter Creek enters the lake from the east some- 
thing over five miles north of Westport. This is the 
longest river in Vermont and is navigable to Vergen- 
nes whose spires may be seen some distance inland. 
Fort Cassin stood at the mouth of Otter Creek. Bits 
of the ruins are still visible. Within the creek a portion 
of the American squadron was fitted out in 1814, 
which, under Commodore McDonough defeated the 
British Commodore Downie, at Plattsburgh, in Sep- 
tember of that year. 

Vergennes is eight miles back from the lake as 
Otter Creek runs, although in an air line but little more 
than half that distance. It is one of the oldest cities 
in New England, chartered in 17S8. It is also the 
smallest incorporated city in the country. The city 
limits include an area of i i^fxii^ miles. 

Essex, a small village on the west shore, is 10 
miles north of Westport. The Boquet river empties 
into the lake four miles north of Es- 
sex landing. It is navigable for about 
a mile. It was a rendezvous of Bur- 
goyne's flotilla in the advance on 
Ticonderoga, in 1777, and in 181 2 was 
entered by British gunboats to work 
the destruction of the little village 
of Willsborough, a mile inland. 

Willsborougli Point, a low 

peninsula about four miles long by 

one wide, separates Willsborough 

Bay from the main lake. Railroad 

station is Willsborough, five miles distant at the 




south. 
The Four Brothers 



are near the middle of the 



38 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

lake, east of Willsborough Point. Here occurre«^ the 
running engagement between Benedict Arnold and 
Captain Pringle, in 1776, in which the English were 
victorious. Juniper Island is northeast of the 
Brothers with high, almost vertical walls, surmounted 
by a lighthouse. 

After leaving Essex Landing the boat passes out 
into the broadening lake, gradually nearing the Ver- 
mont side in the approach to Burlington. Back in- 
land are the two highest peaks of the Green Moun- 
tains — Mansfield, 4,360 feet above the tide, and 
Camel's Hump, the Leon Coiichajit of the French. 

Shelburne Farm, the summer place of Dr. W. Sew- 
ard Webb, is on the east shore. North extends Shel- 
burne peninsula terminating at Pottier's Point. 

Slielburne Harbor is east of Pottier's Point. 
Here are the shipyards of the Champlain Transporta- 
tion Company. It is worthy of note that but one year 
after Robert Fulton's steamboat was launched on the 
Hudson River a steamboat was launched at Burling- 
ton. It could run five miles an hour without heating 
the shaft ! 

La Plotte river empties into Shelburne Harbor, 
Its name is of Revolutionary origin. A party of In- 
dians left their canoes unguarded on the banks while 
making a raid on the scattered settlement beyond. 
They were driven back by the whites and took to 
their canoes for safety. But the canoes had been dis- 
covered and riddled with holes by some prying settlers 
who now proceeded to riddle the savages also. The 
Green Mountain Boys were very artistic in these 
little afi^airs. 

Rock Dunder is a promment object, as we near 
Burlington. It is a sharp cone 20 feet high, above 
water, believed by Winslow C. Watson, the historian, 
to be the famous , '■ Rock Regio " so frequently men- 
tioned m colonial records. 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 3^/ 

Burlin^on is a city of nearly 15,000 inhabitants, 
80 miles north of Whitehall. It is one of the largest 
lumber marts in the countr}^ standing fourth in the 
order of business. The firms represent a capital of 
$4,000,000. 150,000,000 feet of lumber are sold an- 
nually from the markets. Three railroads centre 
here — the Central Vermont, the Burlington & La- 
moille, and the Rutland & Burlington. 

Tlie Cbamplain Transportation Company 
has its general office here, Captam George Rushlow, 
general manager. Its steamers run to connect with 
the D. & H. trains on the west shore, and to Adiron- 
dack points. The Lake Champlain Yacht Club has 
an elegant club house a little way north of the steam- 
boat landing. 

The L'^ni versify of Vermont is located here, crown- 
ing the hill, on the western slope of which the prin- 
cipal part of the city lies. Among other public build- 
ings of interest are the Medical College, Billings Li- 
brary building, Vermont Episcopal Institute, St. Jo- 
seph's College, Park Gallery of Art, Fletcher Free 
Library, the Mary Fletcher Hospital, and the Young 
Men's Christian Association building. 

On the high land, back of the city, overlooking 
Wmooski Valley, is the Green Mountain Cemetery, 
where lies the body of Vermont's famous son, Ethan 
Allen. A monument of Barre granite, 50 feet in 
height, surmounted by a statue of Allen, marks the 
spot, and is a shrine often visited by admirers of the 
Hero of Ticonderoga. 

Hotels. Van Ness. American and Hotel Burling- 
ton are the best. 

Colcbester Poinc reaches out half way across the 
broad lake north of Burlington, and still further west 
are Colchester reef and light-house —a blood-red. light 
marking the outermost rock at night. 

Scliuyler Island is a large cultivated island h-ing 



40 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



near the \vest shore. Trembleau Mountain is beyond, 
terminating at Trembleau Point. 

Hotel Douglas is in the deepest curve of Corlear 
Bay, west of Schuyler Island, at the south of Trem- 
bleau Mountain. John L. Mock, proprietor. Post-office 
address. Port Douglass. The section is wild, pictur- 
esque and noted as a fishing resort. Enthusiastic ad- 
mirers call it the " Naples of Lake Champlain." Cer- 
tain trains on the D. & H. will stop during the season, 
for which see time-tables. See also local time-table for 
landing of steamer. Free carriage to landing on 
notification. Telephone in the house. For additional 
particulars see index to appendix. 

Port Kent is lo miles from Burlington. Below, 

the town is not 
attractive, but 
above, along 
the brow of the 
hills are several 
very pleasant, 
comfort abl e 
looking houses, 
among them the 
old home of El- 
kanah Watson, 
the historian. 
Trembleau Hall, 
a boarding 
house, will ac- 
commodate 
about 20 guests. 
Farrell & Adgate, proprietors. Rates unknown. 

Tlie K., AuS. C.&Ii. C. R. R. runs from Port Kent 
to Keeseville. passing over the chasm a short distance 
below Rainbow Falls. The road is five miles long 
and was built primarily in the interest of the AuSable 
Horse Nail Works at Keeseville. 



DISTANCES 

IN Mli.ES 

From PORT KEN I 

AUSABLE CHASM/3, 
KEESEVILLES.br 

•■ "X ^ 

AU SABLE FORKS 16.0 ••°'«.\^'^ /^ - 
WlLMlNSTONie.-' L^9^ ^ 



qJAY 



^^<t 



YUPPtajAY25 
OtAKiPLACrO* 
...' CASCA0E.VILLE3'J 

HUbSoWnS CRAVED *r>KEENt3l 
0+5 
mOHOACKLOME 9KEENE VALLEY 36, 

9BEE0E 3& 
^S^LE L><„£.^ 




W. H. TRACY 



THE ADIROXDACKS. 41 

Tlie Lake View House from its commanding 
position overlooks the long slope down to the shores 
of Lake Champlain toward the east, and at the west, 
the valley through which comes the Au Sable river, 
the little hamlet of Au Sable Chasm, and the head of 
the Gorge into which the river plunges in spray- 
draped Rainbow Falls. The accommodations in 
house and cottages are sufficient for a hundred guests 
but the dining capacity is practically unlimited. 
Rates $2.50 per day, with special terms for the week 
or season. Open June i to October 15. Stop-over 
privileges are given passengers by rail and boat at 
Port Kent. The hotel carriage conveys guests to and 
from the Chasm station for 25 cents the round trip. 
W. H. Tracy, proprietor. The hotel and Chasm are 
under one management and Mr. Tracy may be ad- 
dressed for particulars relating to either. 

Au Sable Cliasixi is the Yosemite in miniature ! 
Here the impetuous Au Sable, coming out from the 
mountains of the south, breaks, after many a rush 
and tumble, over the rocks in beautiful Rainbow 
Falls, then hurrying downward through devious ways, 
under towering cliffs and through dark places where 
the sun never shines, finally emerges into the broader, 
willowy way, to mingle after many a twist and turn 
Avith the quiet waters of Lake Champlain. The walls 
that now stand apart, were united and solid in the 
past ; projections on the one side are faced by corres- 
ponding depressions on the other ; strata broken off 
here are continued over there. Low down are found 
petrified specimens of the first orders of animal Mfe, 
and ripple marks made when the rock, in its plastic 
state, was the bed of some lake or ocean ; above in 
cuccessive layers, are nearly a hundred feet of solid 
rock. 




AU SABLE CHASM-UP FROM TABLE ROCK. 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 43 

Who can say what ages have passed away since 
the restless sea beat upon this unknown shore and 
left the marks of its wavelets for us to wonder at ? 
Thought is lost away back in the eternity of ' ' The 
Beginning" when darkness was upon the face of the 
deep. Later, with the dawn of Creation, and in its 
full light, the lowest of animal creatures lived their 
brief day and added their mite to old Ocean's bot- 
tom. Long ages passed away. Floods swept across 
the uneasy earth that reeled and staggered with the 
pulsations of its mighty heart of fire. Its thin shell 
bubbled up into mountain ridges, and broke like 
crackle glass, then, cooling, left its lines in ragged 
heights and fearful depths, over which great glaciers 
came grinding uplifted points, polishing, leveling and 
filling up. Then the ice retreated to its northern 
home. The rains descended, the floods came out of 
the mountains filled with great rocks and sharp flint 
and grinding quartz, to gnaw its way deeper and 
deeper into the soft rock until in the fullness of our 
day is revealed the wonderland of " The Walled 
Banks of the Au Sable." 

Admission to tlie Cbasm is gained through 
"The Lodge," a picturesque building, octagonal in 
form, pagoda-like, unique and attractive. Within, 
will be found photographs, books and curios pertain- 
ing to the place. Before descending, note the queer 
effect that the stained glass in the lodge windows 
gives to objects seen through them, where the blue 
makes frosty winter, and the red the most insufferable 
of summers of the same object. 

Entrance fee of 75 cents is charged. The boat 
ride is 50 cents additional, including carriage back to 
the hotel. Large parties are admitted at reduced 
rates. Permanent guests of the Lake View have free 
access. Guides are unnecessary, as once in the 
Chasm, the course is plain, guide boards and signs 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 45 

pointing the way ai.d calling attention to notable 
places until Table Rock is reached where boats are 
entered for the remainder of the trip. The boats are 
in charge of experienced men, and although the ride is 
exciting, it is attended with no danger, and the most 
timid need not hesitate in going. 

Rainbow Falls, at the head of the Chasm, flings 
its mass of water from nearly 70 feet above into the 
gulf below. Horse Slioe Falls is nearly opposite 
the entrance. Note its suggestive shape from the 
lookout before descending the stairs. 

Pulpit Rock faces us as we approach the Elbow, 
A\^hich is the first turn below the entrance. Split Rock 
shows on the left at the farthest point visible as you 
turn around the elbow. The rock which stands at the 
left of the opening made by the splitting off of a 
large fallen mass is called the Elephant's Head 
and with the morning sun lighting up the massive 
front, the name does not seem inappropriate. Stop 
Avhen you reach the end of the bridge that crosses 
here. The Devil's Oven is in the wall which shuts 
•off our farther advance on the right of the stream. 
Why "Oven" is not so clear, for if you climb the 
rough rocks and enter its 30 feet of depth, you M'ill 
not find it the superheated place suggested, but rather 
the reverse. The same tropical imagination that con- 
ceived of this and some of the other names applied 
to places here, gave to the narrow passage-way at our 
feet the name of Hell Gate, and looking, one does 
not really wonder at the fancy. From Hell Gate, 
rising in a great sweep heavenward, away from the 
rushing water, is Jacob's Ladder. Across the 
bridge we go, around the rocky abutment toward the 
left, clinging perhaps to the iron railing which pre- 
vents our sliding into the water below ; beneath 
overhanging rocks, over the seeming water, across 
the bridge which spans the Devil's Punch-Bowl — 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



47 



pausing, perhaps, to 
iVlance into the green 
depths of the Ferner}^ at 
our left — down across the 
worn rocks, then zig-zag 
up the side to a higher 
level to gaze into one of 
the most remarkable 
specimens of rock boring 
in the world, called Ja- 
cob's Well, showing 
where some vagrant 
stone, caught perhaps in 
an eddy when the stream 
ran at this high level and 
whirled about b}^ the cur- 
rent ground its way down 
through the strata of soft 
rock, until worn out in 
vain beatings against its 
prison walls. Here a bridge crosses Mystic Gorge^ 
to the liOn^ Gallery beyond, which, descending, we 
come to Point of Rocks. Note, high up the sides 
of these rocks the segment of a large bowl similar 
to Jacob's Well. Backward, the rapids, seen from 
this point in the sunshine at noon, are very beauti- 
ful. Opposite is Hyde's Cave, named after a ven- 
turesome individual who, in 1871, let himself down 
by a rope from the rocks above and was the first to 
reach its dual entrance. Below the bridge, which 
leads to Hyde's Cave, on the same side of the stream, 
is Bixby's Grotto. 

Smuggler's Pass is on the north shore, directly 
opposite the Grotto. You may follow along the ledge 
if you like and lose yourself from sight where, back 
from the river, this passage widens into quite a large 
chamber. More stairways are found as we proceed,. 





RUNNING THE RAPIDS. 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 49 

fnen comes the Post Office which although it has 
neither Post Master nor distinguishing name m the 
postal department, nevertheless does a large busi- 
ness, peculiarly its own, as the observant visitor will 
notice. No charge is made here for drop-letter or 
cards and many avail themselves of the privilege. 

Clinging close to the rocks protected by the iron rail- 
ing we pass along high up at this point, then through 
the Hang:in^ Garden and, descending, cross to 
Table Rock. From the upper point of Table Rock 
look backward through the Upper Flume. Sec 
Column Rocks at the farthest visible point on the 
left,, and if the sun be right, notice the Altarcloth. 
hanging over the water at the right. Turning, the 
Anvil is before you, partially hidden perhaps, by the 
rustic canopy which has been built against it to afford 
shade for such as may care to take advantage of it 
when, for the two or three brief hours in the middle 
of the day, the sun pours its beams down into this open 
space. Back of the Anvil Catbedral Rocks rise a 
hundred feet above the level floor, suggesting in their 
broken lines, some vast cathedral's ruined towers and 
aisles. *' Tlie Sentinel " stands guard at the outer 
comer of Cathedral Rocks. 

Through a cleft in the lower edge of Table Rock we 
descend and enter the large batteaux found waiting 
here for the passage through the Grand Flume and 
beyond. Do not fear, for these boats are strong and 
serviceable to withstand the hard knocks they get at 
times, and in charge of stalwart boatmen who will 
guide us safely through the exciting passage below. 
Tlie Grand Flume reaches from Table Rock down 
to the ' ' pool. " Here the water runs straight away, shut 
in by walls that rise perpendicularly up for more than 
a hundred feet, while the dip of the rock-strata on 
either side gives one the queer sensation of running 
down quite as-^eep hill. Here, at the naiTowest place, 



50 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



the cliffs are scarcely ten feet apart and tlie sky above 

seems but a narrow ribbon of blue. The water seems 
to round up in the middle and 
actually to run on edge. Over 
this spot the main road crossed 
years ago and the place is 
spoken of now by the older in- 
habitants as " Hi^li Bridge," 
A story is told to the effect 
that when after a time the bridge 
was condemned and the plank 
taken off leaving only the naked 
log stringers stretched across, a 
horseman went over one dark 
and stormy night, unconscious 
of his danger at the time, al- 
though remembering afterward 
that as ne approached in the 
intense darkness, his horse had 
hesitated and when urged, 
moved forward in fear and 
trembling. 
Tlie Lower Gate- Way ends the Grand Flume 

and ushers us into the Pool. Tlie Sentry Box is 

at the right as we emerge into the open space. On 

the left there is a larger cr'evasse 

in which, leaning, stands the Bro- 
ken Needle. At the Pool, the 

river turns sharply to the left and 

leads downward over dancing rapids 

where we go until, rounding to 

the right, we enter quiet water 

once more and finally pass out 

into the Basin where, at the 

landing, carriages are taken to 

convey us back to the hotel. 

It IS well to have passed ' '"""^ 

+^-ough Au Sable Chasn-i once in a life-time. Such 








THE ADIRONDACKS. 5 1 

scenes make a man realize the puny creature that 
he is, for — in the somewhat stalwart language of 
Will Carleton : 

To appreciate Heaven well 



It is good for man to have some fifteen minutes of Hell." 
Photographs of the Chasm may be procured at the 
Lake View House, where large books, showing the 
series, are on exhibition. 

******* 

Returning to the steamer, we see, three miles north 
of the landing at Port Kent, the sandy mouth of the 
Au Sable River. " Au Sable" means "a river of 
sand." A wooded depression in the ground above 
shows the course of the river. Across from this is the 
Avidest uninterrupted portion of the lake, the distance 
being nearly eleven miles. Measuring into Mallett's 
Bay, the distance is nearly thirteen miles. 

Valcour Island is about six miles north of Port 
Kent, the steamer passing between it and the main 
land on the west. Here, Oct. ii, 1776, the first naval 
engagement of the Revolution occurred, between the 
British, under command of Captain Thomas Pringle, 
and the Americans under Benedict Arnold. The 
British command was victorious ; the American fleet 
destroyed. The wreck of the "Royal Savage" lies 
under water at the south end of Valcour Island. In 
this engagement, although defeated, Arnold acquitted 
himself in such a manner as to win the admiration of 
his enemies and the approval of his superior officers. 
..ie was bom in Norwich, Conn., Jan. 3d, 1741, and 
died in London, June 14, 1801. As a youth, turbulent ; 
as a soldier he was ambitious and bold to rashness. 
Jealous of his fellow offcers, the transition from dis- 
contented rebel to infamous traitor was easy. A 
brilliant commander — his fall was like that of Lucifer.* 

* For a full account of this engagement see "Lake George 
AND Lake Champlain." 



THE ADIRONDACKS. ^2^ 

Hotel Champlain, the superb, is seen on the 
bold headland that puts out from the west shore just 
north of Valcour Island. It does not come upon you 
suddenly, as a revelation. You have seen it over the 
lake for 'miles back on your course, before the steamer 
had touched at Burlington, perhaps, or from the car 
window as the reeling train swung around Trembleau 
Mountain nearly ten miles away and at intervals ever 
since as the road wound in and out along the shore. 
Now, as you approach, its magnificent proportions 
come out in grand relief against the sky. 

" Commanding" is not misapplied here. The hotel 
stands on a height that breaks away abruptly in all 
directions for a space, then in gentler slope reaches 
the level of the lower shores north and south, the 
water on the east, and the valley toward the west 
where the trains of the D. & H. flash like gleaming 
shuttle through the vari-tinted web of cultivated fields 
and cross-line country roads. Long colonades ; broad 
piazzas conforming to the swelling contour of facing, 
east, south and west ; breezy porticos, and balconies 
hung along its sides or perched high up on tower and 
sharply sloping roof — give grace and lightness to the 
structure that rises above the tops of the trees crown- 
ing the rugged bluff. Distance gives to it the light- 
ness of a castle built of straws — the closer view reveals 
it solid and substantial as the most realistic could 
wish. 

At a moderate elevation it commands in an un- 
broken circuit a panorama that for picturesque varie- 
ty and beauty is equalled perhaps nowhere in the 
country. Having no near mountain heights to dwarf 
its own strong setting, it looks out over land and 
water diversified and changeful. The surrounding 
scenery is restful, rather than overpowering with great 
heights and depths. Right and left runs the lower 
plain mth checker-board of field and woodland with 




•'"'' :^'iy4i^kii^^^ 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 55. 

network of roads, and quaint farm buildings gathered 
here and there in little knots that form hamlets 
and villages, while be3'ond are hills rising into the 
the ranges of the Adirondacks that stretch across, 
pointed at intervals with the grander mountain peaks. 
Towards the east a wide swath has been cut out 
through the green trees down to the water's edge, 
where busy life attends as the steamers come and go. 
Here gleams the beach of "The Singing Sands" cir- 
cling in a broad belt toward the south, between the 
restless water and the thick growing cedars. Toward 
the north are perpendicular cliffs that attain quite a 
height — the bluffs which undoubtedly gave to the 
point its name. They are cleft asunder at one place 
and made memorable by the tradition of the White 
Squaw and the Bloody Hand that left its marks on 
the walls and later as the place where smugglers 
successfully landed their stores free from suspicion 
because of its seeming inaccessibility. 

Valcour Island lies below like a garden bordered 
^^nth its varying belt of shrubbery. Beyond dotted 
here and there with islands, stretches the broad lake 
to the shores of Vermont, the Green Mountains be- 
yond rising into the heights of Camel's Hump and 
Mount Mansfield. North and east are Grand Isle 
and the Great Back Bay ; at the north, Cumberland 
Head, the sweeping circle of Plattsburgh Bay, where 
occurred that splendid naval battle of 1814, — the last, 
as the battle of Valcour was the first, with the mother 
country — and nearer, the little island where sleep the 
dead of that eventful day. 

Within the hotel is found everything that apper- 
tains to a — oh, much and ill-used term — first class 
house. Every modern appliance tending to the com- 
lort of guests will be found here and that its manage- 
ment will be all which time and experience has shown 
to be the most acceptable to the travelled Dublic, may 



56 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

be confidently expected, for that prince of hotel-keep- 
ers, O. D. Seavey, of the Ponce de Leon, St. Augus- 
.Ine, Florida, is at its head. 

Distance from New York is 308 miles; fare, $8.05. 
To Montreal, 77 miles; fare, $2.71. Quick and con- 
venient train service will be maintained throughout 
the season north and south. Passengers leaving in the 
morning, arrive at Saranac Lake, Lake Placid and 
the various hotels, reached by the Chateaugay Rail- 
road in time for dinner. 

Crab Island, some distance north of Valcour, is 
the burial place of the common sailors and marines 
who fell in the battle of Plattsburgh: North of this, 
and projecting well out across the lake, is Cumber- 
land Head, from which the shore recedes toward the 
north and west, then comes back in a wide sweep, 
embracing Cumberland Bay. 

The Battle of Plattsburgh took place here in 
1814. Stripped of detail, the account of this decisive 
battle is as follows: On Sabbath morning, September 
nth, 1814, the American land forces under General 
McComb, and the American fleet under Commodore 
Macdonough, were simultaneously attacked by the 
British land and water forces, under General Sir 
■George Provost and Commodore Downie. The en- 
gagement resulted in a complete victory for the Ameri- 
cans, only a few small boats of the enemy effecting a 
successful retreat. The British also lost immense 
stores, which were abandoned in their retreat — which 
served them right for breaking the Sabbath. 

Tlie Barracks, occupied by several companies of 
soldiers forming a regular U. S. Army post, are near 
the lake shore, about a mile south of Plattsburgh. 
The old buildings were erected in 1838. The ne\v 
barracks and officers' quarters are handsome and 
imposing structure standing in ample and well-kept 
grounds. 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



57 



Plattsburgli on the west shore of Cumberland 
Bay, is a thriving village of 8,000 inhabitants. It is 
of considerable commercial importance, being on the 
direct line between New York and Montreal, 311 
miles from the former and 74 miles from the latter. 
It is the northern terminus of the Au Sable (Branch) 
Railroad, and from it the Chateaugay Railroad pene- 
trates the mountains towards the west. Plattsburgh 

is thorough- 
ly cosmopol- 
itan, with 
an opinion 
to offer on 
every ques- 
tion of day, 
exerting 
no me an 
influence 
through its 
wide-awake 
newspapers 
the Daily 
Press, and 
the Se7iti- 
7tel and Re- 
publican — 
the latter 
instituted 
m 1811, and notwithstanding its age, one of the most 
reliable and ably conducted democratic weeklies in 
the state. The town has numerous churches, high and 
graded schools. State Normal School, and one of the 
handsomest and best appointed opera houses in the 
state, outside the city of New York. 

Tlie First Settler in this region was Count 
Charles de Fredenburgh, a captain in the English 
army. The warrant conveying the land to him bore 




58 THE ADIRONDACKS, 

date June ii, 1769. The property reverting to the 
state after the Revolution, was granted in 1784, to 
Zephaniah Piatt and others, and incorporated into the 
town of Plattsburgh, April 4, 1785. A company was 
then organized which, in June of the same year, 
erected a mill a Fredenburgh Falls. The estimate of 
expense contained, among other items, the following: 
"For bread, $65; for rum, $80." They used a great 
deal of bread in those days. In the year 1 800 Platts- 
burgh possessed a population of less than 300. Within 
the county limits were owned at this time 58 slaves. 

Hotels. The Fouquet House at the depot, affords 
a convenient stopping place for parties arriving late 
or desiring to take an early train out. The Witherill 
House is near the post-office. It is elegant in its ap- 
pointments, it pictures and decorations displaying 
a high degree of artistic taste. The Cumberland 
stands at the corner of Trinity Square. 

Tlie Catnolic Summer Scliool of America 
has acquired necessary land on the lake between 
Plattsburgh and Bluff Point and will erect buildings 
suitable for its service. Lectures on scientific, historic 
and religious subjects are presented, the course ex- 
tending from the middle of July to the middle of Au- 
gust. Officers : Rev. Thomas J. Conaty, D.D,, Presi- 
dent, Worcester, Mass. ; Rev. Joseph H. McMahon, 
First Vice-President, 460 Madison Avenue, New York 
City: George Parsons Lathrop, LL.D., Second Vice- 
President, New London, Conn. ; Rev. Morgan M. 
Sheedy, Treasurer, Pittsburgh, Pa. ; Warren E. Mo- 
■sher, A. M., Secretary, Youngstown, Ohio. 

Cumberland Head, near which occurred the 
naval battle of 1814, is three miles from Plattsburgh. 
Contmuing northward the west shore is low but pic- 
turesque in its irregular line of deep bays and pro- 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 59 

jecting points, but of little interest historically except 
for the old fort that once stood on Point au Fer, built 
according to the best authorities, in 1774. 

Rouse's Point is 20 miles north of Plattsburgh. 
It is of considerable commercial interest, and the most 
important port of entry on the frontier. Five rail- 
roads centre here, viz : the D. & H., leading to New 
York, the O. & L. C, to Ogdensburg and the Thou- 
sand Islands, the Grand Trunk to Montreal, the Port- 
land & Ogdensburg to the White Mountains, and the 
Central Vermont to Boston and the southeast. 

Fort Montgomery, a little way north of the 
long bridge, is an interesting ruin belonging to the 
United States. About a mile north of this a belt of 
woodland marks the boundary line between the 
United States and Canada. 

******* 

For Interior Resorts we will not take the gate- 
ways in their numerical order nor yet in order of their 
importance, but rather in groups that lead to the 
three great divisions: First, the Northwest Lake 
Region, via Gateway No. i. Second, the Central 
Mountain district, via Gateways Nos. 2and 3. Third, 
the Lake Region of the Southwest, via Gateway No. y^ 



CHAPTER IV. 




Into the Northwest Lake Region via the 
Chateaugay Railroad. 

GATEWAY No. i leads from Plattsburgh into the 
Great Northwest Lake Region over the Chateau- 
gay Railroad, dividing the patronage of the central 
and westerly resorts with 
Gateway No. 9. 

The first section of the 
railroad was built by the 
State from Plattsburgh to 
Clinton Prison, syt Danne- 
mora, 17 miles. In 1880 
the road was extended to 
Lyon Mountain, 17 miles 
further; but the influx of 
Adirondack tourists was 
increasing, and the road that climbed an altitude of 
2,000 feet to reach the iron mines of Lyon Mountain, 
must go farther into the wilderness. So it was 
•extended to Loon Lake. In 1888, 19 miles were 
added, bringing it to Saranac Lake, distributing its 
passengers by various stage routes that branch from 
it to a score or more of summer hotels. By it tourists 
reach Chazy, Chateaugay, Loon, Rainbow, St. Regis, 
and Upper and Lower Saranac Lakes, Ray Brook and 
Lake Placid, going to Cascade Lakes and Adirondack 
Lodge by stage. A Wagner sleeping car leaves 
Grand Central Station, New' York, daily the year 
round, for Plattsburgh, w^here passengers are given 
time for breakfast before leaving for the interior. 
During the pleasure season, passengers can leave 
Grand Central Station 7:30 p. m. connecting with trains 
60 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 6r 

leaving Plattsburgh 7:30 a. m., and reach the various 
resorts in time for dinner. Passengers can leave New 
York at 6 p. m. by Hudson River night boats and by 
the Adirondack special from Albany or Troy, reach 
Plattsburgh at 12:20 and Saranac Lake and Lake 
Placid early in the afternoon the following day. This 
enables passengers to take the stage ride from the 
railroad to the various hotels in the cool of the day. 
Drawing-room cars are run on all trains. Sleeping 
and drawing-room car accommodations can be secured 
in advance at any of the stations. A Sunday train 
each way will run during July and August, and all 
trains run through to Lake Placid during that time 
without change. 

Dannexnora is 17 miles from, and 1,300 feet above 
Plattsburgh. Clinton prison is situated here, and af- 
fords a quiet home for a number of people of leisure, 
who pass their time in meditation, making clothing, 
and other congenial pursuits. From Dannemora, the 
road swings westerly, around the south side of John- 
son Mountain, then north, near the west shore of 
Chazy Lake, then, west and southerly to the mines 
at Lyon Mountain, running 17 miles to reach a point 
nine miles distant in a straight line, 

Gliazy Lake is nearly four miles long and a mile 
wide. Chazy Lake House has an advertised capacity 
for 50 to 60 guests. It stands near the north end of 
the lake, and may be reached by rowboat from Chazy 
Station or by carriage from Dannemora. 

Lyon Mountain was until recently the centre of 
extensive mining operations of the Chateaugay Ore 
and Iron Company. In 1878 it contained only a few 
scattered houses; in 1893 it had a hotel, stores, and 
churches, with about 2,000 inhabitants. The depres- 
sion in the iron trade rendered mining unprofitable 
and the work stopped — to remain so, probably, unfi' 
Wilson and McKinley shall lie down together an-i ' • o 



•62 



THE ADIRONDACKS, 



-MAP OF — 



demand for iron become once more a healthy one. 
At present the houses are nearly all deserted, the 
windows boarded up and the once busy town silent. 
The iron industry there is dead except where, at the 
base of the mountain, a small force is engaged in the 
reduction of the rich tailings of the older works by a 
patent process yet in the experimental stage. A part 
of a day can be spent here profitably inspecting the 
mines, crushers, separators, etc., although ordinarily 
it is not a pleasure seeker's resort. 

Upper Ctiateaugay Lake is^ about four miles 
in length and one broad. It empties at the north into 
the Lower Lake, w^hich 
is somewhat smaller 
than the upper. It is 
picturesque with sur- 
rounding mountains 
and rugged shores. It 
is reached by stage from 
Lyon Mountain, 4miles, 
and from Chateaugay 
Station on the O. «& L. 
C. R. R. by an 8-mile 
stage ride and by con- 
necting boat through 
the lower lake and nar- 
rows. It has a number 
of summer hotels and 
cottage-camps on its 
shores. The smaller game birds and water fowl are 
here in their season, squirrels and foxes abound, and 
deer and bear are not uncommon additions to the list 
of the killed. A Small Steamboat runs through 
the lower and upper lakes, landing at all camps 
and hotels. Fare 50 cents. An excursion down the 
winding stream that connects the two lakes brings to 
view at intervals a section of country that has been 
long settled. 




THE ADIRONDACKS. 63 

Ralph's is on the east shore (see map) y^ miles 
from Lyon Mountain (stage fare 50 cents). Capacity 
for about :oo guests. Open from June 15th to 
October. For rates see appendix. J. W. Hutton, 
proprietor. This house is specially attractive with an 
air of neatness that extends from office to kitchen. 
The beds are of the best and the table equaled by 




few of the most famous. There is a telegraph office 
here and two mails daily. It is one of the places 
where you realize that there is consideration for you 
not limited by the length of your purse, where, with a 
degree of comfort not often met with, 3^ou are sur- 
rounded by a primitive environment that goes to 
make the ideal summer's outing. Here will be found 
tennis, billiards and bowling for lovers of such amuse- 
ments, and boats, guides and camp supplies for sports- 
man and fisherman. The proprietor is thorough and 
efficient, and during the season may be found, a 
genial boniface, always at his post. 



64 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



genial boniface always at his post, always obliging 
and on the alert to do whatever may be done to render 
his guests comfort- 
able and see that 
they do not lack the 
opportunity for rest 
or recreation as may 
suit them best. 

Tlie Indian 
Point House is on 
> he west side of the 

ake near its south 

;nd ; capacity about 
iio guests. R. M. 
Shutts, proprietor. 
Post-office address, 
Merrill's. N.Y. See 
appendix for rates. 
The accommoda- 
tions are in a group J- "^^ "utton. 
of buildings that have grown to meet the increasing 
demand of visitors, and the equipment consists of 
some of the best beds made and furniture comfort- 
able enough for all reasonable desires. It is strictly 
a temperance house, no liquor being sold on the 
premises. The steamboat runs regularly to connect 
with the stage for railroad at Lyon Mountain. Fare 
to railroad, $i. Mr. Shutts is a veteran hunter and 
fisherman, and his house is admirably located for 
lovers of wildwood sports. Some of the best fishing 
grounds of the lake are close by the house. At the 
back is a dense forest that reaches out into the wild 
section, through which trails run to smaller sheets of 
water that are little known except to the local hunter 
and fisherman. All requisites for sport are supplied 
when wanted. 




iHE ADIRONDACkS. 65 

The Merrill House. Capacity about 60. Oliver 
Young, proprietor. Post office (MerriU's) and tele- 
graph office in the house. Stage to trains at Lyon 
Mountain (4 miles), 50 cents. This house is long 
established and highly approved. It is quaint, home- 

■ like and attractive in many respects. Its location is 
convenient (see map) for lake and river hunting oj 
fishing alike. The house stands on rising grounc 
about 60 feet back from the lake where the littk 
steamer lands on regular trips. While it has the 

' ordinary hunting facilities, Merrill's is a resort for all 

: kinds of weather because of its position near the out- 
let which gives choice of lake or river fishing according 
to the time or season. Boats cost to hire 50 cents per 
day, $3 per week ; boats and guides from $2. 50 to $3 
per day. For prices of board see appendix. 

Tlie Chateaugav, fo-^-^p^iv ■t^ot'^'' T-nterlaken, is 
near the Merrill House. Charles W. Backus, proprie- 

Uor. P. O., Merrill's. Fare to Lyon Mountain (4 

I miles), 50 cents. 

I ^ I«ower Cliateaiigay Lake is about ^yi miles 
] in length, and less than a mile in width, with nice 
shores and sloping hills on either side. It is reached 
from the Upper Lake by a winding stream about two 
miles in length, through which the little steamer runs, 
affording a pleasant excursion in its round to the dif- 
ferent landings. 

Tlie Banner House, on the east side near the 
north end of the lake, will provide for 75 guests in 
house and adjoining cottages. The place is suggestive 
of quiet comfort and vacation rest. J. S. Kirby, pro- 
prietor. Post Office Chateaugay Lake. Stage to 
Chateaugay Station 50 cents. By boat and stage to 
Lyon Mountain $1. For rates of board see appendix. 



6t) TUli ADIRUNDACKS 

CJiateaugay (gateway No. i6, station on the O. 
& L. C. R. R. 45 miles west of Rouse's Point), is 8 
miles north of Lower Chateaugay Lake on the river 
of the same name, which continues northward to the 
St. Lawrence. It is a somewhat thriving country- 
village of about 700 population, with two hotels, 
stores, etc. 

Cliateaugay Cliasm, i^^ miles north of the 
station, rivals Au Sable Chasm in many respects, and 
deserves to rank among the wonders of the Adiron- 
dack region. It is a half mile in length, walled in by 
perpendicular cliffs, through which -the river runs, 
descending in its first leap a distance of 50 feet; 
thence by numerous broken steps, throughout its en- 
tire length. It is rendered accessible to the public by 
means of stairways, galleries, etc. The diasm 
House, standing at the entrance, is much resorted 
to by local picnic parties and by wonder-seekers from 

a distance. 

****** 

Returning to Lyon Mountain we swing around 
its west side, getting a beautiful and extended view 
of Chateaugay Lake at one point where the woods 
have been cut away for that purpose. Then come 
forge and coal-kilns, beyond which, winding west and 
south, the road penetrates a wild and interesting sec- 
tion of wilderness, until Loon Lake is reached. 

liOon Lake extends south from the station, and is 
about two and a half miles long. It is an extremely 
pretty sheet, with high banks and irregular shores, 
although marred somewhat in its beai:^ty by the 
work of the lumberman and of forest hres. TtLe 
Loon Lake House stands on the high ridge at 
its south end which, like the rim of some wide-mouthed 
volcano, holds the lake within its circling walls, while 
beyond, the land drops rapidly down into the deep 
valley of the Saranac. The house is roomy, well fur- 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



67 



nished, and, together with the cottages, has capacity 
for about 35. P. O., Loon Lake. Stages meet trains 
at Station ; fare 75 cents. Open June to October. 
At Loon Lake Station the A. & St. L. Railroad 
from Malone joins the Chateaugay, the two running 
parallel for some distance, then gradually drawing 
apart, the Chateaugay running south, the A. & St. L. 
swinging westerly. Round Pond, or Lake Kush- 
agua, is 4 miles south of Loon Lake Station. A new 
hotel has been put up on its west shore by Smith & 

Leonard. Dominick, manager. RainbOTir 

Lake is noted fishing ground and claims the proud 
distinction of yielding the largest lake trout on record, 
one having a weight of 52 pounds. Numerous small 
ponds in this vicinity afford excellent fishing. Rain- 
bow Inn will provide for 50 guests. James M. 
Wardner, proprietor. P. O,, '• Rainbow." Tele- 
graph and telephone 
connection with Paul 
Smith's, S a r a n a c 
Lake, Lake Placid, 
etc. Open all the 
year. Station on the 
A. & St. L. Railroad 
about 50 rods from 
the house, to which a 
plank walk leads. 
Station on the Cha- 
teaugay three miles 
east, to which special 
conveyance runs if 
notice be sent in ad- 
vance. Passengers 
leaving New York city 
at about 7 p. m. reach 
Rainbow, via. the A. & St. L. in time for breakfast. 
The house is finished in a most substantial manner 
with native woods, and arranged to be warmed com- 




^^^ 




x^^n 



THE ADIRONDOCKS. 69 

fortably throughout in case of a sudden lowering of 
the temperature, such as may be expected here by 
the early fishermen or the hunter who tarries for late 
shooting. The large farm connected with the house 
insures a supply of farm products, fresh and health- 
ful. The place has more than the usual number of 
attractions for the hunter or fisherman, as might be 
expected where the proprietor himself is an ardent 
lover of sport and combines with hearty good-fellow- 
ship a knowledge of the habits and haunts of wild 
game possessed by but few. He is also cordially sec- 
onded in all his undertakings by an efficient help- 
meet, who counts among her accomplishments that of 
a taxidermist and gives practical evidence of her 
work by filling every comer of the house with native 
specimens of the art. 

Bloomin^dale (Bloomingdale Station, on the 
Chateaugay Railroad, i% miles distant, 66 miles from 
Plattsburgh), a little hamlet with Methodist, Episco- 
pal and R. C. Churches, several stores, express and 
telegraph offices. The hotel is the Crystal Spring 
House. Open all the year. Robeson & Sharland, 
proprietors. Carriages to station, 25 cents. To Paul 
Smith's Station, 50 cents. See Appendix. 

Paul Smitll's is on lower St. Regis Lake, 7 miles 
west of Bloomingdale Station on the Chateaugay, and 
4 miles from Paul Smith's Station on the A. & St. L. 
Railroad. (Stage 75 cents ; for private conveyance 
advise by mail or telegraph). Capacity 500. Paul 
Smith's Hotel Company, proprietors, P. O., Paul 
Smith's. Paul Smith came here in 1861 and built a 
small house for the accommodation of sportsmen. It 
soon became a favorite fishing and hunting resort, and 
grew rapidly in bulk and popularity. It is still much 
visited for sport and leads as a fashionable resort. 
Parlor and Sleeping cars run through to New York 
over the A. & St. L. R. R. 



-O THE ADIRONDACKS. 

Lower St. Re^s Lake is about two miles long 
by one broad, and discharges west through the mid- 
dle branch of the St. Regis River. It is about i,6oo 
feet above tide. The only elevation of note in this 
section is St. Reg'is Mountain, 1,265 feet above 
the lake. From its summit a beautiful view of the 
lake district is obtainable, showing over fifty different 
bodies of water. 

North of Paul Smith's is a territory, not grand but 
remaining rough and wild, albeit attempts have been 
made for years to subject it to civilization and culti- 
vation. Many parts are noted for game, although not 
so well known to the great public a^ other sections 
that are, perhaps, dominated by more enterprise than 
this. It is reached past Paul Smith's or from the 
northern gateways 

Malone (Gateway 15) is 57 miles west of Rouse's 
Point. It is the County seat of Franklin County, a 
flourishing, Avide-awake village and one of the im- 
portant towns of the State. Hotel Flanagan is the 
leading house, and a good one. Rates $2 to $3 per 
day. Here the A. & St. L. Railroad connects with 
road into Canada which, branching after crossing the 
St. LaA\Tence, gives unbroken tram service to Ottawa 
and Montreal. South, the road pierces the wildest 
section of the west lake region through which it 
winds to its junction with the N. Y. Central at Herki- 
mer. 

Mountain View (State dam of old) is 13 miles 
south of Malone. Tlie Mountain View House 
is near the station ; capacity 80. Rates $2. 50 to $3 
per day ; $10 to $17 per week. Open all the year. R. 
G. Low, proprietor. P. O., Mountain View. 

Indian Lake is one-third of a mile north, and out- 
lets into the river above the State dam. From it a 
trail leads north to the road running east to Rag^gred 
Lake (43^ miles long, including the " Figure Eight "). 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 71 

The two are connected by a short stream and one- 
third mile carry. The name of each is descriptive 
enough. Ingraliain Pond is about 1% miles west 
of the head of Ragged Lake. Across from the shore 
opposite the Ragged Lake House, a trail leads east i 
mile to Mountain Pond ; thence northeast 4 miles to 
the outlet of Chateaugay Lake. Ladd^s, capacity 
25. Rates $1. 50 to $2. 50 per day ; $7 to $12 per week ; 
open all the year. R. A. Ladd, proprietor. Post 
Office, Duane. This is in a region quite noted for 
game, and the proprietor in his modest way offers at- 
tractive accommodations and wholesome fare at 
a moderate price. It is 16 miles south of Malone, 8 
miles from the railroad station, (A. & St. L. R. R. at 
Mountain View), and 7 miles north of A. R. Fuller's 
noted place at Meacham Lake. The house is compar- 
atively new, having been built in 1891, on the site of 
the old house, destroyed by fire. It has a telegraph 
and post office in the house. This was, of old, quite 
noted hunting groimd; it has not lost its popularity of 
late, for the increase of deer under existing laws is no- 
ticeable here as in many other portions of the Adiron- 
dacks, and the fashionable crowds have not come to 
crowd out those who delight in the chase. Guides 
can be engaged with boats and camp supplies if re- 
quired, to which end the proprietor invites correspond- 
ence. Hotel Ayers is on the north end of Lake 
Duane, 11 miles south of Malone. Capacity 100. 
Rates $3 to $4 per day; $12 to $21 per week. Open 
May ist to November. W. J. Ayers & Son, pro- 
prietors. P. O., Duane, N. Y. Meacliam Lake 
House is 25 miles from Malone, and 12 miles from Paul 
Smith's Station on the N. A. Railroad. Will accom- 
modate 75. Rates, $10 to $17.50 per week; $2 to $3 
per day. A. R. Fuller, proprietor. Meacham Lake 
is about 2.}4, miles long. Its outlet is the east branch 
of the St Regis River. 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 73 

Saranac Liake (village) is 73 miles from Platts- 
burgh ; a picturesque town of about 1,000 inhabitants, 
lying low in the valley ; busy and full of enterprise. 
Around it are protecting hills, and farther back the 
mountains. Between the hills run valleys from north, 
east and south, uniting here so that it is approached 
by level roads, winding through the lowlands from 
either side. It shows a picturesque blending of the 
primitive forms of old times with the swell structures 
of prosperous later days since it went forth that here 
was the health centre of the wilderness. It has four 
churches, a graded school, water supply for street and 
dwellings, stores and hotels, sewers, electric lights, 
a live weekly newspaper — the "Adirondack News " — 
and general telegraphic and telephonic communica- 
tions with the outer world. 

Saranac Lake has excellent service by both the Cha- 
teaugay and A. & St. L. railroads. Trains leaving in 
the morning reach New York early in the evening. 
Afternoon trains connect at Plattsburgh with sleeper 
for New York. By the A. & St. L. Railroad it has 
through train service to and from New York via. the 
west side of the wilderness. Stages run to and fron. 
the various hotels of Saranac Lake on arrival and de- 
parture of all trains. 

Tlie Adirondack Sanitarium is a practical 
application of the good to be had here. It is a mile 
below (north of) the village, on a bluff, commanding a 
grand mountain view toward the north and east, and 
well protected from the prevailing western wind. 
The institution is under the immediate supervision of 
Dr. E. L. Trudeau. Applicants may be examined 
either by Dr. E. G. Janeway, Dr. H. P. Loomis or Dr. 
Walter James, in New York, or Dr. Trudeau. at Sara- 
nac Lake. It is not intended as an asylum for hope- 
less cases, but to put within reach of sufferers from 
incipient pulmonary complaints, whose means are 



t:^e adirondacks. 

limited, the advantage to be derived from the Adiron- 
dacks climate, a simple, out-of-doors life, and good 
hygienic surroundings, vnth suitable medical treat- 
ment. There is a handsome central building, con- 
taining dining-room, offices, etc. , and outlaying cot- 
tages, accommodating two to four patients each. The 
Sanitarium accommodates about sixty patients. A 
charge of $5.00 per week is made for each. This is be 
low actual co&t pro rata, but the deficiency is made up 
by annual subscriptions. Dr. Trudeau's experience has 
made him a strong advocate of the systematic open- 
air treatment of consumptives which is carried out at 
the institution in most cases. A characteristic scene 
in mid-winter is that of a dozen or more patients 
swathed in wrappers of wool and fur, ranged, sardine- 
like, side by side on the piazza in comfortable steamer 
chairs, chatting or reading, or engaged in such light 
occupation as may be possible with thickly gloved 
fingers ; often remaining out in what may be called 
bad weather even, from nine o'clock in the morning 
until sun-set, except during the intervals taken for 
dinner. Others drive, muffled in furs, or w^here 
strength permits — thickly clad and well protected 
from the cold — indulge in long tramps through the 
woods or over the hills on snow shoes. 

Tlie Hotels at the village are good and are supple^, 
mented by numerous private boarding houses open 
to meet every extraordinary demand. " Linwood 
Cottage," Frank A. Mantz, manager, is on the main 
street. Capacity 25. Rates, $10 to $15 per week. 
Open all the year. " Riverside Inn," will accommo- 
date 75. Rates, $3 per day ; $14 to $21 per week. 
This house has electric light and steam heat. A free 
carriage runs to trains. _ Open all thQ year. Wallace 
Murray, proprietor. 



THE ..DIRONDACKS. 

The BerkCi-ciy is the leading hotel of the village 
and is open the year round. Streeter & Denison, 
proprietors. It has been noted for some years for its 
table and as a specially neat place, much too small to 
accommodate its would-be guests. Now, with in- 
creased capacity and added conveniences it is a very 
desirable place. It has steam heat and open fireplaces 
both — a most satisfactory combination, as it insures 
warmth with ventilation — electric bells, baths and 
other modern improvements. It has white, unpapered 
walls and native wood floors covered with large rugs 
— all admitting of frequent cleaning and airing. A 
free carriage runs to the stations to meet all trains. 
The proprietors, while both young men, are energetic 
and capable, and deserving of the success which has 
come to them. Accommodations are afforded here 
for about a hundred guests. For rates see appendix. 

Fowler's liivery with office near the Berkeley is 
one of the best equipped stables in the Adirondacks ; 
furnishing horses and carriages to meet every require- 
ment. Carriages meet all trains or may be summoned 
for special needs by mail or telegraph by addressing 
as above. 

Ltake Flower, a new name among Adirondack 
lakes, is the once unhandsome sheet of water south of 
the village, now beautified by the removal of the dead 
timber which filled it — threatening health and a sorrow 
to the eye — and with clean shores and a clear surface 
a most charming addition to the attractions of this 
much favored town. Boats can be had here where 
boating is a pleasure and fishing yields a good return 
Of course the name is for the governor whose facile 
pen contributed so much to the removal of the logs. 

Edgewood Inn, Mrs. Davids, proprietor, is 
about a mile west of the village on high land, show 
ing glimpses of the lake that lies but a little distance 
farther at the west and counts among its attractions 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



79 




thick forest of pine and balsam at its rear. Accom- 
modations are afforded here for about 75 guests. 
Address Mrs. M. A. Davids, Saranac Lake. 
Hotel Del Monte is about a mile from the village 
of Saranac Lake, where 
the north road approach- 
ing Hotel Ampersand 
crosses Colby stream. J. 
E. & W. H. Meagher, 
managers. The house is 
attractive in appearance 
and surroundings and 
modern in its appoint- 
ments, with extensive 
piazzas and large, well- 
lighted rooms. In the vi- 
cinity are forests of pine, 
1 spruce, hemlock, balsam 
j and cedar, through which 

J. E. MEAGHER. 

walks are laid out. Pic- 
turesque bits are found 
at intervals along up 
Colby Stream, the outlet 
of Lake Colby, while 
down stream but a little 
way after its plunge 
over the dam it widens 
out into beautiful Sara- 
nac Lake. A well ap- 
pointed livery furnishes 
the necessary facilities 
to those who would ride 
or drive, w^hile port«rs 
and coaches attend at 
the arrival of all trains. 
Transfer to or from the hotel, 50 cents. Teh Del 
Monte has gained a very flattering reputation 




W. H. MEAGHER. 



8o 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



which the proprietors promise to add to in the 
future if well-directed effort can win such a result. 
The Del Monte will be kept open for winter as well as 
summer boarders. For rates see page 251. 
Hotel Ampersand is at the extreme northerly- 



end of Saranac Lake, 



miles east of the village. 



The Saranac Hotel Company, proprietors ; Eaton & 
Young, managers. P. O. Ampersand. Transient 
rates $4.00 per day and upwards. For special rates 
address the managers. It is picturesque in its com- 
manding position on a slight eminence, surrounded 
by pines, hemlocks and balsams, wij;h white birches 
gleaming here and there among their more sombre 
neighbors. This house is popular and well patronized. 
Tlie Algonquin is on high ground at the east 
side of the lake, commanding an extended view of 
its islands and the 
shores beyond. The 
house is owned and 
managed by John Hard- 
ing, a graduate of Paul 
Smith's famous host- 
lery, and one time asso- 
ciate manager of Hotel 
Ampersand. It is finely 
finished in natural 
woods. The sleeping 
rooms are large, above 
the average, with high 
ceilings and large win- 
dows; open fire-places 
afford ventilation, and, 
on occasion, necessary 
heat. Wide piazzas on three sides give 300 feet of 
promenade protected from rain and sun. The house 
has electric lights throughout. The grounds are ex- 




JOHN HARDINC 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 8l 

tensive, having three-fourths of a mile of lake front, 
with a beautiful sand beach and tennis court, cro- 
quet, etc., and pleasant walks that penetrate the thick 
woods, affording means of open or covered promenade 
as may seem more pleasant. Stages connect with all 
trains ; fare 50 cents. Telegraph and telephone in the 
house. A special feature of the Algonquin, much af- 
fected by believers in the efficacy of out-door air, is 
round in commodious tents with carpeted floors and 
all the etceteras of a well furnished bed-room, which 
will be provided for those who prefer tent life to the 
accommodations of the hotel. For rates, etc., see 
page 253. 

The provident man will have secured his guide in 
advance of his arrival here if his trip contemplates 
hunting " " ".:':: xg or the wild-woods camp. In ab- 
sence ot personal knowledge enquire of your land- 
lord, then ask to see the certificate of whoever applies 
for a situation. The Adirondack Guides' Union pro- 
vides such certificates and you will be justified in re- 
fusing to employ any one not in possession of one. 
Oatman A. Covill, of Saranac Lake, is President and 
John PI. Miller, Secretary. For lists of names see 
page 235-B. 

Lower Saranac Lake is a little less than five 
miles long by one and a quarter wide. It is longest 
in a south-westerly course to the inlet. It is separated 
into several natural divisions by outspreading penin- 
sulas and chain-like groups of islands; there being of 
the latter (counting as such several huge rocks) one for 
every week in the year. There are a number of 
private cottages and camps on its shores, varying from 
the expensive rustic country place to the rude but 
comfortable log and bark affair while on its islands, 
during the summer the white tent and occasional 
bough house are to be found, filled with jolly invalids 
or sportsmen. 



82 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

The outlet is about midway of the lake, three miles 
southeast of its head, receiving the flow of Cold, 
Rogers, and Ray, brooks on the right and the waters 
of Lonesome -Pond on the left and enlarges to form 
Miller Pond, then contracting turns gradually and 
passes through the village of Saranac Lake. 

Tlie Inlet is a winding, lily-flecked stream about 
two miles long, bringing the water from Round Lake. 
At the Rapids, midway between the lakes, the water 
comes down with a swish and a curl at the bottom. 
With high water the rapids may be run in coming 
down but ordinarily it is safest to alight and walk 
along the plank at the side while the guide pilots the 
boat along the channel. 

Middle Saranac Lake, or Round Lake as it is 
commonly called, is about two and one-half miles iji 
diameter, and as its name implies, is nearly round. 
It contains several very pretty rocky islands. The 
shores are bold, and, late in the season, brilliant in 
their Autumn dress. It has the reputation of being 
the roughest water in the Adirondacks, and a " Camp 
of Refuge " is near the outlet for shelter of wind-bound 
or shipwrecked mariners. Between two great rocks 
at the w^est we enter the slow stream that comes from 
the Upper Lake. 

Tlie Saranac Club House (formerly Bartlett's) 
is at the foot of a short carry a half mile above 
Round Lake. This place is reached in summer gen- 
erally by water, although possible to reach it by a 
road through the woods on the east side. It is owned 
by a company known as the "Saranac Club" with. 
a charter membership of 20. The stated objects of 
the club are, primarily, the health, happiness and 
pleasure of its members, but while the accommoda- 
tions of the house will be largely required for the club 
it will be kept open as a hotel and the public accom- 
modated to such an extent as may be without incon- 
venience to club members. 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 83 

Bartlett Carry extends from the dub house, 
something less than a half mile, into the Upper Sara- 

nac. Boat and duffle 
(in the Adirondacks 
everything in the way 
of baggage is ' 'duffle ") 
are carried over on a 
cart, for which the em- 
ployer pays 50 cents. 
Upper Saranac 
Lake is 1,577 feet 
above tide. It is eight 
miles long, measuring 
north and south and 
nearly two miles wide 
at its broadest. 1 1 
discharges toward the 
east from its south end, 
making a rapid de- 
scent of about 35 feet 
in 100 rods, to Bart- 
lett* s. It contains a 
number of islands; 
those at the south be- 
ing rounded or level; 
those at the north, 
bold and rocky. The 
shores partake of the 
nature of the islands ; 
are thickly wooded, 
and rise into hills, 
which can hardly lay 
claim to the title of 
mountains, but which 
are picturesque and 
attractive. In the dis- 
tance, at the north, is 




atli/AXATWJK'OtfJf 



MAP OF UPPER SARANAC LAKE. 

(Surveyed by Dr. S. B. Ward.) 



1 

1 

i 

i 











THE ADIRONDACKS. 85 

St. Regis Mountains; away at the east, Whitefpce ; 
toward the southwest, Ampersand and Seward. Of 
old the route to this lake was generally by way of 
the Lower Saranac, as above described, and it still 
remains a delightful way, but with the opening of the 
A. & St. L. Railroad the mass of visitors come to 
Saranac Inn Station, thence by stage to the head of 
the lake, and by steamer to the various points on its 
shores. 

Saranac Inn is at the head (north end) of Upper 
Saranac Lake. D. W. Riddle, manager; J. Ben Hart, 
assistant manager. P. O., Saranac Inn, N. Y. A 
loop of the telegraph extends to this point, with office 
in the hotel. A general supply store furnishes all jthe 
necessaries for camp or sport. Guides can be engaged 
through the management. The Inn is two miles 
from Saranac Inn Station. Stage fare 50 cents. The 
woods, here in places, exist in their primeval condition. 
From Saranac Inn to Paul Smith's, by water, 10^ 
miles. 

The house stands on a point extending out into the 
lake from the north, and commands a broad expanse 
of water with distant mountains. The view is 
equalled in extent nowhere in the Adirondacks, except 
from the high land between Mirror Lake and Lake 
Placid. The soil is dry and porous, the peninsula on 
which the house stands level, and the forests, which 
form a pleasant feature in its surroundings, are grove 
like, resembling a cultivated park in their shadowy 
depths. The house has been enlarged by addition 
of a wing containing dining room and 25 sleeping 
rooms, the office enlarged and other changes made 
for the convenience of guests. Under its present 
management the Inn has gained the highest praise. 
The table is exceptionally nice. 

This section is specially attractive to the fishernian, 
because of the multitude of small ponds and streams 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 87 • 

adjacent, there being within a circuit of three miles 
over thirty that are recognized as among the best 
trout yielding waters of the Adirondacks. The dot- 
ted lines on the accompanying map of the lands be- 
longing to the association show the carries between 
ponds and lakes. Starting at the "Inn," trips may 
be taken by boat and carry, covering a period of time 
from two hours to an entire day. A favorite trip is 
one starting at the Inn and crossing the following 
ponds: Spring, Green, Hoel, Turtle, Slang, Long, 
West Pine, Pond-with-a-rock-in-it, Rollins, Whey, Big 
Square and Fish Creek Ponds to the Upper Saranac 
Lake, thence back to the Inn. For obvious reasons, 
the hunter with limited time will find this available 
ground. It is easily reached. An excellent house 
renders the isolated position comfortable. It is well 
out in that wilderness where, north, west and south 
streams and ponds cover the tract like crystal beads 
on a net- work of silver. Into this labyrinth come the 
deer who delight in still water and the tender food 
growing at its edge. With them it is a favorite feed- 
ing ground and they find none better even in the far 
west. 

This house was a favorite with President and Mrs. 
Cleveland, and was made their head-quarters during 
their visits to the woods. Dr. S. B. Ward, of Albany, 
is also a regular visitor; and to him the pubdisher is 
indebted for a copy of the map incorporated in the 
large map of the wilderness and shown on page 86. 
Dr. Ward's camp on Markham Point is notably pic- 
turesque and comfortable. A pretty little church on 
the hill back of the hotel, erected in 1885, is open for 
service during the summer. A number of very pretty 
private camps are on the bay west of the house, and 
at various points south. 

Steamers " Saranac" and " Loon" run (connect- 










fef 






v.*yA I'' riiC 




^j 












THE ADIRONDACKS. 89 

ing with trains) from Saranac Inn to Wawbeek, In- 
dian Carry and Saranac Club dock (Bartlett's) at the 
outlet. 

Hotel Wa"Wbeek is on the west side of the Upper 
Saranac near its south end. Capacity about 200. By 
stage and boat from Saranac Inn Station, $1.25. Har- 
low H. Chandler, manager. Post Office address, 
Wawbeek, N. Y. It is of commanding proportions, 
unique in design and pleasing in finish. Its shape is 
that of a Greek cross with the office centrally placed. 
Mr. Chandler, who assumed the management of the 
Wawbeek in 1893, has been associated in the manage- 
ment of some of the most noted hotels in the country, 
including the Windsor, Montreal ; the Ocean House, 
Newport ; the Everett, New York, and Laurel-in-the- 
Pines, at Lakewood, N. J. 

Johnson Island Chapel is about a mile from 
the Wawbeek in a south-easterly direction. Services 
are held here on the Sabbath during the summer. It 
is in charge of Rev. R. G. McCarthy, ' ' The Mission- 
ary of theAdirondacks,"who, although a Presbyterian, 
throws open the chapel doors and desk to all denomi- 
nations, endeavoring when possible to have the serv- 
ices conducted by distinguished visiting clergymen. 

Rustic IjOdg:e is at the south end of the Upper 
Saranac, 2 miles from "Wawbeek," and 3 from Bart- 
lett's. C. H. Wardner, lessee. Boat and stage to 
Saranac Inn Station, $1.50. The place is picturesque, 
a combination of log house with additions of later 
styles and a number of detached cottages in a row 
along at the east facing the lake. Indian Carry 
extends from this point south over the divide to Stony 
Creek Ponds one mile. (Portage of boat and luggage 
75 cents.) The Hiawatha House at the south end 
of the carry on the north side of the first of Stony 
Creek Ponds will provide for about 25 guests. 



90 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



Stony Creek Ponds are three in number. The 
first and third are small ; the middle one about a mile 
the longest way. Sometimes called "Spectacle" 
Ponds from their fancied resemblance to these useful 
articles. Stony Creek, applied to the outlet of the 
Ponds, is a misnomer. It is about three miles long, 
slow, sluggish, winding, and difficult of navigation, 
making it advisable to continue by road 2 miles from 
the Hiawatha House to Azton, a little below where 
Stony Creek enters the Raquette River. Axton is 
the outgrowth of the lumbering operations of Dodge, 
Meigs & Co., creating quite a village here in the heart 
of this wild region. James L. Jacobs of Tupper 
Lake is general manager for the cornpany. A stage 
runs daily from this point through the woods to Tup- 
per Lake, 14 miles, fare $1.50. An extension of the 
Northern Adirondack Railroad is planned to cover 
the same way soon and a large sportsmans* hotel to 
be built here in the near future. The draw-over from 
Saranac Lake to this point is $1.25 for boat and lug- 
gage. For I, 2 or 3 passengers $1.50, and 50 cents for 
each additional person. 

Raquette River is one of the most interesting 
streams in the Wilderness. Portions are very beau- 
tiful and wonderful in their solemn beauty. In the 
shallows it is amber, at a greater depth red, then a 
rich brown, then almost like ink. So still it runs that 
it seems more like a river of black glass than water. 
Great, shaggy, twisted cedars line its banks, their 
branches reaching out and downward toward the wa- 
ter, the sides away from the river limbless and ver- 
dureless. In places it has undermined them until they 
iDcnd over and stand curled upward with the even sweep 
of a scimeter, while the smaller limbs, seemingly 
alarmed at their too near approach to the water, turn 
back upon themselves and hang in great hooks and 



THE ADIRONDACKS. Ql 

solid festoons from their leaning supports, the whole 
mirrored in the glassy surface where you seem to 
float midway between the heavens above and the 
heavens below. The stream is navigable for boats 
of considerable draft between Long and Tupper 
Lakes. It is probable that in time a line of small 
steamers --vill run the length of this stream to con- 
nect with steamers on Long Lake for the South- 




up THERSC8JETTE. 

west Lake Region. From where Stony Creek enters, 
it is 9 miles down the river to Sweeney Carry and ii 
miles further to Tupper Lake. 

Raquette Falls is 7 miles above Stony Creek 
mouth. The water tumbles here about 15 feet. 
Above the Falls is a mile of cascades and rapids. 
Raquette Falls Hotel will furnish dinners at 50 
cents and lodging if desired, Martin Talbot, pro- 
prietor. P. O. address, Axton. Here the voyageur 
may be carried over the intervening ly^ miles to navi- 
gable waters ab^ve, comfortably seated on a buck- 
board for the sum of 50 cents. Transportation of 
boat and luggage will cost $1.50. Five miles above 
Raquette Falls Cold River, coming down from 
Mt, Seward en the east, joins the Raquette, furnishing 
by far the greater portion of the united streams. 



92 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

Something over a mile further is the foot of Long 
Lake, for which see index. 



Sweeney Carry extends from Wawbeek west 
three miles to the Raquette River. For transporta- 
tion of boat and luggage across, the price is $2.cx). 
Parties of three can ride over on a buckboard for 50 
cents apiece. 

Trorablee's is on the Raquette, at the west end 
of the Sweeney Carry The house is small, affording 
accommodations for only six or eight people, but it 

gives a very ac- 
cefJtable dinner. 
Mail daily through 
the season. Open 
from May ist to 
November. Oliver 
Tromblee, pr'o- 
.^l!lll;.:i>iyilJJ prietor. Post-office 
address Wawbeek, 
N. Y. Buckboards 
can be had here 
by east-coming 
passengers for the 
three mile trip 
over, and carrying wagons for the boats and luggage. 
See appendix for additional particulars. The river 
above this point is delightfully picturesque, marks of 
the desolation caused by the flooded flats not being so 
apparent here as further down. Trolling for pickerel is 
the popular sport and yields most satisfactory results. 
It is about 8 miles from Tromblee' s Landing by the 
new road to Tupper Lake Station. By river to the 
foot of Tupper Lake the distance is about 1 1 miles. 

The Lower Raquette once the most beautiful of 
rivers is to-day a standing protest against the out- 
rages perpetrated in the name of utility — where, as 




'•'^. 



AT SWEENEY CARRY. 



THE ADlRnNDACKb. QJ 

the result of damming the streams, a broad stretch 
of grandly wooded valley, whose equal for quiet 
beauty could be found nowhere else in the whole 
Adirondack wilderness, has been alternately flooded 
and drained — that forsooth the logs could be floated 
to market — until the once fragrant and shadowy 
depths is but an expanse of hideous slime-covered flats 

and malaria- 
breeding pits 
where the skele- 
tons of drowmed 
trees totter to 
their fall or lie 
white and ghast- 
ly on the mirey 
ground. Is the 
preservation o f 
the Adirondacks. 
merely a matter 
of sentiment ? 
The desolation 
is greatest as the 
foot of Tupper Lake is approached, extending thence 
to Tupper Lake village, the terminus of the Northern 
Adirondack R. R. 

Tupper Lake hangs like a bag on its gathering 
string. The Raquette River is the string. It is 1,554. 
feet above tide, nearly seven miles long and three 
broad. It has 25 islands, some level and covered with 
thrifty trees, others barren and rocky, rising steeply 
from the water. County Island is the largest, being- 
nearly a mile in length, and has on its west side a 
precipice known as the Devil's Pulpit. The surround- 
ing country is wild but not grand with mountain 
heights. Mount Morris, at the southeast, is the most 
important elevation of the section. Mount Morris 
House is on the east side of the lake near the outlet, 




THE DROWMED LANDS. 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



3 



I 2 

SCAtx or Milts , 



ruPPtH 

L,ARC 



'S 



O ' <€ MOODY IP.IXI 

toiiBt Houji — occupaTicy 
uncertain at 
this writing. 
Redside Camp, on a 
^ high bluff, where Red- 
side Brook empties into 
the lake, is a half mile south 
of the Mt. Morris House. 
Capacity 50. Opens June 
ist. The house stands in 
a thrifty grove of second 
growth timber and com- 
mands a wnde and beautiful 
view of the lake and the 
country beyond. Martin 
Moody, proprietor. Per- 
haps Mrs. Moody has more 
to do with the providing 
for guests than "Mart," but w^hoever the responsible 
party may be, they furnish good, wholesome, substan- 
tial fare to make the heart of the hunter and fisherman 
glad. The Post-office called " Moody" is located 
here also, and the proprietor of the house is post- 
master. Mr. Moody has been noted for years as 
'•The Mighty Hunter," and where he fails in knowl- 



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THE ADIKONDACKS. 95-6-7 

edge as to the best place for game or the best way of 
securing it, there is little hope that others will succeed. 
See appendix for rates, etc. 

Tupper Lake House, which stood on the west 
shore of the lake near its south end, was burned April 
12, '94. LitetLfield Park is in Franklin County, 
the south one-third of Township 25, southeast of 
Tupper Lake. It is held as a private preserve by the 
owner, Edward H. Litchfield of Kew York, an en- 
thusiast on the question of the propagation 'of exotic 
game ; and to this end devoting money and all the re- 
sources of the territory owned by him here to that 
purpose. He believes that elk will thrive here where 
they were once common, the last wild one it is believed 
having been killed in 1S30 near Saranac Lake. 

Hog River Falls comes picturesquely down over 
the face of the broken rocks at the head of Tupper Lake. 
A ruined saw-mill here marks the site of a past ' 'effort" 
showing a considerable town with public squares 
and buildings — on paper. Little Tupper Lake is 
an easy half day's journey at the south, the most 
tedious'part of this way being the two-mile carry from 
Bog River into Round Pond, where the thrifty 
wagoner will charge you $2 for boat and luggage. 
A little house fu; nishes accommodations to such as 
may need. Beyond by boat and trail, the Raquette 
Lake region is reached. 

Tupper Lake Village, terminus of the N. A. R. 
R., IS on Raquette Pond, which was created by a 
dam built two miles below Tupper Lake, to facilitate 
lumbering in this section. The town is a revelation 
of sudden growth, interesting to visit but not a place 
where the Adirondack visitor would ordinarily care to 
remain for long. When John Hurd built his road south 
tothispomtto subserve his vast lumber interests, this 



yS THE ADIRONDACKS. 

was practically virgin forest. The first train raii 
hrough July i st, 1 890. Now there are grouped about its 
cerminus a hundred and fifty buildings of various sizes- 
and conditions, churches, hotels, (Hotel Altamont is 
the best here,) three school houses, and two steam 
saw-mills, with capacity for sawing 245,000 feet of 
lumber per day. A steamboat runs from this 
point to the various hotels on Tupper Lake, fare 50 
cents to $1. Through train service from New York 
is maintained here during the season over the A. & 
St L. R. R. The Northern Adirondack RaU- 
road reaches to this point from Moira (Gateway 14) 
13 miles west of Malone on the O. & L. C. 
The distance is 56 
miles. The Blue Moun- 
tain House (P. O. Santa 
Clara), near Blue Mountain 
of the North, is four miles- 
southwest of Spring Cove, 
27 miles from Moira (daily 
stage 75 cents); will accom- 
modate 50. Board is 
about $6 to $9 per week. 
H. Phelps, proprietor. Ex- 
cept the Blue Mountain 
region there is little of in- 
terest in Gateway 14. The 
railroad was built as a 
meansof reaching the val- 
uable lumber of this north- 
ern region and was pushed 
^vith splendid energy — which would have been 
admirable but for the irreparable injury it has 
worked — right into the heart of the wilderness to lay 
waste and destroy. Not only has the great timber 
that once stood along the line gone but the smaller 
trees are now rabidly disappearing into the insati- 




THu. AL/IRONDACKS. 



99 



able maw of the ill-smelling charcoal kilns, which 
form a valuable part of the equipment of this road. 
With the opening of the A. &. St. L. , this line forms 
no necessary part of the way to important points. 

Cnildwold (station) is on the A. & St. L. R. R., 

about six miles west of Tupper Lake. A plank road 
extends from the station west and north through^ a 
magnificent forest of hard wood to Massa\l^epie 
liake, the fountain head of Grasse River, one of the 
best trout streams in northern New York, and a noted 
resort for deer. Mr. Addison Child, to whom this sec- 




IIDWOID STATlOrt 



tion owes much of its prosperity, and Mr. Henry G. 
Dorr, of Boston, together, own the whole western 
half of township 6, and have preserved, under the 
state law, with the title of CMldwold Park, 



f . 





THE ADIRONDACKS. 



a gamo and pleasure park of 5.000 acres, embracing 
Lake Massawepie and 5 contributary sheets of water 
that encircle it. 

Hotel Cliildwold and cottages stand on the east 
shore of Massawepie Lake, five miles north of Child- 
wold Station. Accommodations for 300 guests. Wm. 
F. Ingold, of the Magnolia Springs Hotel, Florida, 
is manager and de- 
servedly successful, 
bringing to the 
work not only ener- 
gy and experience 
but a commendable 
enthusiasm that ex- 
alts the science of 
hotel keeping into 
the realms of high 
art. The house 
stands on high 
ground consider- 
ably above the wa- 
ter, with piazzas on 
three sides, and a 
belvedere, rising 78 
feet above the lake. 
It is flanked by a number of attractive Queen Anne 
cottages in the service of the hotel. It has natural at- 
tractions of broken and picturesque wilderness sur- 
roundings and a broad, beautiful lake with numerous 
small ponds adjacent. Boats and hunting and fishing 
supplies can be obtained here with competent men for 
camp or trail. Childwold, with the opening of the A. 
& St. L. Railroad, has been made easily accessible. 
Convenient service is maintained from New York and 
Boston. Wagner sleeping cars run from both cities 
every week day (Sunday, also, from New York) to 




WM. F. INGOLD. 



I02 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



Childwold Station without change. Stage fare from 
station to hotel, $i , including baggage. An illustrated 
pamphlet will be sent free on application to the man- 
ager. For rates and additional particulars see page 255. 
Tlie Pond View House is on the east shore of 
Catamount Pond (See map), with capacity for 100; 
House open the year round. E. P. Gale, proprietor. 

This was noted for 
years as a house of 
entertainment for 
sportsmen. 1 1 i s 
provided with mod- 
ern conveniences — 
which the hardy 
sportsman of old 
did not consider 
necessary to his 
comfort or happi- 
ness — a n d provis- 
ions made to meet 
the more exacting 
require m e n t s of 
tourists and sum- 
mer visitors. Boats 
E. p. GALE and competent 

guides can be secured here and all the necessaries of 
hunting and fishing can be furnished by the proprie- 
tor. A large farm connected with the hotel supplies 
fresh milk and eggs, with vegetables in their season. 
The Post-Office, known as Gale, is in one of the build- 
ings connected with the house, and the proprietor 
of the house is postmaster. The place as a whole 
presents an appearance of rustic comfort which, with 
the reasonable terms offered, insures a very satisfac- 
tory patronage. For price of board, etc. , see page 256. 
Six miles southwest is Childwold Station. 



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THE ADIRONDACKS. 



One and one-half miles east of Gale is DoTrney's 
I«anding, which is eight miles below Raquette Pond. 
The stream is navigable from above to this point 
(except for short carries around falls and rapids), and 




POND VIEW HOUSE. 



maybe "done" for pleasure or in case of dire ne- 
cessity. This section can be reached via Potsdam 
(Gateway No. 13). There are small houses at inter- 
vals along the road and river, where entertainment 
can be had at from $1 to $1.50 per day. The " Kil- 
dare Club." of New York, composed of members of 
the Vanderbilt family and friends, has a hunting lodge 
near Jordan Lake and a park of several thousand 
acres surrounding it. Cllildwold is 36 miles from 
Potsdam and three miles north of Childwold Park 
House. 









'^^ 



' Ji 






I 



i K '- 










K 



''^4t 






'r 



f 




•'i*^'^ 



CHAPTER V 



Ray Brook, 



Lake Placid, North Elba and 
( LEAR Lake. 



Ray Brook House is three miles east of Sara- 
laac Lake, Open all the year. Duncan Cameron, 
proprietor. Post-Office (Ray Brook) and telegraph 

office in the hotel. 
The air of roominess 
and generous space in 
the proportions here 
is quite taking to the 
average seeker after 
rest. The fare will 
be found alike gener- 
ous and satisfactory. 
The house is well 
furnished, substantial 
and wholes© me 
throughout. Of 
special interest is the 
brook that gives name 
to the house, and the 
adjacent ponds, be- 
longing to che pro- 
prietor, who has stocked them with trout and holds 
them as a preserve for the use of himself and guests, 
affording excellent sport at all seasons. Guests given 
to angling will find a kindred spirit in thje proprietor, 
who is an enthusiast and an expert in that line. 
Camp supplies can be found here and good service- 
able teams for long or short drives to other hunting 
or fishing resorts. Trains on the new road stop close 
by Ray Brook. Carriage to the house, free. For ad- 
ditional particulars see page 259. 




DUNCAN CAMERON. 



THE ADIRONDACKS. IO7 

The Saranac & Lake Placid Railroad is lo 

miles long, terminating about a mile south of Lake 
Placid. Cars of the Chateaugay and the A. & St. L. 
railroad run through without change during the 
summer. Local fare, $i ; round trip, $1.50. From 
New York, $9. 80. Transfer from terminus to Mirror 
Lake, Grand View, Stevens and Lake Placid houses, 
25 cents each person ; same for trunks. Arrange with 
agent on the train. Work was commenced on the 
road May ist, 1893, and passengers carried through 
July 15th following. C. E. Arnold is President; O. 
Weaver, Supt. ; A. J. Voyer, Sec. and Treas. ; Gen- 
eral Office at Lake Placid. 

At Lake Placid Station stages are taken for 
Lake Placid hotels, Adirondack Lodge, Ames' and 
Cascade Lakes. 

Lake Placid (village) is the outgrowth of a senti- 
ment — love of the beautiful in nature. Not that its 
existence argues necessarily that all who live there 
are dominated by this idea, but those who come from 
afar must be cared for, and the village that has grown 
up here is the result. When, in 1873, the writer first 
visited Lake Placid, the old Lake Placid House, known 
generally as "Brewster's," and "Nash's," the little 
red farm house, still standing at the lake shore south- 
east of the Stevens House, where the only habitations 
in this section. Now a thrifty village with churches 
and schoolhouses line the shores of Mirror Lake and 
the road to the south, while summer cottages and 
princely hotels bid welcome to a host of summer vis- 
itors. Mirror Lake, along the west side of which 
the village has grown to about one mile long by one- 
third of a mile wide. 

Lake Placid (the watery part thereof) is over at 
the north, and although distant from Mirror Lake but 
a little way, the two are effectually separated by a 



THE ADIRONDACK^. 



lO 







ridge that run s between . It 
is an oblong, something over 
four miles in length and 
about two broad, measuring 
through or between the isl 
ands, of which there are 
three, called respectively 
Hawk, Moose and Buck. 
Haw^k is small, but Moose 
and Buck are large, beau- 
tiful islands in a line from the first toward the south- 
west, the three dividing the sheet into what are lo- 
cally known as the "East" and "West" lakes. Its 
altitude is 1,863 feet above tide. 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



Ill 



The Grand View House stands on the high 
ground rising west of Mirror Lake, with capacity for 
over 200 guests. For rates, etc., see page 258. Allen, 
Todd & Irons, proprietors. Mr. Allen is one of the 
pioneers of the hotel 
men here, the other 
members of the firm 
younger in the busi- 
ness but all pulling 
happily together have 
made the house a suc- 
c e s s. The manage- 
ment is unconven- 
tional, ergo, popular. 
The house is appro- 
priately enough 
named the "Grand 
Vie A'," for not only 
does it command the 
view north, east, and 
south, common to 
other hotels here, but 

also the quiet of spreading forests towards the west 
and the mountains that lie about far-away Saranac. 

T'r-'i Stevens House, built in 1886, is on the high 
laa 1 that separates Mirror Lake from Lake Placid. J. 
A. & G. A. Stevens, proprietors. This is one of the 
great hotels of the Adirondacks. It has a front of 
o\^er 200 feet, is four stories high, with piazzas on 
every side, affording choice of wind or sun, and with 
anr-jx and cottages affords accommodations for nearly 
400. The parlors and dining-room have each an 
area of about 3,000 square feet. It is lighted by elec- 
tricity. A hydraulic pump forces water to all parts 
of the house, and with hose attachment, is guard 
against possible fire. The bedding, carpets, etc. , came 
from Arnold, Constable & Co. Telegraph office in 




HtNRY ALLEN. 



112 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



the house. This house stands 200 feet above Lake 
Placid, whose surface is 1,863 feet above tide and com- 
mands tindoubtedly the most comprehensive view of 
any hotel in the Adirondacks. To the energy and far 
sightedness of the proprietors, who wer« the pioneers 
in the new Lake Placid, is due much of the prosperity 
of this place. They have triumphed over fire and 

tornado and their house 

is an assured success. 

'%0^ Personally they are de- 

^""l^^^l^^ serving of success. The 

JH| senior member of the 

^mm ^^^ ^^ ^^ a c k n o w 1- 

W^ * edged authority on 

huntfng matters to 
whom even the guides 
defer, and the junior, 
fresh from legislative 
honors, has no reason 
to doubt the estimation 
in which he is held by 
his fellow townsmen. 
The Messrs Stevens 
GEORGE A. STEVENS. ^ro owncrs of consider- 

able real estate lying along shore and between 
Mirror Lake and Lake Placid. Several cottages 
stand here, others will be built soon, and, in the 
near future, one may reasonably expect to see 
this entire slope occupied by elegant villas or cozy 
cottages, as individual taste may dictate. This is a 
very desirable place for a summer cottage, being 
sightly and cool ; w^hile its elevated position and the 
nature of the soil places it above any suggestion of 
unwholesome air or conditions. The Lake Placid 
House is at the head of Mirror Lake, east of the 
Stevens House. Open June ist, G. W. Baldwin, pro- 
prietor. See appendix for particulars. 




Trt£ ADikONDACKS. 



113 



The Ruisseauxnont is on the east shore of 

Lake Placid, 2 miles from the station. Capacity 200. 



1 




i»i 


^9 




T. Edmund Krumbholz, 
manager. The house 
was built and opened 
first in 1892. It is in a 
niche carved out of the 
virgin forest, standing 
on high ground which 
slopes rapidly down 
from it to the lake shore. 
Facing westerly, it looks 
out across the broad lake 
between the southern 
peninsula and Moose Isl- 
and. 

The manager ranks 
high as an entertainer. 
Stages run to and from all trains, fare 50 cents. P. O.^ 
Lake Placid. For additional particulars see page 253] 



T. EDMUND KRUMBHOLZ. 




S ?! 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 1 1 5-6-7 

WMte Face Inn is on the west shore of Lake 
Placid almost directly opposite the Ruisseaumont. 
Capacity 150. The house is about 40 feet above the 
surface of the lake, almost surrounded by native for- 
est trees. In front, a broad passage leads into the 
East Lake. Through this is seen the striking bluff 
known as the Devil's Pulpit, the mountains around 
Wilmington Pass, and in the distance, Marcy and 
other peaks. The West Lake, stretching northeast, 
forms the middle-ground of a picture of which the 
distance is the rugged and noble contour of White- 
face — a view pronounced by many the finest of this 
famous peak. Behind and on either hand is the 
forest into which go pleasant walks and bridle paths, 
one of the latter extending to the top of Colborn 
Peak, a half mile distant. The house is three stories, 
with spacious rooms, and wide, double piazzas on 
the north, south and east sides, and with additional 
guests' rooms in a line of connecting cottages at the 
north. The management is vested in Mrs. C. L. Child 
of "The Pines," Lakewood, New Jersey's celebrated 
winter resort. The name stands among friends as a 
guarantee of good fare and management. Camp 
liOng^cbamps, south of Whiteface Inn, harbors a 
summer recreation class of young ladies studying 
French under Mademoiselle Debray-Longchamps. 
Castle Rustico is on the west shore opposite Moose 
Island. For rates apply to the proprietor, W. F. 
Leggett. 

Under Cliff is on the west shore well up toward 
the head of the lake, but easily accessible from the 
village by the numerous trips of the little steamer 
Ida. The woods are here unbroken save a park-like 
opening among the trees just sufficient to give place 
for the large central building, a number of small 
cottages, the boat house and Casino, and the commo- 



Il8 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

dious dining ha.l, which make up this attractive resort. 
Back toward the west stretches the virgin forest 
cUmbmg to the top of Mt. McKenzie. Near by are 
pleasant coves and streams and woodsy paths. Na- 
ture made the place charming with many desirable 
features which a true lover of nature has utilized and 
adapted to our conventional needs and tastes. Origi- 
nally the private camp of a physician who felt the 
need of occasional summer rest, its comforts came to 
be shared by patients who were friends, then by 
others who were not patients but were attracted by 
the beauty and hospitality of the place, until, making 
a virtue of what seemed almost a necessity, the camp 
was thrown open to the public generally, but with 
such circumspection as to ensure agreeable social en- 
vironment. Under the fostering care of its owner, 
Dr. Chas. D. Alton, of Hartford, Conn., it has grown 
to meet the comfortable needs of 75 guests and yet 
retain the agreeable features of a large private camp. 
Some early spoke of it, through error, as a sanitarium, 
but that title and character has, from the beginning, 
been vigorously avoided. 

Cliubb River, the outlet of Lake Placid, runs 
toward the southwest, and in circling around towards 
the east approaches quite near to Paradox Pond, and 
soon after joins with the Au Sable to pass through 
Wilmington Notch. 

"Wliiteface Mountain stands in the north at 
the head of Lake Placid, pyramidal in form, its 
base thickly clothed with spruce and balsam, its head 
of naked granite, seamed with deep rifts, rugged and 
broken in outline. Early in Autumn and late in 
Spring, it wears its white hood of snow, that obviously 
earned for it its name of "Whiteface" from thejndian. 
Its summit is 3,008 feet above Lake Placid — 4,871 feet 
above the ocean. The ascent is made by leaving the 
lake at its head and following a precipitous trail 3 
miles to the summit. Trails also run from Wilming- 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



119 



ton, at the northeast, and from Franklin Falls, at the 
northwest. It affords unquestionably the finest rrwoun- 
tain view in the Adirondacks, giving in different quar- 
ters, cultivated valley and lowland, at the north 
and east ; broken mountain ranges at the south, and 
the broad lake-spangled region toward the west, 
with beautiful Lake Placid like a mirror at its feet. 



*' John Brown's body lies a-moulderine'in the grave, 
And his soul goes marching on."— 07d Son^. 

Jolin Bro"WTi, "The old man of Osawatomie," 
came to North Elba and secured a large tract of land 
proposing to es- 
tablish a home 
w^hich should be 
a refuge for the 
persecuted 
black, and here 
undoubtedly ma- 
tured the plot by 
which negro 
slavery was to be 
wiped out in the 
blood of white 
men. Here he 
gathered quite a 
company about 
him, then in the 
fullness of time — 
October 17; 1859- 
at Harper's Fer- 
ry, struck the 
first hard blow at 
slavery in this 
country which, 
like the smell of 
blood to wild 
beasts, rendered 




c/^^^ryiy (/h^^ijiyny* 



I20 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

any settlement of the question short of a resort to arms 
impossible. The whole is history now. There were 
22 in all, white and black, with the old man when he 
opened fire. When he was forced to surrender, one 
son was among the dead, a second lay mortally 
wounded by his side. Condemned and hanged as one 
of the greatest criminals of the age, yet, when his 
body was borne north to be buried at his old home 
among the mountains it was as a triumphal march, 
for cities were draped in mourning, and bells tolled 
all along the way ! And here one terribly cold day in 
bleak December a few who had loved the old man laid 
his body away in the frozen ground, for he had said 
" when I die, bury me by the big rock^ where I love to 
sit and read the word of God." Then his large family 
was dispersed, the widow finally selling the farm 
of 244 acres for $800. Later, Kate Field made a pil- 
grimage to the grave and told the story, and eighteen 
New York men and one Boston woman added a hun- 
dred dollars each that the John Brown farm and grave 
might be secured to the public forever. The names 
are Kate Field, Isaac H. Bailey, John E. Wil- 
liams, William H. Lee, George A. Robbins, George 
Cabot Ward, Henry Clews, Randolph Martin, Le 
Grand B. Cannon, Chas. S. Smith, S. B. Chittenden, 
Isaac Sherman, Jackson S. Schultz, Elliott C. Cowdin, 
Thomas Murphy, Charles G. Judson, Laken H. Wales, 
Sinclair Tousey, Horace B. Claflin and "a Boston 
woman." 

The Joliu Brown Farm is about two miles south- 
east of Lake Placid. A half mile drive through the 
open lane and field, brings you to the house and 
grave. The house is weather-beaten and old, but if 
you want a wholesome country meal you can get it 
there, and lodging also in an old-fashioned country 
bed at a moderate price, with most cheerful attendance 
to your other wants. If you desire a souvenir of the 




THE ADIRONDACKS. 

place in line of photograph or book, youwi'l ridlhei^ 
here in various forms with maple sugar ahvays ^; 
son, and a flower, perhaps, from beside the Big 11. - 
that bears across its face in great letters, • Jol i 
Brown, 1859." • ■> , -, 

The Grave is marked by an old, time-stamed head- 
stone, which once did duty over the 
remains of John Brown's grandfather 
in Canton, Connecticut. The corners 
are chipped off and defaced so that 
parts of the letters are lost. The upper 
half is in the quaint characters of "ye 
olden time," the lower of a more re- 
cent date ; the face bears the f ollow- 
•ng inscription : 

" In memory of capt'° John Brow 
Who Died At Newyork Sep' Ye 3 
i776in the 42 5'ear of his Age. 

"John Brown Born May 9 iSoo -zcas e.recitUa at 
Charleston, Va, Dec. 2. 1859." . ,j ■, 

" Oliver Brown Born Mar. 9, 1839, was killed at 
Harpers Ferry Oct. 17. 1859." 

On the back is the following : 

" In memory of Frederick son of John and Dianth 
Brown, Born Dec 21. 1830 and murdered at Osawa- 
tomie, Kansas, Aug 30, 1856 for his adherence to the 
cause of Freedom." 

"Watson Brown, Born Oct 7, 1S35 was wounded 
at Harpers Ferry & died Oct. 19, 1S59." 

Beside the older is a newer grave containing the 
body of Watson Brown, brought here and laid near 
the father, October 12, 1882, after remaimng unbuned 
for nearly twenty-three years. Considered by the au- 
thorities of Virginia simplv as that of a cnmmal it 
was given after death to the Medical College at Win- 
chester, and there preserved as an anatomical speci- 



12^ 



THE ADIKO.NDACKS. 



tnen — the mother appealing in vain for the privilege 
of giving it Christian burial. Later, when the town 
was occupied by the Union forces, it was carried off 
by an Indiana surgeon, and kept by him as a curi- 
osity until in i8§2, when he informed the survivors 
of its whereabouts and offered to restore it for more 
decent interment. From Indiana the poor buft'eted 
body went to the mother in Ohio, and was finally 
brought here, and laid to rest beside the " big rock," 
where he had played as a boy while learning strange 
theories of "duty." 

A wooden box covers the headstone, secured by 
lock and key ordinarily, to protect it from the asthetic 
relic hunter who usually comes with ^ hammer and 
chisel. The box will be removed to allow of th-^ m- 
spection of the stone by the visitor, and of course the 
risitor will not allow the little service to go unre- 
warded. 



p^'siii^r^v. 










mm&'^ 



Mountain View House, more commonly known 
as "Ames," is 5^2 niiles east of Lake Placid 
Station. Will accommodate about thirty-five guests. 
Gardiner & George, proprietors. Post Office, Cas- 
cadeville. Telegraph in the house. This house has 
earned a well-deserved reputation for homelike com- 
fort and hospitality, and in addition to considera- 



THK AI' I U ( • M > At K S. 12') 

ble transient custom, gets its full quota of those who, 
for sanitary reasons, seek the healing air of this high 
plain. The accommodations are good, the fare whole- 
some and satisfying, and tht; service very pleasant 
smd agreeable. 

Cascade Lake House is 4 miles east of Ames', 
Capacity 100. For rates and particulars see appen- 
dix. E. M. Weston, proprietor. P. O. Cascadeville. 
The hotel and. its accompanying buildings is ' ' Cas- 
cadeville." It stands on about the only available land 
found in the notch between the Upper (west) 
and Lower Cascade Lakes, opposite the Cascade 
whioh, in the rainy season is a torrent, in time of 
drouth a tiny thread hanging down over the face of 
the clifif a thousand feet above. Stage passengers 
usually stop here for dinner in entering or going out 
by way of Westport. 

Cascade Lakes are 2,038 feet above tide lying 
between Long Pond Mountain, which rises abruptly 
along their south side and Pitchoff Mountain on the 
north, the road passing east along the north side on the 
debris that has fallen from the cliffs above. Origin- 
ally one. lake it has been bridged by the matter brought 
down by Cascade Brook to form two. The Upper 
Lake is y^ of a mile long. The Lower, much nar- 
rower, is something over a mile in extent. Both are 
deep in places and quite noted for trout. East of 
Cascade Lakes the road finds its way down into 
Keene Valley and places better reached from Gateway 
No. 3. 

* -;:• -;f •«• *■ -:f -k- -k- * 

Soutb. From Ames' the vieAv is one of singular 
beauty and breadth. The land slopes away do\\T 
into the valley, then rises in long, sweeping lines to 
the foothills, thence to higher ridges and peaks, and 
finally to the grand heights of Mclntire, the central 
figure in this mountain j^icture, flanked as it is by 




ADIRONDACK LODGE, 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 12^ 

Wallface on the west guarding the famous Indian 
Pass, and Mt. Colden on the east across the wild 
notch where repose the waters of Avalanch Lake. 
OutUned against the broad chest of Mclntire — in re- 
ality a spur from its side — is a lower summit, Mt. Jo, 
sometimes called the Bear. Between this and the 
main mountain, more than 2,000 feet above tide, rests 
Clear Lake, a lovely sheet of water of about 30 
acres in extent, with shores of Avhite sand and a bor- 
der of shrubs and trees remainmg in all their native 
beauty. 

Adirondack Lodg'e is here, nine miles from Lake 
Placid Station. Capacity 100. (For rates and other 
particulars see appendix.) Henry Van Hoevenbergh, 
proprietor. P. O. North Elba. To get here, drive 
nearly 4 miles east from the station (to a point % mile 
west of Ames') and turn south in a road which will 
take you by open field two miles, then through dense for- 
ests three more, to your destination. Guide boards 
every half mile measure the distance as you go. The 
" Lodge" stands on the east shore of Clear Lake al- 
most hidden among the trees save where its high ob- 
servation tower lifts its head above their tops. The 
Lodge is one of the most unique and picturesque 
structures in the country ; a resort for nature's lovers, 
where nature's handiwork has been respected. It is 
of logs, 96 feet front, 36 feet deep, and three stories 
high, with a rear wing of almost equal size. Forming 
a part of the building is the substantial tower, also of 
logs, rising above the tree tops and affording such a 
view as can be found at no other house in the Adiron- 
dacks, for with a widely extended vision, no sign of 
civilization can be discerned. A broad piazza sur- 
rounds the lower portion of the house, its upper deck 
reached from the rooms above or by rustic outside 
stairs. Everything about the house or grounds evin- 
ces the cultivated taste of the owner, for the sam3- 



126 THE ADIKONDACKS. 

sentiment that protecied hoary tree and gracefvu 
shrub ahke, made cunning joints among the logs, and 
left their rugged bark intact so that every pilaster, 
balustrade or railing is still clothed in the rich brown 
covering that nature gave it. AVithin, the same good 
taste prevails. The walls are plastered, to be sure, 
and noise-deadened, but paint and Brussels carpeting 
are tabooed as not in keeping with the place. The 
furniture is of hard wood, plain and substantial. The 
beds are of the best. Fireplaces make the principal 
rooms comfortable on occasion. An electric annun- 
ciator puts sleeping rooms and office in communica- 
tion. The windows are large single panes of plate 
glass in swinging sash. A well at the door with old- 
fashioned wheel and bucket furnishes the best tonic 
to be found here — or anywhere else. A lawn tennis 
and croquet ground is in an opening near the lake ; 
swings and arbors among the trees, and boats on the 
water afford means of quiet comfort and amusement. 
During the season a stage runs regularly to the 
railroad or to connect with the regular line at the 
Transfer Station, Guides, tents and suitable cloth- 
ing for camp or tramp may be obtained at the house. 
Trails to the wild lakes of the deeper forests and 
to the summits of the mountains radiate from this point. 
To the top of Mount Jo. is a fifteen minute scram- 
ble — and a breath-taking one it is as you near the 
summit, too, — but from the outlook is seen one of the 
most charming low mountain views known to the 
writer. To Indian Pass ( Summit Rock) is 6 miles, 
from which point Lake Henderson,— 5 miles beyond 
and 1,300 feet below — can be seen. Close by Lake 
Henderson is the ' ' Ruined Village " now headquarters 
of the Adirondack Club. To the top of Mount 
Marcy the distance is 73^ miles. To top of Mcln- 
tire about 41^ miles ; between the two is Mt. 
Colden, a cone-b'ke peak with the silvery 



HE ADIRONDACKS. 



127 



track of the avalanche down its western face. 

Avalancbe Lake the wildest lake in the woods, 

lies between Mt. Mclntire and Mt. Golden, 5 miles 

from Adirondack 
Lodge. Its altitude 
is 2,846 feet above tide. 
Its waters are cold and 
deep. It is a half-mile 
'^*1 ^J^iy:jyvf-^^'^^J in length and but a 

mm '^' -■^"'- \ '"^ ■'^■§d' f^w rods wide, the dark 
'^ ^ - , •■ ' Uv- rock rising almost per- 

pendicular for many 
Eiv u^ c^ M^ ^^^^ upward on either 

i/'m "~*^A-v^JI side. The trail, such as 

it is, runs along the west 
side, at one point de- 
scending to the water's 
edge, the place rendered 
passable by means of a 
floating log anchored 
alongside the vertical 
wall. A remarkable 
trap dike here shows a sectionof Mount Golden, split 
downward for a thousand feet, its out-flowing rocks 
nearly bridging the lake. 

Lake Golden is a half mile south of the foot of 
Avalanche Lake. Between the two is a small moun- 
tain of debris which came doMm the side of Mount 
Golden in some ancient land-slide, .imprisoning the 
waters of the upper lake. This probably, next to 
Avalanche Lake, gives the wildest water view in the 
wilderness. Its outlet is through the Opalescent 
River which, lower down, becomes the North River, 
and still lower, the Hudson. On the west shore is a 
log house belonging to the Adirondack Glub where a 
forester is kept \o guard the interests of the Associa- 
tion and see that laws respecting the preservation of 




AVALANCHE LAKE FROM NORTH. 



r^-<^^^: X'SX ^^iM. iS.v.'if^'" 




THE ADIRONDACKS. I2g 

game and fish are properly carried out. North of this 
log camp a few rods, is an open camp where parties 
going or comin may make themselves reasonably 
comfortable for the night. 

Marcy Trail leads past the foot of Lake Colden. 
Adirondack "The Ruined village" is 7 miles west. 
The "round trip" from Adirondack Lodge is as we 
have come to this point thence west to the Ruined 
village and back to the Lodge through Indian Pass — 
a total of about 25 miles. The trip should be broken 
by stopping over at the Club House at Adirondack, 
where entertainment can be had for a night. 

Mount Marcy (summit) is 5 miles from the foot of 
Lake Colden. The trail is quite difficult in places 
leading up along the little stream which is the outlet 
of liake Tear-of-tlie-Clouds resting something 

over a half-mile 
from the top of 
Mount Marcy 
and 4,321 feet 
above tide. This 
is the highest 
body of flowing 
water in the 
State and the 
pond-source of 
the Hudson 
river. It is but 
a few rods in 
extent, sur- 
rounded by a 
coarse bog, 
tremulous over unknown depths of black muck. Its 
level floor is black as ink, thinly covered with the clear 
water through which occasional snail-shells shine white 
as snow. About the little pool, stunted trees make an 
unequal fight for life against the cold. A little higher on 




LAKE TEAR-OF-THE-CLOUDS. 



I30 TUF. ADIKUNDACKS. 

the mountain the fight is given tip and at the top only 
lichens and. hardy Alpine grasses find refuge in shel- 
tered places. If breathless and athirst when near the 
top, you may find on the west side a huge pocket in the 
rock filled with soft, spongy moss. Press the moss 
aside and the space will be full of pure cold water. 
The upper thousand feet is bare. It is naked rock the 
farthest down on the south-west side ; the west side has 
more the appearance of a hillside pasture than a 
mountain above vegetation, its partial covering of 
Alpine grasses and other plants giving it that appear- 
ance. Tlie ascent of Marcy may be made from 
Adirondack Lodge which is nearest of any house 
of entertainment, 73^ miles distant ; from Keene Val- 
ley by way of John's Brook (12 miles) or the Au 
Sable Lakes, or from the " Ruined Village " at the 
Adirondack Iron Works. The last two rotates unite 
near Lake Tear-of-the-Clouds. It will not be advis- 
able to make the ascent from any direction without a 
guide, although it is possible for those accustomed to 
mountain climbing and mountain trails to do so. 
Those who know all about it will need no advice ; 
those who do not, will need a guide as no amount of 
written directions ^^^ll suffice. Another bit of advice ! 
Take two days for the trip, and plenty of provisions 
and blankets, and camp out somewhere on the way — 
your guide will know where. 

Tlie Summit of Marcy is of the oldest known 
reckon the earth. Its head was lifted above the water 
in the early morn of creation and stood for ages bat- 
tling with the elements while yet the mighty mountains 
of the Eastern Hemisphere were buried beneath the 
ocean. 



CHAPTER VI. 

Keeseville, The Ar Sable River and 

Salmon River Valley. 

GATEWAY 2 leads from Port Kent past Au Sable 
Chasm (see page 40) and up the Au Sable River. 
Keeseville, on the An Sable River, five miles from 
Port Kent, and nearly two above Au Sable Chasm is 

thrifty and 
enterprising. 
It has a num- 
ber of fine 
private resi- 
dences and 
public e d i - 
fices, built of 
the beautiful 
creamy sand- 
stone which 
underliesthis 
section of the 
country. The 
water- power 
is utilized in 
the twine, 
wire, and iron 
manufactor- 
ies, and by 
the Au Sable Horse-Nail Company, here, and at the 
Nail-Rod Works, on the road to Au Sable Chasm. It 
has numerous churches, a graded school, and a wide- 
awake weekly — the Essex County Republican — which 
keeps the public in i- healthy state of agitation. 




132 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

Augrur Lake, a charming bit of water, is two and 
a half miles south of Keeseville. The Interlaken at 
this point is three stories high, with verandas, and, 
with inside and outside stairways for the upper floors. 
It has accommodations for about loo guests. C. B. 
White, manager. Beyond the lake rise the rocky 
walls of Poke o' Moonshine and Baldface mountains. 
At the south is Poke o' Moonshine Pass. 

Tlie Au Sable Valley Railroad has been sur- 
veyed from Keeseville to Lake Placid. The line fol- 
lows up the river to Au Sable Forks, thence along the 
East Branch past Upper, and Lower, Jay to Keene, 
thence up John's Brook Valley around Mount Porter 
and over toward the northwest through North Elba 
to connect with the new road from Saranac Lake at 
Lake Placid — and yet correctly speaking it may be 
termed an " Air line." 

Tlie Au Sable Valley above Keeseville is pictur- 
esque in a quiet pastoral way, growing wilder as the 
line enters the narrower glens of the East Branch. 
Rogers' Station is 14 miles from Port Kent and 20 
miles from Plattsburgh. It is the terminus of the Au 
Sable Branch road which extends from the last named 
place. A stage connects with morning trains for Au 
Sable Forks, Jay and Keene Valley. Jay is 7 miles 
from Rogers' Station ; stage fare 50 cents. Elm- 
wood Farm Cottage is the dining place for stage 
passengers to and from Lake Placid by this route. 
F. J. Baldwin, proprietor. Upper Jay, 4 miles 
further south, is a charmingly quiet and pictur- 
esque hamlet, shut in by the close pressing hills. 
Wholesome fare and cheerful service may be found at 
the little inn kept here by C. H. Coppins. Six miles 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 1 33 

further south is Keene, beyond which is noted Keene 
Valley, for which see Chapter VII. 

Tlie West Brancli of the Au Sable River joins 
with the East Branch at Au Sable Forks coming down 
through Wilmin^on Notcll, which is one of the 
most picturesque passes in the wilderness, the road 
running along the east base of Whitef ace Mountain to 
Lake Placid. Lack of hotel accommodations and en- 
terprise, and the usual fearfully bad condition of the 
road has made the way one rather to be avoided than 
otherwise, in the past. 'Wilmin^on, 26 miles from 
Port Kent, is on the Au Sable where it flows along the 
east base of Whiteface Mountain. It gives marked 
evidence of former prosperity, and, at some past time, 
was a centre of considerable importance. Now it is a 
little hamlet, combining the old and the new pictur- 
esquely enough. Entertainment can be found here in 
two little hotels. A trail leads from this point 6 miles 
to the top of Whiteface Mountain. Peasleville is 
outside the great public thoroughfares where the 
pleasure-seeker goes up and down, and comparatively 
unknown to the summer tourist. It lies among the 
hills about 10 miles north of Au Sable Forks on the 
little stream that empties into Lake Champlain south 
of Bluff Point. It is reached best over the Au Sable 
Branch railroad from Plattsburgh to Peru, thence by 
carriage six miles west. It lies between two parallel 
mountain spurs that project eastward from the great 
Adirondack system, enclosing the Salmon River 
Valley. Accommodations can be found among the 
farm houses in the valley (or on the mountain sides, if 
one is inclined to seek the greater elevations) where 
wholesome country fare, with an abundance of fresh 
farm and dairy products can be had and willing and 
unstinted service. Address Arnold & Ricketson, 
Peasleville, Clinton Co. , for particulars of names and 
places. 



CHAPTER VII. 

Elizabethtown, Keene Valley and The 
Au Sable Lakes. 

WESTPORT (gateway No. 3) is the main entrance 
to the Mountain Region. An enjoyable stage 
ride of eight miles in a westerly course, leads through 
a notch where we can look down into a lovelv, moun- 
tain-guarded retreat 
known as Pleasant 
Valley. It is scarcely 
less beautiful than 
its twin sister, Keene 
Valley, over beyond 
the grand ridges to 
the west, save that 
the mountains do not 
crowd against it quite 
so closely, and like 
it, is a favorite resort 
for the artist and 
quiet lover of nature, 
and for ladies, whose 
protectors, made of 
sterner stuff, are ' ' roughing it " in the mountains and 
lakes farther west. 

Elizabetlito'Wii is the county seat of Essex Coun- 
ty. It contains a native population of about 1000 ; 
has five churches— Congregational, Methodist, Bap- 
tist, Episcopal and Roman Catholic, court-house and 
jail, offices of county officials, hotels, s,tores, etc. It is 
peculiarly an American town, ha/\^ing very^ little 
foreign population, ^^'ith no mills or forges to fill the 
streams with sawdust, your clothes with soot, or your 
eyes with cinders. 




THE ADIRONDACKS. I37 

Tliet Windsor is the great hotel of Pleasant Y al- 
ley, affording accommodations for 2 50 guests. Orlando 
Kellogg, owner and proprietor. This house ha^ 
worthily earned a reputation that Has placed it among 
the select hotels of the Adirondack Mountains. It is 
picturesque and unique, consisting of four buildings 
of uniform shape closely connected by covered prom- 
enades and wide piazzas extending along the first and 
second stories. Each building is three stories high, 
and on each is a glass enclosed observatory which 
may be used for observation purpose or utilized on 
occasion, for dormitories. The convenient office is a 
general assembly room for lady and gentlemen guests 
alike, and contains, besides the usual fittings of the 
hotel office a telegraph office and news and notion 
stand. Adjoining, are the gentlemen's lounging 
room, etc., on one hand, and on the other a music 
room \\nth elevated stage and necessary appliances 
for amateur dramatic and musical performances, 
while the ground floors of other buildings contain re- 
ception room and parlors. Sleeping rooms, commo- 
dious and well furnished, and a superior table, meet 
the requirements of the traveling public. There are 
bowling alleys and billiards indoor, tennis courts and 
croquet grounds outside. A well appointed stable 
affords facilities for the enjoyment of the interesting 
drives that abound in this section. Guides, with all 
the necessary- equipment for sport, can be arranged 
for at the office, while the Windsor Trout Pond, 
owned by the proprietor of the house, is held for the 
special use of guests. In short, what energy can pro- 
vide to make the Windsor a desirable resort gives it a 
variety of interests approached by few places in the 
Adirondacks. For particulars address the proprietor 
at Elizabethtown. See appendix for rates for board. 

Stages connect with all trains at Wesport. Fare 
$1.00. The four and six-horse "tally-ho" coaches 



^v 







I 






<5 H 




■^'l' 



<t:--%4% 







"t^ ^ 



^*^ 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



39 



running here tend to popularize this route among 
lovers of coaching. The run is over an excellent road, 
through a picturesque section, and is not so long as to 
become wearisome. Stage for Keene Valley leaves 

morning and afternoon. 
Fare $1.50. The Man- 
sion House stands 
near the Windsor and 
is the large building 
seen prominently as the 
stage dips over into the 
valley in approaching 
from the east. This 
house is also owned by 
j\lr. Kellogg and run in 
connection with the 
Windsor during the 
summer. Charles A. 
Ferris, for some time as- 
sistant manager at the 
ORLANDO KELLOGG. Wiudsor, is manager. 

Maplewood Inn (formerly the Valley House) is 
in the lower town with quiet village surroundings. 
Rates and particulars will be given on application to 
the proprietor, G. W. Jenkins. 

Hurricane Mountain, a sharp cone, on which 
the sun seems to hang as it bids the valley good-night, 
is the highest peak near by. A wagon road leads to 
its base, five miles distant, from which, by a sharp 
climb of two miles, the summit is reached. It gives 
one of the finest high views to be obtained in the Adi- 
rondacks — second, perhaps, only to that from the top 
of Whiteface. Cobble Hill rises at the southwest 
edge of the plain like a huge, rough pyramid. Beyond 
this, toward the south, the mountains approach each 
other, growing rough and precipitous as the level 




I40 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

intervale narrows to a mere notch. Split Rock is 

at the head of the valley, 8 miles south. These falls 
are exceedingly picturesque, and the flume wild and 
broken. A trail has been cut along the course, the 
w^ay made safe by a rustic baluster where necessar^^ 
Modest refreshments may be had of the care-taker. 
A rustic pavilion among the trees is a local attraction 
and dancing not impossible under the inspiration of 
music furnished by the proprietor. Euba Dam is, or 
rather was, the name of a little place two miles farther 
south, but as its use had a tendency to familiarize the 
youth of the land with incipient profanity, it was 
changed to Euba Mills. Here a roa-d turns west lead- 
ing through Chapel Pond Gorge to St. Hubert's Inn, 
at the head of Keene Valley. South of Euba Mills is 
Deadwater, i6 milea from Elizabethtown ; Roots, 23 
miles; and Scroon Lake, 32 miles. Nortll of 
Eliza.betlitO'^^^ the road runs close under the 
frowning ledge of Poke-o' Moonshine, past Augur 
Lake to Keeseville, 22 miles distant. "West, it 
winds up over the mountain pass, to Keen, 12 miles, 
Cascade Lakes, 18 miles, and out across the plain of 
North Elba to Lake Placid, 27 miles. 

Tlie Willey House is on East Hill, which is the 
west side of Hurricane Mountain, 12 miles from Eliza- 
bethtown and 2}^ east of Keene Centre. Capacity 
about 70. Harvey Willey, proprietor. P. O. Keene. 
The view westerly is magnificent. A 4-mile trail 
leads tothe top of Hurricane. Forrates see appendix. 

Keene Valley shows the loveliest com.bination of 
quiet valley, and wild mountain scenery, of any sec- 
tion of the Adirondacks, if not indeed of our continent. 
Through it, from the south, come the sparkling waters 
of the Au Sable, flowing quietly along beneath over- 
hanging maples and gracefully swaying elms, rippling 
over glistening white sand, or dashing down rocky 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



141 



raceways to where, among the spray and foam of Tne 
cataract, it thunders and rumbles and roars as if 
angry with its prison Avails ; then out between the 
dark ledges through the northern portals and away to 
Ausable Forks where it joins its sister from the great 




KEENE VALLEY, SOUTH FROM BROOK KNOLL LODGE. 

Indian Pass above. About six miles from the head 
(south end) of the valley the road from Elizabethtown 
comes in on the east. South of this road we follow 
up the stream that winds quietly back and forth 
through the valley, noting as we go, some of the 
beauties that have lent such a charm to this locality — 
sweet, restful, shady groves of water-maples, great 
massy drooping elms, clumps of alders fringing the 
river brink and great canopies of native grape-vines 
clasping the huge rocks in loving embrace or fes- 
tooned on the sturdy trees through which open up 
long vistas of meadow-land with a background of 
mountain-green, and above all, the summits of naked 
rock. On every side the mountains shut us in, rising 
abruptly up out of the valley's floor instead of with 
the usual gradual curve of mountains from a plain, 
showing unmistakable evidence that the lowlands 
are but the bottom of some ancient lake whose outlet 
may be looked for either on right or left of the castel- 
lated bluff that centrally fills the valley just north of 
where the Elizabethtown road comes in. Picturesque 



142 



TllK ADIRONDACKS. 



"bits" are found everywhere. The vraterfails are 
varied as the shifting forms of the kaleidoscope, many 
deserving particular attention. They are too numer- 
ous to mention, too wild and varied to be described. 
They mu.st be seen to be appreciated. If a guide be 
wanted for these short excursions, none more com- 
petent or entertaining can be found than the veteran 
explorer, "Old mounnain Phelps" who knows 
wilderness ways by instinct, and talks with the ele- 
ments as with familiar friends, but whose ripening 
years have caused him, regretfully, 
to ^neld to 3'ounger heads and limbs 
the long tramps through valley and 
over mountain heights in which he 
once delighted. See him at any rate, 
for a cordial welcome and pleasant 
hour is certain to be the result. He 
was born in Vermont, in 1S16, from 
which he came to the Adirondacks 
when 14 years of age. He had a great 
love for the woods and took to them 
' ' when deer and speckled trout were 
as plenty as mosquitoes in a damp 
day in July." In 1849 he made his 
first trip to the top of Marcy, passing 
out over Haystack around the head of Panthea- Gorge 
and to the summit, descending near where the main 
trail now runs, being the first man to get to the top 
from the east. He has made a valuable map of the 
wild country around, a section of which is given here- 
with, is a prized and regular contributor to a local 
paper, and has written a voluminous treatise on the 
Adirondack lakes and mountains, trees, birds, beasts, 
etc. . which shows the close observer and enthusiastic 
student of nature. The most perfect "picture" 
of the valley is that seen from Split Rock or from 
Prospect Hill, the latter being near the home of " Old 




OLD MOUNTAIN PHELPS. 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



Mountain Phelps" and easily accessible. The most 
comprehensive view, is probably one from Monroe 

12 3 4 5 6 7 8 




*;.>f->. 



KEENE VALLEY FROM PROSPECT HILL. 

I Noon Mark: i Dix; 3 Dial; 4Nippletop; 5 Snow; 6 Wolfs Jaws; 
7 Rooster's Comb; 8 Marcy. 

Holt's outlook, on the west side near Brook Knoll. 
It shows almost the entire floor of the valle}^ and 
nearly all of its cottages and hotels. 

Tlie Estes House is on the east side of the river 
at the west foot of Prospect Hill. It will now accom- 
modate 50. J. H. Estes, proprietor. This is the only 
boarding house in Keene Valley from which ]\Iount 
Marcy is visible. See appendix for rates. 

Keene Valley (village) is one mile from Prospect 
Hill and about 3 miles from the head of the valley. 
The Post Office is here, church, public hall and several 
stores with the usual variety of pastoral supplies. 

Tile Adirondack House stands on rising ground 
at the west side of the village. Solomon Kelley, pro- 
prietor, ine original house, built m 1S82, has been 
enlarged until now it has capacity for 200 guests. It 
has bath-rooms, with hot and cold water on every 
floor, electric bells and open fireplaces in about 20 of 
the principal rooms. The house commands a com- 



THE ADIROXDACKS. I45 

prehensive view of the village and mountains and the 
valley extending north and south. Double piazzas 
and one glass-enclosed observatory form admirable 
vantage ground for observation. There is a telegraph 
office here, and mail deliver)^ twice daily during the 
season. A conduit from a mountain spring brings 
pure water, which is carried through pipes to every 
floor. The table is wholesome and makes a special 
feature of fresh cream and milk, eggs and butter and 
fresh vegetables from the hotel farm. The sanitary 
provisions are believed to be perfect. It may be of 
interest to some to note that there are no less than five 
city physicians owning and occupying cottages here 
at Keene Valley during the season. For tennis, 
croquet or the distinctively American game, ample 
grounds are provided. Those who go into camp can 
obtain camping necessaries here. Respectful atten- 
tion marks the service of this house from proprietor 
down, and a disposition to please and satisfy all 
reasonable desires in visitors, entitles it to public 
favor. Tlie Regular Stage delivers guests at the 
hotel, but those who can send notice in advance are 
advised by the proprietor to do so, and they will be 
met by the hotel carriage at train or boat at Westport, 
from which point they may be conveyed direct to the 
hotel, or take time for meals, or night, if desired, at 
Elizabethtown. Those who ride or drive — and by the 
way riding is a popular amusement along the level 
roads and sequestered ways of Keene Valley — will find 
good saddle horses and spring buckboards (the easiest 
riding mountain wagon in the world) at command. 
Stages for Au Sable Lake leave morning and after- 
noon. Fare for round trip, $1.25. 

Tlie New Tahawus House stands at the south 
end of the village. George W. Egglefield, proprietor. 
This is practically a new house, the old portion, which 
became so familiar tr visitors years ago, having been 



THE ADIRONDACKS. I47 

moved away and a more imposing structure reared in 
its place, with capacity for 150. A feature — always 
popular where young people gather — is the Tahawus 
House Theatre, with stage and all accessories for 
amateur theatricals. For price of board and addi- 
tional particulars see page 261. 

Flume Cottage stands at the entrance to Wash- 
bond's Flume, about a mile south of the village, com- 
manding an extended view of the valley north and 
east. Capacity 35. M. E. Luck, manager. Martin 
Bahler, A. M., a graduate of Rutgers College, and 
principal of a flourishing young ladies' seminary, at 
Summit, N. J., owns the property and usually spends 
his summer here. For rates, etc., see appendix. 
Maple Grove Monntain Honse is the title given 
originally to a picturesque farm-house on the road 
near Flume Cottage, and later transferred to a more 
commodious building erected on higher ground close 
by. Accommodations can here be found for 40 guests. 






#^- 







ST. HUBERT'S COTTAGE. 



St. Hubert's Cottage stands against the face ot 
the hill that looks north, centrally, from the head of 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



149 



Keene Valley 21^ miles from 
the same management as St. 




ORLANDO BEEDE. 

self in those early days 
become noted as hunter 
and guide. The small 
house occupied then be- 
came a noted resort, 
much too small for the 
accommodation of 
would-be guests, and in 
1877 a plain but roomy 
hotel was built on the 
plateau above. In the 
spring of 1886 it was 
enlarged to double its 
former capacity, to be 
totally destroyed by fire 
in March of 1S90. The 
pres ent handsome 
structure was planned, 
guests the beginning of 



the village. It is under 
Hubert's Inn. 

St. Hubert's Inn 

stands on Keene 
Heights a half a mile 
south of the cottage, 
Beede & Houghton, 
prop rietors. The 
growth of business 
here has been remark- 
able and seemingly 
without effort on the 
part of its founders. 
Visitors coming years 
ago found the old hun- 
ter, Smith Beede 
and his son Or- 
lando, who had him- 




P. D. HOUGHTON. 



built and opened for 
the same season. The 



THE ADIKOXDACKS. 15! 

hotel is ver}' complete in arrangements. The main 
building forms two faces of an octagon. A third 
face, which it is proposed in time to build, is enclosed 
as a tennis court. A continuation of the floor, gives 
entrance to a building containing a spacious assembly 
room where magazines aiil light literature will be 
found, with curios, photographs, and illustrated 
books of surrounding scenery. The Inn is three 
stories in height with pleasant, large-windowed rooms, 
many of them en suite, with ample piazzas and bal- 
conies at various points along the front reached 
through doors opening from the upper rooms. A 
spacious parlor and dining room, a large office, tele- 
graph office, post-office (Beede's), reception, reading 
and smoking rooms occupy the main floor. It has 
electric bells and steam heat, and is lighted 
with gas. There are open fire-places in the 
offices and main hall, parlor and dining-rooms, and 
in a number of the sleeping rooms. It is furnished 
in modern style, luxuriously and artistically. The 
decorations are simple, but in good taste. ' Heavy 
tapestry and hanging curtains in place of doors be- 
tween the public rooms, give an air of cozy comfort 
quite attractive. The purest mountain water is 
brought into the house, and the drainage believed to 
be as perfect as possible. For rates and additional 
particulars see appendix. The proprietors need no 
introduction. A generous liberality marked the man- 
agement of the Beedes from the beginning. The un- 
conventional character of the entertainment, with the 
general freedom of the guests to the best of every- 
thing that could be had, made the place very popular 
from tne nrsi, and the same general principles con- 
tributed to the success of the house when the sole 
management devolved on the present senior member 
of the firm. The junior membcjr, Mr. Houghton, 
who has a genius for making friends, has been identi- 



152 IHE ADIRC.NDACKS. 

fied in some capacity with the management of the 
Inn ever since the opening, comiing here with val- 
uable experience had in Boston and among White 
Mountain hotels. 

Stages to Westport, run morning and after- 
noon, to connect with trains and boats. Fare $2.50. 
To An Sable Lake, morning and afternoon. Fare 
50 cents; round trip 75 cents. Saddle horses (and 
Mr. Beede knows a good piece of horse-flesh when he 
sees it), carriages, and mountain wagons for extended 
excursions, can be had here on application. 

The "Inn" stands on land 277 feet higher than the 
yalley, — 1,240 feet above tide. The outlook is superb. 
On the East is Hopkins Peak and the Giant of the 
Valley; South — a little to the east — is "Noon Mark." 
Resagonia Mountain is in the southwest, its ser- 
rated outline suggesting its local name of "Saw-teeth." 
East of this is the round, knob-like crest, known as 
"Indian Head," which, sphinx-like, looks out over 
the waters of the Lower Au Sable Lake. Mount Col- 
vin rises beyond, sweeping back towards the south 
and east, to its sharp, clean-cut summit. 

"Windybrow, the high, round-topped hill at the 
north-east commands a wonderfully fine prospect of, 
not only this upper section but also of, the entire 
stretch of Keene Valley toward the north. It is the 
one view that must not be missed. Roaring 
Brook Falls are at the east, the head of the clifl: 
over which they break in sight on the side of the 
Giant, about a mile distant. The water here makes a 
descent of 300 feet in a succession of cascades, hardly 
touching at each step except to gather for the next 
succeeding plunge, then flashes swiftly down the 
almost perpendicular rock for the last fifty feet, 
through a trough worn out by its action, then out, in 
pretty littie falls and dashes, to join the Au Sable. 

Chapel Pond is about 2 miles distant in a deep 



THE ADIRONDACKS. I 53 

gorge, southwest of the Giant, with perpendicular 
walls on either side. It is a half-mile long, perhaps 
one-fourth that in width. The dark surroundings 
give an impressive air to this lonely sheet, and make 
it seem more fitting as a place for solemn meditation 
than for anglers sport. It is 1,602 feet above tide. 
Tlie Giant's Washbowl is on the side of the Giant, 
500 feet above. You can stand on The Washbowl's 
edge and toss a stone over into Chapel Pond. Cliapel 
Pond Road leads east along the side of the gorge, 
to Euba Mills, at the head of Pleasant Valley ; thence 
south through Schroon Valley. The road' is good, 
considering the country traversed, and between the 
two valleys is exceedingly wild and picturesque. A 
day can be profitably spent in making this excursion. 

If you would attend divine service of a Sunday, 
you will be made welcome at " Felsenheim," a little 
chapel just north of the Inn. 

The Adirondack Mountain Reserve is 
that tract of country lying south of St. Hubert's, in- 
cluding within its limits the Au Sable Lakes and the 
great mountains surrounding them and extending 
westerly to taue in a part of Mount Marcy. The- 
Association is incorporated under the laws of New 
York, with the following officers: Wm. G. Neilson, 
president; S. Sidnc}^ Smith, secretary; E. I. H. Howell, 
treasurer. The board of trustees are'RobertW. De For- 
est, S. Sidney Smith, C. C. Cuyler and Frederick J. 
Stimson, of New York, and \Vm. G. Neilson, Rich- 
ard C. Dale and Edward I. H. Howell, of Philadel- 
phia. W. S. Brown is the superintendent in charge. 

The declared objects of the association are, the 
preservation of the forests, lakes and streams in their 
natural beauty ; the restocking of the water with fish ; 
the protection of game and rendering more ac- 
cessible, by roads and trails, points of interest 
wthin its domains. Cutting green timber, peeling 



154 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



bark, or defacing the property of the company m any 
manner is forbidden. On Sundays, boats will not be 
rented at the Lakes, nor will goods be sold by the 
agents of the company. No malt or spirituous liquors 
will be sold on the company's reserve at any time. 
Hunting will not be permitted at present. Fishing is 
allowed only by special permit. Some of the rules es- 
tablished by the A. M. R. may seem over-rigid; but 
the fact that members themselves are bound as 
rigidly as the veriest stranger, is reply enough to 
those who would suggest anything but the best of 
motives, and the objects are to be commended by all 
right-minded persons who may not consider fishing 
and the taking of animal life as the ofily pleasurable 
sensations to be experienced here among nature's 
ennobling scenes. 

A number of picturesque cottages south St. Hubert's 
belong to the "A. M. R." and are occupied by mem- 
bers during the season. The Rus tic Ga te is the 

entrance 
to the re- 
serve. At 
the gate- 
house, 
photo- 
graphs 
and c u - 
rios are to 
be found, 
and a 
pamphlet 
giving 
over 50 
e X c u r - 

KESAGONIA. slOUS, lu- 




MT. COLVTN, 



INDIAN HEAD. 



eluding the principal mountain trails. Tlie Road 
to Au Sable Lake was constructed by the A. M. R. 



THE ADIRONDACKS I 55 

and is the best road in the Adirondacks, affording 
one of the most delightful drives. Toll is charged 
as follows: two-horse carriage, $i ; single rig, 50 cents; 
horse and rider, 25 cents. A pedestrian may go free. 
The receipts go for the maintainance of the road, for 
making trails ud the mountains and for other improve- 
ments. 

Lo'Wer Au Sable Lake is Swiss-like in its beauty. 
It is about one mile long, narrow like a river, and ex- 
tends north and south between Resagonia, or ' ' Saw- 
teeth," Mountain on the west, andMt. Colvin that rises 
steeply on the east to a sharp ridge, nearly 2000 feet 
above. There is no trail along its sides, which are 
almost impassable. Indian Face looks out over the 
water on the east, equaled in its imposing strength 

only by the 
great stone face 
of the White 
Mountains. The 
view from In- 
dian Head i s 
w o n d e r f u 1 1 y 
fine. Rainbow 
Falls, in the 
gorge over 
^'r/^-r^ across the outlet 
'^''''' and Ribbon 
Falls hanging 
down over the 
same cliff a 
little deeper in should be seen — the two, divided 
strands of the stream, which here come down off from 
the Gothics. Boats, camp supplies and camping 
privileges can be secured at the boat house here at the 
end of the road. In going through the lake ask your 
guide to point out the "Ice Cave" where ice is founa 
the year round. It may not be worth while to enter; 




SOUTH FROM INDIAN HEAD. 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 

through the -oods to ^e ^J-per L^ke. 
an^^a^'h^ru-^^ile^^.dt'' wfthouTbeik the wildest, it 




uppeTIu sable lake from the inlet. 
, Haystack; 2 Saddleback; 3 Gothic; 4 Resagonia. 

thicklYAVOoded slopes 01 ^^^^^ Mountain, a 

and scarred. C»n the easi ^^ the north 

long, heavi^ly wooded i;^|^'^^™J^^th about 10 miles, 
in Mount Co vm, ^nd extending so ^^^^ 

At the ^vest is Bartlett Mo^^tam a n g ^^^^ 
its south slope IS ^--^^.^^I^^^^^^^Hlarcv, the highest 
^^^ of all Toward the north are 
Basin, Saddleback, the Gothics 
and Resagonia— a grand circle 
of giants, whose sides are 
marked with the course /d^ 
mountain torrents and the 
white, glistening path of the 
avalanche. The shores of the 
lake are thickly wooded to the waters edge. 




THE ADIRONDACKS. 



157 



Throughout the warm weather this is favorite camp- 
ing-ground with those who come to enjoy beauty and 
an unfettered hfe of the woods. Tlie Camps are 
mostly open in front to face the campfire, and are 




,r«, eoo CAM PS 

IJPPfR [\\)^f\bll [aKE, 



built and owned by the authorized guides of Keene 
Valley by authority of the owners of the Reserve. 
No one will be allowed to occupy camps here unless ac- 
companied by an authorized guide. Twenty-five cents 
per night will be charged each visitor for the use of a 
camp. The Authorized Guides of Keene Valley 
are bound by rules of their own making, and 



158 



THE ADIROXDACKS. 



membership may be accepted by the public as a 
guarantee of capability. Members : Charles Beede. 
George F. Beede, Harry Beede, Oren E. Beede. Hor- 
ace E. Braman, John Brown, Melvin A. Hathaway, 
Le Grand Hale, Fred E. Lamb, C. Wesley LamD, 
James Owens, Edmund F. Phelps. Arthur C. Trum- 
bull, Charles E. Trumbull, Alelvill J. Trumbull. Ad- 
dress at Keene Valley 

Camp Supplies can be procured at the hotels. If 
your stay in camp is to be short it is best to ask your 
landlord to put up what may be necessary, which he 
will do, charging you ordinarily for the same at hotel 
rates. Your guide will cost $3 per day ; camp rent, 25 
cents. 

The ascent of Mount Marcy from Keene Valley is 
generally by way of the Au Sable Lakes, the way 




THE GREAT PEAKS FROM THE SOUTH. 

I Allen; 2 Skylight; 3 Marcy; 4 Panther Gorge; 5 Haystack; 
6 Basin; 7 Saddleback; 8 Gothic. 

leading up the Inlet by boat to Marcy Brook, thence 
along the west side of Bartlett Mountain through 
Panther Gorge, or along the south side of the mountain 

o Lake Tear-of-the-Clouds, for which see page 129. 

outll of Au Sable Lake a trail leads out (6 miles) to 

Elk Lake, thence 5 miles to the road running west to 

Tahawus(see gateway No. 7), and Root's (5 miles east). 

Tlie Great Peaks are grandest from near where 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



159 




the Boreas River, one of the main tributaries of the 
Hudson River, is crossed by this east and west road. 
A long line of giants, they stand across the northern 
sky, grim and rugged, presenting in reverse, though 
wilder form, almost the same outline as when seen 
from Lake Placid. 
Gateway No. 4 (Port Henry). Stage leaves 

Port Henry at 
7:30 A. M. daily 
(Sunday except- 
ed), passing Mo- 
ri a h Centre, 
Pine Ridge Cot- 
tage and North 
Hudson, arrives at Schroon River at 11 130. Return- 
ing leaves Schroon River at 3, arrives at Port Henry 
at 6:30 P.M. Fare$i.25. Gateway No. 5. Crown 

Point. Trains on the C. P. I. R. discontinued. 
******* 

Gateway No. 6 (Fort Ticonderoga) leads to Ticon- 
deroga (village) and to Baldwin at the north end of 
Lake George (5 miles), where steamers are taken for 
Caldwell. Ticonderoga is about midway between 
the two lakes. (Hotel Burleigh is the leading house). 
Stages (S. C. Bailey line) run daily, leaving Ticon- 
deroga at 1:30 p. M., via Trinity Lakes (Paragon, 
Pyramid and Paradox), arriving at Schroon Lake at 
6:30. Returning leave Schroon Lake at 6:30 a. m. 
reach Ticonderoga at 11:30. Fare $2. 50 either way. 
Paragon Lake is 7 miles west of Ticonderoga in a 
narrow defile of the mountains on the divide between 
Champlain waters and the waters of the Hudson. 
The lake is about 3 miles long, narrow and closely 
pressed by its precipitous shores. Paragon Lake 
House is near the east end of Paragon Lake. Geo. A. 
Houghtalin, proprietor. Capacity, 30. Rates $2 per 
day ; $10 per week. For Pyramid Lake see pagei 73-B. 




/ 






^^%-^^j^^^^ 







fr^ 






CHAPTER VIII. 

Luzerne, Schroon Lake, North Creek and 
THE "Ruined Village." 

SARATOGA is Gateway No. 7. From this point 
the Adirondack Railroad runs north until 
it strikes the 
Hudson River 
at Corinth, 
thence up 
along its west 
bank to North 
Creek 57 miles 
distant. 

Luzerne is 
situated at the 
junction of the 
Hudson and 
Sacan daga 

rivers, twenty-two miles north of 
Saratoga. It is inclosed b}^ rounded 
hills, heavily wooded to their sum- 
mits, save here and there a break 
where some ledge looks out on 
the valley below. On the west are 
the Kayaderosseras mountains ; 
on the east, the Luzerne range, 
that has its rise at Lake George, 
and ends where the Hudson, turn- 
ing east, breaks through between 
it and Mount jSIcGregor on the south, where Grant, 
the soldier, came to die. Toward the north the moun- 
tains are broken, rocky and picturesque. These are 




l62 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

the outreaching spurs of the Adirondacks, from which 
the Hudson comes flowing quietly along to its union 
with the Sacandaga at Ti-st-ran-do, "the meeting of 
the waters." From this point down the river to 
Jessup's Landing, are six miles of still running water, 
then the river sweeps around almost north again and 
makes a plunge of 60 feet over Palmer's Falls. Lu- 
zerne is on the old Indian trail from the great villages 
of the Mohawks to the head of Lake George. Here 
King Hendrick and his braves encamped when on 
their way to join Johnson at Lake George in 1755. 
Luzerne Lake is a pearl set in emerald, lying at 
quite an elevation above the village, a crystal drop on 
the hillside, held there by a narrow embankment 
through which the outlet finds its way, and after 
amusing itself among sets of water-wheels passes 
out into the Hudson and to the sea. 

Tlie Wayside Inn is just north of the village, 
facing the lake. Capacity 200. E. C. King, manager. 
The Wayside is an imposing structure with numer- 
ous gables, porches, piazzas and balconies. The in- 
terior is in keeping with the exterior — roomy, ram- 
bling, airy; with pleasant office, dining-room and par- 
lor, and with a charming outlook over the lake and 
forest, and the rolling meadow-land around. It has, con- 
nected with it a number of cottages which can be rented 
for the season, affording desirable accommodations 
separate from the more public quarters of the Inn. 
There is a telegraph office here and an excellent livery 
within call. Guests are transferred to and from all 
trains free. Mr. King, the manager, is energetic, and 
that he is efficient is proven by the popularity of the 
house which finds difficulty in providing accommoda- 
tions sufficient for its would-be guests. Those de- 
siring rooms during July or August \\\\\ do well to 
make application in advance, as the Wavside is the 
only hotel of interest left to the summer visitor in this 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



163 



section. For rates and additional particularr. see ap- 
pendix. 

Nortli of Luzerne the road runs along the river, 
at times crowded close 
against its brink as the 
valley narrows down 
and the mountains grow 
more abrupt and pre- 
cipitous. Riverside 
is 50 miles from Sara- 
toga. There is little to 
interest here, save the 
graceful suspension 
bridge thrown across 
from shore to shore over 
which the tourist goes 
in one of Eugene Leav- 
itt's old fashioned stage 
coaches to Schroon Lake 
seven miles away at the 
northeast. 

CliestertO"wn, a thriving little village, is six miles 
east of Riverside. Its environment is picturesque, 
with lakes and valleys and rolling hills that rise in 
places into considerable mountains. The roads about 
are specially picturesque and varied and the popular 
amusements are riding and driving. The lakes and 
small ponds near by afford good bass fishing, while 
partridges and the smaller game are found in their 
season in the adjacent woods. Tlie Ctiester 
House is on high ground in the village. It is three 
stories high, with pleasant piazzas, fronted by a nice 
grove of maples. It is under the management of 
Harry S. Downs, who, with considerable experience 
in the business, adds a pleasant presence, an obliging 
disposition, and youthful zeal and enterprise. This 




EUGENE LEAVITT. 



1 64 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

house will care for about 1 50 guests. For rates see 
appendix. 

Pottersville, a village of a single street, is six miles 
northeast of Riverside, near the foot of Schroon Lake. 
Its surroundings back from the narrow valley are ex- 
ceedingly wild, rugged and picturesque. Potters- 
ville Hotel is here by the side of Trout Brook. John 
B. Wells, proprietor. This is the regular dining place for 

passengers going or 
^^j^__^^g,„^ coming, and furnishes 
c::ja^=s*^ \ a wholesome and most 




substantial meal. The 
house is comfortably 
furnished, and affords 
pleasant accommodations to those who may prefer 
this to the northern extremity of the lake. Trout 
Brook, aifords very good sport, while fishing grounds 
on river and lake are easily reached. Mr. Wells is a 
young man, full of energy, and brings to the busi- 
ness experience of value from the old Wells House on 
vSchroon Lake. For rates and particulars see ap- 
pendix. 

Tlie Leavitt Stage Line, running between River- 
side and Schroon Lake, is not unworthy of special 
notice. The ride affords a pleasant change from the 
cars, giving variety, without continuing long enough 
to become wearisome, followed by the halt for dinner 
and the race to the steamboat in the open wagons. 
The coaches used here are of the well-known Concord 
build. The stock is first-class, and the drivers are of 
the most reliable, Eugene Leavitt, proprietor of the 
line, is considered one of the best whips in the 
country. Six-horse, tally-ho stages run to the main 
trains, and lighter wagons connect morning and 
evening, with the "sleeper" at Riverside. Specials 
may be secured for any service required by arrange- 
:"ent with the manager. 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 1 65 

Schroon Lake is one of the most popular semi- 
wildemess resorts in the countrA'. It is surrounded 
on all sides by mountains, not high but wild and 
rugged, and broken into curious fragmentary masses 
around its south end, growing smoother as you go 
north. It is nearly ten miles in length, about two 
wnde, and divided in two nearly equal portions by ap- 
proaching points at the narrows. It receives the wa- 
ters of Paradox and other lakes and streams on the 
north, and empties through Schroon River into the 
Hudson River at Thurman. The shores are low, re- 
ceding in gentle slopes for a distance, then rise up 
into the mountains surrounding it. It is reached 
usually by the Adirondack Railroad, from Saratoga 
to Riverside, theiice by stage to the outlet. The Steam- 
boat Landing at the outlet is something less than a 
mile from Pottersville. Here the Steamer " Ef- 
fing'Iiain,'* Captain Sam Russell, waits the coming 
stage. As the little steamer swings slowly around 
and starts away on her nine mile trip through the 
Lake we see that the mountains are all around, and, 
although other lake gems may have a grander setting, 
there are few with greater variety and none with 
lovelier shores. On the southwest are the great rough 
mountain ribs and knobs that gather around Potters- 
ville ; toward the north they soften down for some 
distance ; then beyond we see the sharp outlines of 
the Blue Ridge, and catch glimpses of Mount Dix, the 
Dial and the numberless, nameless peaks that cluster 
around Tahawus — the cloud splitter — seen at one 
point, faint and blue with distance. 

Watcli Rock Hotel is on the east side of the 
Lake 4 miles from the outlet. Capacity 125. George 
Cecil, proprietor. P. O. Adirondack. The house 
stands in a luxuriant grove of mixed forest trees that 
extends towards the north along the lake and back- 
ward to the mountains. Its environment bespeak 
thrift and enterprise. It has connected with it several 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 1 67 

cottages, some of them occupied by their owmers, 
while others form a part— and a very deUghtful part— of 
the hotel accommodations. It is richly furnished with 
a general fullness and completeness suggestive of sub- 
stantial, lasting qualities, rather th^n of temporary 
occupancy. There are summer-houses among the 
trees and secluded walks through the woods. There 
are croquette grounds and a tennis court. There are 
saddle horses and horses with dainty or substantial 
carriages as the visitor wills. There are pleasure 
boats, fishing boats and a steamboat here, any or all 
at the service of those desiring them. The table is 
excellent — in short the general character of the house 
is nice and wholesome with a suggestion of solid ex- 
clusiveness that is rather attractive than otherwise. 
Mr. Cecil has traveled extensively, and, appreciating 
the requirements of the many-sided public, has ap- 
plied his knowledge to the business with credit to the 
house and advantage to guests. Steamer con- 
nects with sfage for railroad, at foot of the lake. Fare 
50 cents. For rates of board, etc. , see appendix. 

Adirondack the little hamlet south of Watch 
Rock, is picturesque, and fragrant with the odorous 
smell of tanbark which reveals its principal busi- 
ness. It is spoken of generally as Mill Brook, al- 
though known in the postal department by its name 
of "Adirondack." 




<i u 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



169 





Taylor House and cottages are at Lake View 
Point, on the west shore of the Lake opposite Watch 
Rock. Capacity about 175. C. F. Taylor & Son, pro- 
prietors. P. O., Taylors- 
on-Schroon. The accom- 
modations are in the cen- 
tral buildmg which con- 
tains office, reception 
rooms, dining room, etc., 
and in a little village of 
fifteen or more cottages 
of various designs and 
sizes grouped among the 
trees, presenting alto- 
gether a very pretty pic- 
ture. The cottages are 
in part owned by regular 



C. F. TAYLOR. 

guests of the Taylor 
House, others on occa- 
sion assigned to transient 
visitors. The post-office 
is here in one of the cot- 
tages and with it ''no- 
tions" of both masculine 
and feminine nature, lite- 
rary, photographic and 
saccharine. The house 
and grounds are lighted 
by electricity. The steam- 
boat lands on. all regular 
c. F. TAYLOR, JR. trips to aud from the out- 

let. Fare 50 cents. The accommodations and fare 
are excellent. For rates see page 264. Ripe ex- 
penience and youthful energy are united in the 



THE ADIRUNDACKS. I7I 

management here. To the untiring devotion of C. F. 
Tay or, the senior memiierof the firm in earlier days, 
is due perhaps more than to any other man living, 
the impetus that set Schroon Lake on its high road to 
popularity as a summer resort, and no one envies him 
the success that has crowned his ventures. The 
junior member has made the art of entertaining a 
study and knows it in its minutest details. On the 
north side of Lake View Point Ed. Harrigan exem- 
plifies " Squatter Sovereignty " in a style that his ad- 
mirers would not recognize as of the New York kind. 
At the narrows farther north is " Lotus Cottage," the 
summer place of W. H. Granbery, banker, of New 
York. 

Tlie Grove Point House stands on an elevated 
point extending from the west shore near the north 
end of the lake . a half mile from the village of Schroon 
Lake. Capacity loo. Capt. W. A. Mackenzie, pro- 
prietor. The house is well furnished, clean and at 
tractive of itself and picturesque in its surroundings 
and outlook. It is prosperous because its proprietor 
is energetic and withal, obliging. During the winter 
he is in the management of " St. Helena-by-the-Sea" 
and after October ist must be addressed at Frogmore 
P. O., Beaufort Co., South Carolina. The steamer 
lands six times daily during the season and guests 
have the privilege of riding to and from the village, 
free. There is a good sand beach here with bath 
houses, tennis court, croquet ground, etc., and boats 
of different kinds to be hired by the hour, day, week 
or season. For price of board, etc., see page 263. 

Scbroon Lake I have spoken of in generaL 
Schroon Lake in particular means the village at its 
head, which is worthy of the best name on record, if 
beauty of location and general appearance entitles one 
to such. The main street through which the road 
runs to the north is a fine shaded avenue, the land 



172 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

sloping down to the edge of the lake, displaying the 
whole in a very pretty manner. It is a thoroughly 
wide-awake town, showing a degree of enterprise that 
many larger places might well be proud of. Ap- 
proached from the south the most prominent objects 




are the hotels — the Leland House, on tne high ground 
at the right; Adirondack Inn, near the water's edge; 
over this, the Windsor House, and the Ondawa, 
among the trees at the left of the Lake House. 

Tlie Leland House is in the lead. Capacity 
about 300, C. T. Leland, manager. Two large cot- 
tages, connected with the mam building by an ex- 
tension of the double piazzas at either end, afford re- 
tired quarters for those who may prefer such to the 
more public rooms in the larger building. It was 
built in 1872 and at once became popular. It was en- 
larged in 1S75 and again in iS8r, and still again in 
1888. The grounds are about five acres in extent — 
a grassy lawn, shaded by young trees and provided 
with modest little summer houses vine-draped and 
inviting. From its commanding position it overlooks 
the lake in three directions — south, east and north. On 
its south front is a broad, high piazza, double at the 
ends ; and, in front of this, a grand port-coachare — a 
pleasant and duly appreciated feature of a sunnj' 
day. The manager has been identified with the 
house for a number of years. Much is expected 



THE ADIRONDACKS. I73-A 

of the name, but there is little doubt but that 
the Leland House will remain where it has stood so 
long — easily in the lead. 

Tlie Ondawa is seen on the left of the dock as we 
approach, among the trees that nearly hide it from 
sight when viewed from the lake. It has capacity for 
about loo guests and is open the ^'■ear round. For 
rates, etc., see appendix. O'Connor Brothers, pro- 
prietors. On the south side facing the lake are com- 
fortable piazzas looking out on a small park belonging 
to the house, densely shaded with maples and elms 
and shut out from the street by a thick hedge. This 
is one of the oldest houses of the section. It is noted 
for w^holesome fare and has been for years a noted 
resort, summer and winter, for Schroon valley sports- 
men. The proprietors are obliging and disposed to 
do everything possible to maintain the good standing 
of the house. 

Dry goods, fancy goods, ladies' furnishing goods, 
jewelry and notions are displayed at the store of 
Peyser & Brother, adjoining the Ondawa on the north. 

Maps, books, photographs of Schroon Lake scenery, 
daily papers, drugs, etc., can be procured at Wm. A. 
Hall & Co 's directly opposite the Ondawa. 

Adirondack Inn (formerly Lake House), stands 
near the dock on the way leading to the Leland House. 
Capacity about too. Train & O'Connor, proprietors. 
Tlie Windsor Hotel, west of the Leland House, 
has capacity for about 60 guests. O. Allard, pro'orie- 
tor. The Leland Cottage, on Main street, has ac- 
commodations for about 25. J. M. Leland, proprie- 
tor. The Prospect House, also on the main street 
of the village, will provide for 30 guests. J. A. Pitkin 
& Brother, proprietors. The Arlin^on Cottage, 
just north of the village, is a pleasant boarding house, 
nicely kept, providing for 30 guests. C. C. Whitney, 
proprietor. For Rates and other particulars relat- 
ing to the smaller houses see appendix. 



173-B 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



Stage leaves daily (Sundays excepted) at 6: 30 a.m., 
passing Trinity Lakes (Paradox, Pyramid and Para- 
gon), arriving at Ticonderoga at 11:30, connecting 
with trains on the D. Sc H. R. R., and with boat north 
on Lake Champlain and south on Lake George. Re- 
turning leave Ticonderoga at 1:30 p. m., arriving at 
Schroon Lake at 6:30. Fare to Pyramid or Paragon 

Lakes $1.50; to Ticon- 
deroga $2.50. 

Paradox Lake is 
miles north of Schroon 
Lake. It is about 4 
miles in length, extend- 
ing eastward from the 
Schroon Valley. At the 
west its shores are 
smoothly rounded, on 
the east arbupt and rug- 
ged. Paradox P. O. 
is at the east end of the 
lake. Strangers will not 
be turned away hungry 
from the farm-house 
oRRiN HARRIS. hcrc, belougiug to Orrin 

Harris, if they apply for food in the right spirit. 

Pyramid Lake House is 10 j^ miles from Schroon 
Lake and about the same from Ticonderoga. Orrin 
Harris, proprietor. P. O., Paradox, N. Y. The 
house will provide for 100 guests. For rates see 
page 263-c. Stage daily (Sundays excepted) to 
Schroon Lake and Ticonderoga. Fare to either 
place $1.50. Telephone in the house. The hotel 
stands on the shore of Pyramid Lake which 
is exceedingly wild wnth rugged sides and deep 
waters, quite noted for trout and black bass, which 
have been systematically propagated and held 




THE ADIRONDACKS. I73-C 

for the use of guests of the hotel. In the lake is a 
high rounded island which suggested the name of 
pyramid. Pliaraoli Lake, noted for its big trout, 
lies 4^2' miles through the wilderness south. Those 
who m"ay wish to break the stage ride between Ticon- 
deroga and Schroon Lake are advised to address S. 
C. Bailey, Ticonderoga ( who will furnish light rigs to 
parties of three or more at but little more than stage 
fare), and dine at Pyramid Lake House. 

******* 

Scliroon Valley north of Schroon Lake, with the 
various roads leading towards the east and around 
Paradox Lake, afford delightfully interesting drives. 
Root's Hotel is 9 miles north of Schroon Lake. 
It had an excellent reputation once, but at present 
the accommodations and fare are not such as to at- 
tract the average summer visitor. 

North from Root's for 10 miles stretches the beau- 
tiful Schroon Valley until the gradually approaching 
mountains come together at Deadwater, where 
the waters of Schroon River, now but a mere brook 
gathered from ponds in the notches of the mountains, 
start on their winding way southward. At Euba 
Mills, 3 milesfurthernorth, roads diverge— one bear- 
ing toward the right leading down through Pleasant 
Valley, to Elizabethtown, 10 miles (page 135) ; the 
other toward the left, upward through Chapel Pond 
Gorge to Keene Valley, about six miles distant, (page 
140). Westward from' Root's between the mountains 
whose jagged sides come down abruptly to the edges 
of the Valley, runs the road to the Boreas region, 
Tahawus, Newcomb and Long Lakes. By leaving 
this road five miles west of Root's and going north- 
\vard over a fairly good road, Elk Lake is reached. 
Northwest from Elk Lake a six-mile trail leads up 
over the Boreas range to Upper Au Sable Lake, for 
which see page 156. 



174 IHE ADIRONDACKS. 

The Boreas River is 13 miles west of Root's, 
wiiii huntsman's accommodations in the little house 
found there. A rough road leads north, six miles, to 
Boreas Pond, lying in wild hunting territory. Six 
miles west of the Boreas is Tahawus, from which 
point a road leads north to " Tlie Ruined Vil- 
lage." 

******* 

Returning to Riverside we go up the west 
bank of the river 7 miles to the terminus of the rail- 
road at North Creek, 57 miles from Saratoga. Stages 
(or buckboards, the easiest riding carriage in the 
mountains) are taken here for Blue Mountain Lake 
(see page 187). Parties for Aiden Lajr, Newcomb 
Lakes, or the section around the Adirondack Iron 
Works, not reached by daily stage, will find it ard- 
visable to make arrangements for conveyances at this 
point, or by telegraph in advance, to Fred J. Dunn, 
Supt. , North Creek. Stage Fares from North Creek 
to North River, 50 cents ; to Indian Lake Village, 
$1.80; to Cedar River, $2.00; to Blue Mountain Lake, 
$3.00. The price for a buckboard carrying one 
person, North Creek to Blue Mountain Lake, $10; two 
persons, $11; three or more persons, $4 each; two 
children under 12 occupying one seat same as one 
adult. 

By leaving in the morning by special conveyance 
passengers can also connect at Blue Mountain Lake 
with afternoon steamier for Raquette Lake — all land- 
ings — and with stage for Long Lake. 

Aiden Liair is about 17 miles north of North 
Creek. It is quite noted as a hunting and fishing 
region. Aiden Lair Lodge offers accommodations to 
hunter and fisherman. ]M. F. Cronin, proprietor. 

Tabawus is 12 miles in a northerlv direction. 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 1 75 

Taha^Yus is also at present centered in a single house 
— the Lower Club House belonging to the Adirondack 
Club, whose headquarters are at theUpper Adirondack 
Works. Once there were extensive buildings at this 
place. A long dam across the Hudson flooded the 
valley back to the outlet of Lake Sanford, and barges 
floated between the two villages carr3nng supplies up 
and bringing the ore down to be carted eastward to 
Lake Champlain over a road built especially for this 
purpose. Meals can be had here or entertainment for 
a night, if the traveller wishes, under the rules of the 
Club, although uninvited visitors are not encouraged. 
A road leads up the west side of the Hudson — here 
called the North River. Five miles up the foot of 
Lake Sanford is reached. This lake is four miles 
long with low marshy shores, here and there punc- 
tuated by round hills and knobby points. Just above 
the head of Lake Sanford is the "New Forge." 
The building that inclosed the forge is gone now, 
but the stone furnace, forty feet square at its base, 
stands firm and solid as when made. The history 
of Adirondack is brief and sad. Messrs. Henderson, 
MciSIartin and Mclntrie, who, in 1S26 owned and 
operated iron-works at North Elba, were shown a 
piece of ore of remarkable purity by an Indian, which, 
he said, came from a place where "water run over 
dam, me find plenty all same." The services of the 
Indian were secured at once, at the rate of two shil- 
lings and what tobacco he could use per da}^ to con- 
duct them to the place spoken of, where they found, 
as he had said, where the water literally poured 
over an iron dam. A tract of land embracing the 
principal ore beds in that vicinity, was promptly 
secured, forges built, and the road cut from the lower 
works out to Lake Champlain. But the expense of 
transportation to market swallowed all the profits and 
the enterprise proved a financial failure. The work 



l-(i THE ADIRONDACKS. 

however was persevered in until the death of Mr. 
Henderson, who was killed in 1S45 by the accidental 
discharge of his pistol at a place now known as 
Calamity Pond. The bodyVas borne out on the 
shoulders of workmen, and 'afterwards a beautiful 
monument placed where he fell, bearing the inscrip- 
tion : "■ Erected by filial affection to the memory of 
our dear father, David Henderson, who accident- 
ally lost /lis life on this spot by the premature dis- 
charge of a pistol, jd Sept., 184s." In the death of 
]\Ir. Henderson the motive power was removed, and 
three years after his death the works were abandoned. 
There was something gruesome about the Ruined 




ADIRONDACK IN 1875. 

Village when we approached in our tramp of '73. A 
quarter of a century had passed since the hum of in- 
dustry sounded there. Where once sounded the crash 
of machinery and the shouts of children at plav, all 
was still save perhaps the shrill bark of the fox or the 
whir of the startled partridge. Instead of the music 
of voices all was silence, solemn and ghostly. Over 
the mountains and the middle ground hung a dark 
funereal pall of cloud, across which the setting sun 
cast bars of ashen light that fell on the nearer build- 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 177 

ings, bringing out their unseemly scars in ghastly re- 
lief, and lying in strips across the grass-grown street 
which led away into the shadow. On either side 
stood cottages, stained and blackened by time, \\'ith 
broken windows, doors unhinged, falling roofs and 
crumbling foundations. At the head of the street 
Avas the old furnace, one chimney still standing, one 
shattered by the thunderbolt in ruins at its feet. The 
water-wheel — emblem of departed power — lay mo- 
tionless, save as piece by piece it fell away. Huge 
blocks of iron, piles of rusty ore, coal bursting from 
the crumbling kilns, great shafts broken and bent, 
rotting timbers, stones and rubbish, lay in one com- 
mon grave, over which loving nature had thrown a 
shroud of creeping vines. Near the centre of the 
village was a large house that at one time accommo- 
dated a hundred boarders, now grim and silent. Near 
by at the left stood the pretty school house, the steps 
worn by many little feet, had rotted and fallen, the 
A\4ndows were almost paneless, the walls cracked and 
rent asunder where the foundation had dropped 
away, and the doors yawning wide, seemed to say not 
' ' welcome " but " go " — 

" O'er all there hung a shadow and a fear, 
A sense of mystery the spirit daunted 
And said as plain a's whisper in the ear, 
The place is haunted." 

To-day out little remains of the Ruined Village. All 
but two or three of the buildings that stood in 1873 
have been removed or destroyed. The ancient school- 
house does duty as a fish hatchery. The old kilns are 
overgrown with vines and shrubbery. The big old 
house, re-arranged and modernized, is a hotel under the 
management of Myron Buttles, Superintendent for 
the Adirondack Club, holders of the territory of the 
old Adirondack Iron Company as a game and fish pre- 
serve for the use of members and friends. The 



I7S THE ADIRONDACKS. 

rules of the clnb proclaim it a "close corporation," 
but no one understanding the circumstances can find 
reasonable objection as the stringent regulations 
adopted apply equally to all members, no one being 
permitted to hunt or fish outside the ' season as es- 
tablished by law, or to hunt at all except on regularly 
appointed occasions. The Club Houses at Tahawus 
and here, although primarily intended for the accom- 
modations of club members, will provide fare for the 
chance visitor. Price of accommodations is fixed at 
$3 per day for, all persons except guides and servants, 
and no person not a member of the club or their 
guests, will be entertained for more than a single 
night unless under pressing conditions. Myron But- 
tles, the manager, is a walking encyclopedia of fact 
and figures, tireless in the discharge of' his duty as 
manager and unremitting in his attention as host. 

From the Ruined Village to Calamity Pond is 5 
miles ; to Lake Golden 7 miles ; to top of Marcy 12 
miles. See pages 127-130. 

Lake Henderson is half a mile north of the 
Ruined Village. It is two miles long with its outlet 
near the center, on the east. From its head a trail 
leads to the Preston Ponds, the head of Cold River, 
M'hich fiOwo wet'"- mto Raquette River below Long 
Lake. Toward the north we look up a gradual slope 
through Indian Pass ; the dark green sides of ]\lcln- 
tire coming steeply down on the east side with the 
perpendicular cliffs of mighty Wallface on the west. 

Indian Pass is among the grandest features of 
the Adirondack Mountains. The distance through 
from the Ruined Village to Adirondack Lodge is 
about II miles. By boat through Lake Henderson 
reduces the walking distance about a mile. From the 
head of Lake Henderson, for three miles, the rise is 
gradual, then we begin to climb, crossing the rivulet 
back and forth as we go upward, making long de- 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 1 79 

tours to the right, at times, ascending the mountain 
some distance, and following a level stretch along its 
sides until the wildly dashing torrent is reached once 
,more ; then upward and onward, the path growing wild- 
er and more difficult as we proceed, the brooklet bound- 
ing from rock to rock, now lost in some dark cavern, 
now trickling down among the huge boulders or 
gurgling in muffled music beneath our feet, anon 
bursting out, to rest a 'moment in some mossy basin, 
pure crystal in an emerald setting, on which float 
fairy ships of leaves. \Ve get occasional glimpses 
through the trees of Great Wallface, appearing 
perhaps but a shade or two darker than the blue 
above until at last, through, an opening it comes 
out ; vast, grand, overwhelming immeasurable ! The 
eye sees it hanging in mid-air, a cloud, an outline, 
a color and bows beneath its awful weight. The 
giant pines that fringe its brow seem but bristling 
hair the great rifts that scar its sides, but a 
faint tracery of lines where cool gray shadows 
or 3^ellow sunlight, mayhap race swiftly across 
or lay in slant bars along its misty face. 
But the highest point is not reached yet; we are 
just entering at the lower gate, and for nearly a mile 
it is a continuous climb over great chaotic masses of 
jagged rocks thrown down by some convulsion of 
Nature, now on some huge fragment that seems ready 
to topple over into the gulf below, now where hang 
dripping mosses and sprawling roots — stooping, 
crawling, clinging to projecting limbs, climbing 
slippery ledges, upward all the time ! At last we 
stand on Lookout Point. Close by rises that grand 
wall a thousand feet. The bottom of the gorge is 
three hundred feet below. The cliff reaches out 
north and south, majestic, solemn and oppressive in 
its nearness. A long line of great fragments have 



THE ADIRONDAaoS. l8l 

fallen, year by year, and now lie at its foot. On every 
side huge caverns yawn and mighty rocks rear their 
heads where He who rules the earthquake cast them 
centuries ago. Along back, down the gorge we look, 
to where — five miles away and 1,300 feet below — is 
Lake Henderson, a shining drop in the bottom of the 
great emerald bowl. As we have risen, the sweet 
gurgling music of the infant Hudson has died away. 
Then, as we pass onward, comes the familiar sound 
once more — faintly at first, then more distinctly — the 
singing ">:; little waters ; first trickling over rocks, then 
dancing aownwaid, increased in volume by tributary 
streams from tli slopes of Mclntire — dancing away 
toward the n:;rth — ':he impetuous Au Sable, t^\'in 
brother af birth and rocked in the same moun- 
tain cradle wit. . the mighty Hudson that goes 
rolling southward to the sea. Does it pay to 
go through Indian Pass ? I answer a thousand 
times; 3-es. It co^ts a littlo exertion, but the ex- 
periences and emotions of tho day will come back in a 
flood of recollections that lift the soul a little higher 
and makes one bettor for a visit to that grand old 
mountain ruin. 

**^:- ****** 

Newcomb is 71^ miles west of Tahawus, 14 miles 
east of Long Lake and 29 from North Creek. It is 
one 01 the oldest settled sections in the A\dlderness ; is 
quiet and affords lare hunting and fishing. A water 
route, .eadinp- ''rom thij, point, through Rich and Cat- 
lin Lakes, to Long Lake, strikes the latter near its 
outlet. Accommodations may be found here at the 
Wayside Inn. P. Monahan, proprietor. Washington 
Chase is postmaster, job printer, and dealer in drugs 
and general merchandise, and one of the enterprising 
men of the town. 

********* 

Nortli Creek Stages run on arrival of noon 
train to Blue Mountain Lake in time for supper 



l82 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



Fare North Creek to Blue Mountain Lake, $3. Pat- 
ent canopy-top buckboards may be had by paying an 
additional sum, for which apply to the stage agent at 
either end of the route, personally or by mail or tele- 
graph, or at the hotels. 

The Nortli River Hotel is five miles from North 
Creek Capacity 40. Wakeley & Sullivan, proprie- 
tors. This is the regular dining' place (dinner 75 cents) 



^^\ff\tf%\tlwr f n 



3!6I3t-^^ 






4 



NORTH RIVER HOTEL. 



for passengers over this road in going in or coming 
out of the woods. This house has long been noted 
for wholesome fare, and the hunger satisfying nature 
of the dinners provided for its guests, and no doubt 
the new management will add to the excellent reputa- 
tion already established. Stages run as far as this 
point, on arrival of the evening train from the 
south, bringing such as may desire to remain over 
and be fortified with a night's rest for the longer 
ride of the morrow, and it is recommended that 
those not over robust arrange to break the jour- 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 183 

ney here, taking buckboards for the interior in the 
morning. A day or more can be spent here to advan- 
tage, either for rest or sport. The surrounding 
country affords excellent fishing and the smaller 
game, and is within easy walking distance of points 
where the larger kinds may be found. For rates see 
appendix. Connection with the Western Union Tele- 
graph is made at this point. TMrteentli Lake, 
four miles west, is reached over a very good road. 
The lake is about three miles in length by a half mile 
wide, i,Q52 feet above tide, and affords excellent fish- 
ing. The wild country around it is noted hunting 
ground. 

A short distance above North River we leave the 
river and climb up through a high notch at the west, 
rising a thousand feet in something less than four 
miles, then descending gradually, cross a stretch of 
burnt land to Indian River. ' The Indian River 
Hotel, with capacity for 40, is here at the crossing, 11 
miles from North River. It is frequented some by 
hunters but is not specially attractive or to be recom- 
mended. Tlie Seven Chain Lakes are north of 
Indian River about seven miles, reached over an in- 
different road. Cham Lake House, built in 1893, will 
provide for 25 guests. Alvin Hutchins, proprie- 
tor. Special conveyance from Indian Lake carrying 
I to 3 costs $6. Address at Indian Lake. From the 
Fifth Lake a trail-and-water route leads north to New- 
comb, something over ten miles distant. Indian 
Lake (P. O.) is one mile west of Indian River. A 
few houses at intervals along the road, a very com- 
fortable looking hotel, with stores, and a post-office, 
constitute the village. 

Indian Lake (that is, the lake proper), is about two 
miles south of the village. The original lake was 
about three miles long, but the "overflow " sets back 
in times of high-water, increasing its length to some- 
thmg more than twelve miles. Lewey Lake, is 



184 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

twelve miles south of Indian Lake Village. The 
"overflow" of Indian Lake at times reaches back to 
the falls at outlet of Lewey Lake, affording uninter- 
rupted navigation, with the exception of a short 
carry around the falls above mentioned, A little 
hotel at the head of Lewey Lake is kept by J. Mc- 
Cormick. Will accommodate about 40. P.O., Indian 
Lake. Cedar Lakes are reached by a rough 
eight-mile trail from this point west, or by road 
from Lake Pleasant, or via. Cedar River route from 
the Blue Mountain Lake road. The West Canada 
Lakes, belonging to another system, and discharg- 
ing into the Mohawk, may be reached from the Cedar 
Lakes by short carries — all, however,- reached much 
better from Gateway No. 8. 

******* 

Fonda, on theN. Y. C. R. R., 44 miles west of 
Albany, is Gateway No. 8. The Fonda, Johnstown 
and Gloversville R. R. extends to Northville, 26 
miles; fare 85c. Sacondaga Park, at the terminus 
of the railroad, has a commodious and well kept 
hotel, and a number of handsome summer cottages 
belonging to private parties. From Northville 
stages (fare $2.00) daily via. Wells 16 miles to 
Newton's Corners (Sturgess House). 26 miles, at the 
east end of Lake Pleasant and Lake Pleasant (100 
inhabitants), 3c miles, the county seat of Hamilton 
County, at the western end of the Lake. The State 
fish hatchery, two miles north of Newton's Corners, 
is worth a. visit. Between Lake Pleasant and Round 
Lake and near Lake Pleasant Post Office and Tele- 
graph Station, are the Lake Pleasant Inn, with ca- 
pacity for sixty guests (J. D. Morley, proprietor), and 
the Sacandaga Lake House, accommodating one hun- 
dred (J. T. Stearns, proprietor). Lake Pleasant and 
Round Lake (also called Sacandaga Lake) are each 
about four miles in length. Piseco Lake and Post 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 

•1 ^cf r.f T ake Pleasant, reached 
Office are eight miles ^vesto^ Lake ^^e ^^^^^^ ^^^^^ 

by daily stage (soc-). and can a^so ^diron- 

Trenton Falls and P^^^P^^^ ^^^^^^e Watertown and 
dack and St. Lawrence ^^^ ^^^7,"^^''^? piseco Lake 
Ogdensbnrgh Ra^r^^^t\h House and Prese of the 
(7l.iles long) are the a-b^^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^ in this 

Irondequoit Club. ,^^^/':^ ^Sting less expensive 
locality is very good and an o^^ng^.^^^F 

than m ^^me of the bette^ Lake, 4 miles ; T. Lake 
^Xs^muTs^ttc^^^^^^^^ - -iles; Spruce Lake 
Ind^he West Canada Lakes. 12 to 20 miles. ^ 

cedar River is .0 -^-^^-^ ^^^^^^^^ 
this point west runs a ^o^^^"\^^,^^^^ifeadwaters of the . 
around little Moose Lake and ^^^j^^.^^' .^^^^^ 
SouthBranchof Moose River The ^^ ay ;sr g^^ ^^_ 

the accommodations of a primitive n^^ ,^^^^.^^ .^ 
cause of these very conditions^ pernap ^.^^^^ 

visited by \^^^^^,y f,^4^riencTs of more frequented 
affinity for the sof^^[^^^P^;i,^:^^i,^,^nse at Wakeley Dam, 
sections. Itis 12 miiesto uie Sportsman's 

x8 to Little Moose Lake and 7 more to 
Home, at Indian Clearmg. ^^^m^ through almost 
Mountain Lake, 10 ^^lf;,^2^^,^^^fonal opening made 
continuous ^o^^^\^Zn^v ZTthe toVexpected 
by some stalwart settler ana tn ,,4tered 

• 'Half-way " house where the horses a 
and allowed to get W breat^ To'^serve the passen- 

f as?ation caused by the cyclone of 1S88. 




»fi 






■i ■ 



r-P 



A%, 



^n '^ ' ^- 



1" '-%^^-' 






#^ -■ -^^:>^:'^' 






BLUE MOUNTAIN 



LAKE HOUSE, 



CHAPTER IX. 

Blue Mountain, Raquette and 
Long Lake. 

BLUE MOUNTAIN LAKE is fairly in the Great 
North Woods. It is the opening of communication 
by boat with the magnificent system of lakes and 
streams which cover so large a portion of the Southern 
Adirondack Wilderness. It is an irregular oval in 
shape, i,Soo feet above tide, extends nearly three miles 
its longest way, and empties at the west through 
Eagle and Utowana lakes into Raquette Lake. 

Blue Mountain Lake House is on the east 
shore of the deep bay which first appears as we 
approach from North Creek. Capacity about 400. 
John G. Holland, proprietor. The house is spacious 
and attractive. The main part is four stories high and 
150 feet long, with fine, broad piazza, facing the 
lake, and with a rear extension almost as large as the 
main building. It stands on an evelation, over- 
looking a grove of native trees, through which 
paths lead down to the sandy beach, from which the 
steamboat starts on its daily trips down the lake. 
Ten outlying cottages, among the trees, afford very 
desirable' quarters for those who may prefer apart- 
ments removed from the stir and bustle of a great 
hotel. Telegraph office connecting with the Western 
Union system, and stage and steamboat ticket offices, 
are in the hotel. Stateroom and sleeping car berths 
can be secured here. Mr. Holland is the pioneer hotel 
man of this section. He is genial, accommodating 
and popular, winning the esteem of his guests; so 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



i8g 



that those who have once enjoyed his hospitality are 
generally his warm advocates thereafter. With him 
the house has a patronage greater, perhaps, according 
to Its capacity, than any other one in the wilderness. 
For rates, etc., see page 266. The original Lake 
House was the first hotel at Blue Mountain Lake, 
built there in 1874, by Dr. G. R. Martine, to whose 

energy and far-sight- 
edness much credit is 
due for the initiatory 
in opening up this 
now popular gateway 
into the wilderness, 
and for whose un- 
swerving belief in the 
valuable curative 
properties of this high 
mountain region 
many have reason to 
feel grateful. Dr. 
Martine is now in the 
active practice of his 
profession at Glens 
Falls, N. Y., and one 
of the town's most 
honored citizens. 
The Blue Mountain House is on the east about 
a mile north of the Lake House. Capacity of house 
and cottages alDout 80. P. O , Blue Mountain Lake. 
Open all the year. A telegraph office in the house. 
Tyler M. Merwin, proprietor. The house stands on a 
spur of Blue Mountain, 200 feet above the water, to 
which the surface drops sharply. The view is one of 
the loveliest imaginable, revealing the lake in its en- 
tirety with the island studded plain at our feet, the 
receding shores leading away to the outlet, and over 
beyond it the lengthened reach of Eagle Lake, with a 




G. R. MARTINE, M. D. 



IQO 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



glimpse of Utowana and the verdant slopes that com- 
pass about the shores of Queenly Raquette. A path 
leads down through the thick forest to where a fleet 
of dainty Adirondack boats lie snugly in boat house, 
or at rest on the sandy beach. The fare is whole- 




BLUE MOUNTAIN HOUSE. 

some, abundant and cleanly. A free carriage con- 
veys guests to and from the Lake House, to connect 
with the stage for North Creek, and stages pass the 
house daily for Long Lake, eight miles distant. For 
rates, etc. , see page 267. 

Tlie Prospect House is on the west shore a half 
mile beyond the Lake House. Howard M. Durant, 
proprietor. The house was built in 18S1 and is among 
the most imposing of Adirondack hotels. There are 
two or three other houses here, cheaper, and princi- 
pally with a local patronage. 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



191 



The Blue Mountain and Raquette Lake 
Steamers, J. G. Thompson, superintendent, are of 
light draft, that they may pass easily through the 
shallow streams connecting the lakes. One of these 
boats leaves the hotel docks morning and afternoon, 
and connects at Marion River Carry with steamer for 
Raquette Lake landings. They are well adapted to 
the particular needs of the traffic here, and the service, 
wnile working with clock-like regularity, is not ob- 
trusively formal, but lits in admirably with the sur- 




BLUE MOUNTAIN LAKE OUTLET. 

rounding conditions. The excursion is one of the 
most delightful ones of the wilderness — a source of 
continued surprise and enjoyment, introducing as it 
were, the traveler to the wild woods and lakes in the 
mildest manner possible, and giving him just a sug- 
gestion of the difficulties of portage between waters, 
that will be found later on. Extra boats are subject 
to charter, affording a means of exploring the nooks 
and b3^-ways of lakes and tributary streams. The 
line belongs to W. W. Durant, ex-President of the 
Adirondack Railroad, and owner of a number of 
townships around this and Raquette lakes. As we 



192 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



pass out into the open lake leaving the Lake House, 
Blue Mountain rises in graceful outline behind us. On 
its western slope, high above the water, is the Moun- 
tain House; nearer is Thatcher's Island, the property 
of ex-Mayor Thatcher, of Albany. On the point pro- 
jecting from the south shore, near the outlet, is the at- 
tractive summer place of Colonel Duryea, of New 
York. Memorial Bridge, rustic in design, and 
resting on heavy stone piers, spans the outlet of the 

lake, its expen- 
sive character 
hardly veiled as 
yet by the vines 
that are de- 
signed in time to 
cover its mass- 
ive approaches. 
A bronze tablet 
let into masonry 
on one side bears 
the following in- 
scription : "Pio- 
neer Bridge. In memory of Dr. Thomas Clark Du- 
rant. Projector, Builder, Vice-President and General 
ManagCj- of the first trans-continental railway, The 
Union I'acific, President and builder of the Adiron- 
dack Railway. Erected by his son William West Du- 
rant. Anno Domini 1S91." Passing through the out- 
let with slfxkened speed Eagle Lake is entered. 
This lake is about one ' mile long, with low, wooded 
shores, except on the north side, where in a clearing 
stands the old log house known as the" Eagle's Nest," 
where " Ned Buntline" came in 1856, and where he 
wrote, and hunted, and filled the mind of the pu'- ic 
■with wild reports of his erratic doings to his heart's 
content. He married a wife and buried her here, and 
then, tired of the old place, drifted out into the 
world again. 




MEMORIAL BRIDGE. 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



193 



^L' »ee?beg';n\n earh childhooi He killed his 

?J:iJt?en,thesLeyearfought^^endueJsw^^^^^^^^^ 

to mess with him on ac- 
count of his suppof.ed in- 
ferioritv, and threatened 
to deplete the whole bud- 
ding na\T unless he was 
acknowledged as an 
equal. The navy wilted ! 
He served with credit m 
the Seminole war, andm 
the Mexican war, and 
when the war cloud broke 
over the South, his 
venturesome spirit called 
him . to the field once 
more. Five wounds by 
" NED BUNTUNE." sabre and bullet, one of 

which made him lame for life, testify to Ws service for 

^rfirsc'orn%;nxseT?h^e%Toird'^^^^^^^^ 

later at intervals, as novelist, dramatist, actor and 
temperance advocate he filled the public mind ike- 
nTTeTnderthe sun but only ^^^^^^^ly.p 
irrpnressible His first story. The Captain s rig, 

:.asT-b"*«^d i- ^'^ fift<=^"'^ '-'t, ^BuffaloBin 
"Frontier Fiction" he was unexcelled. Buttalo Bill, 

Texas Tack and Wild Bill were made famous by his 
JtoS;lfborder Hfe. His income - -^'T J-^ 
amounted to $20,000 annually. His literary piuuuc 
S^s would make more than two hundred large vol- 
SSies He was foremost in orgamzmg the order of 




[94 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 




" United Americans" and the " Patriotic Order Sons 
of America," He died July i6, 1886, at his mountain 
home, the " Eagle's Nest," in Delaware Co., N.Y. 

A somewhat longer stream than the one we have 
just left leads through drowned lands, from Eagle 
into Utowana Lake which is about two miles long, 
narrow and straight, running away toward the west. 
Passmg through it and into its outlet the landing is 
soon reached where stands a rustic waiting-room at 

the dam which has 

raise d the water, 
making navigable the 
streams back into 
Blue Mountain Lake. 
From this landing a 
road leads to the head 
of navigation, on the 
Marion River, a half-mile distant. You have noticed, 
perhaps, that the whistle was blown some way back, 
and in response, as we approach, a one-horse wagon, 
with a rigging somewhat like a hay-rack, makes its 
appearance. Into this the baggage is tumbled, the 
boats tied on (if any are there to be carried), and the 
weaker members of the party, or those who may pre- 
fer to ride, take their places. Few do care to ride, 
however, for this carry is simply an excellent road 
through the woods, resembling in no respect the slip- 
pery carries of the back country. At its west end we 
find another steamer, somewhat larger than the one 
we have just left but belonging to the same family, as 
you will conclude from its jaw-breaking Indian name. 
There is a steam mill here doing a good business in 
the preparation of the coarser lumber used in building 
in this section, and a large boarding house that will 
on occasion be found a welcome stopping place at 
rieht. The Marion River, is one of the crooked- 
c^i rivers in the world. It has no perceptible current 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



195 



along its reedy shores, but wanders back and forth 
between the low hills, in a succession of loops, that 
makes the way traversed, which is about two miles in 
a straight line, double that distance before open water 



0.Mi . 






I 





MARION RIVER LANDING. 

is reached. This is the largest feeder of the 
Raquette, and enters it through a gradually widen- 
ing estuary, beyond which is seen the islands and the 
broad lake. Raquette Lake is but a great mass oi 
bays, separated by far-reaching points, extending 
east and west. Its greatest length is but about 
five miles, measured through islands and inter- 
vening headlands ; yet so irregular is its shape 
that the shore line, in its devious windings, 
is over 40 miles in extent. It is said that the 
first house built at Raquette Lake stood on Indian 
Point, where an effort was made at farming. 
A twenty years' struggle, however, ended in its 
abandonment ; and, when we passed by, in 1873, only 







•9 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



197 




ALVAH DUNNING. 



one lone man — old Alva Dunning, lived Robinson 
Crusoe-like on Osprey Island, with only his dogs for 
companions, monarch of the 
beautiful lake, the Sabbath 
stillness broken only by an 
occasional party in camp or 
passing boat. Later, Alvah 
gave up possession of his is- 
land and built a little cabin at 
the mouth of the Brown Tract 
Inlet, where he may be found 
still, solitary and alone, a man 
with a history. Now how dif- 
ferent the scene! A fibre 
from the throbbing mass of 
travel has pierced the depths 
and its shores are teeming 
with life. Comfortable hotels have sprung into sudden 
and thrifty existence to meet the requirements of the 
season, and the shrill whistle of the coming steamer 
calls forth jo3'Ous crowds for their daily budget of 
news from the outer world. 

Raquette Lake Post Office is on Long Point, 
at the left as we emerge from Marion River and pass 
out in the gradually broadening lake. Mail addressed 
to Raquette Lake is delivered'here, unless, as is cus- 
tomarv. each hotel, camp and cottage has furnished 
its individual mail-bag, which the accommodating 
steamboat captain gathers and delivers daily. It has 
a Telegrapli Office also in the building with the 
post-office — a bit of enterprise for which thanks are 
due W. W. Durant. 

" The Hemlocks " stands just west of the Post 
Office, flanked by pretty rustic cottages on either side, 
one formerly occupied by Madam Gerster at the east, 
and the Cotterell Cottage on the west, with capacity, 
all told, for about 60 guests. There are hemlocks 



200 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

taking upon itself a degree of individuality according 
to the taste and disposition of its occupants, interest- 
ing to observe. Provisions are also made to entertain 
transient guests here on the same general plan. Ac- 
commodations are offered for about 75. Boats, 
guides, camp supplies and fishing necessaries can be 
had of the proprietor. The steamboat stops at this 
point about an hour and a half to allow time for din- 
ner. The proprietor of the Antlers is genial, atten- 
tive and obliging and has made many friends. The 
Antlers has its special attractions and is particularly 
noted for excellence of table. For rates see page 267. 
A line of row-boats run to connect with the Fulton 
Cbain steamer at the head of Fourth Lake, connect- 
ing with the A. & St. L. R. R. Through fare about 
$3.00. Tlie Open Camp, a pleasant feature of the 
Adirondacks, is seen in its best form and here, at 
night— when the logs piled high and blazing flood the 
interior with pleasant warmth, thawing the most 
crusty into genial friendliness — gather the minister, 
the author, the playwright, the musician, and even 
the haughty broker, to melt and become better ac- 
quainted in an evening than ordinarily by a whole 
season's intercourse in the hotel parlor. 

Sunset Camp is on Wood's Point almost due 
north from The Hemlocks. The accommodations are 
in a twelve room house, with two rustic cottages and 
open camps. The steamboat lands at the dock when 
required to discharge passengers and baggage. 
Fresh cream and milk, and all kinds of vegetables are 
promised, with fish and venison in their season. It is 
particularly a sport^mans' resort, as the proprietor, 
*' Dick " Bennett as he is familiarly called, is a noted 
guide and hunter of tha^ section, guiding himself 
for his guests or furnishing guides whenever required, 
with boats and camp necessaries. Accommodations 
are here offered for about 25 guests. For rates see 
page 263-B. 



202 THE ADIROXDACKS. 

Briglitside-on-Raq.uette stands among the 
trees on the south side of Indian Point under ' ' The 
Crags." The main building is finished in native 
woods with a degree of elegance that bespeaks the 
artistic feeling of the builder who is also the pro- 
prietor. It is nicely furnished throughout. The ac- 
commodations offered are sufficient for about 20 
guests. J. O. A. Bryere, proprietor. For rates see 
appendix. Mr. Br^-ere is noted for artistic skill in 
the manufacture of rustic furniture. His services in 
this particular line are at a premium in the woods 
and many camps hereabout show beautiful specimens 
of his skill. Rush Point Camp, near South Inlet, 
kept by honest, big-hearted Jo. Whitney, accommo- 
dates 10. "Uncle jo's" flowers are alone worth going 
there to see. Blanchard's Wigwam, on Green Point, 
west of Camp Stott, C. W. Blanchard, proprietor, 
offers entertainment for 25 guests. 

Unique and pretty features of Raquette Lake are 
its Cliurclies, one of the Roman Catholic faith, 
standing among the trees near the Post Office, and 
the other (Episcopalian) on a small island south of 
Osprey Island, where services are conducted regularly 
throughout the summer, the congregation coming by 
steamers and row-boats. The officiating clergyman 
of the last named church occupies the rectory on the 
island during the season. Tlie Camps of Raquette 
Lake are elegant affairs, and although built of rustic 
material found ready to the hand, it is apparent that 
twisted cedar, shaggy spruce and silvery birch, in 
their native vestments, were not chosen because they 
cost nothing there. Some of these camps are works 
of art, and filled with dainty bric-a-brac ; generally, 
however, pertaining to Avoodsy things, and in keeping 
with their native environment. The pioneer camp of 
this section, and one of the most artistic in the woods, 
is "Camp Pine Knot," on South Ba^-. It was com- 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



203 



menced in the winter of 1S76-7, by its present owner, 
W. W. Durant, and completed — well, to tell the truth, 
these camps are never completed really, for one of 
the fascinating features of the camp is that it is 
bound by no rule of time or architecture. It expands 
and blossoms with the passing season, and is never 




CAMP PINE KNOT. 

exacth- the same one year that it was the year before, 
but it is always finished enough for comfort — it is 
"otetiwi." Echo Camp, on Long Point, west of the 
Raquette Lake House, tasteful and artistic, belongs 
to ex-Gov. Lounsbery, of Connecticut. ' ' Camj) Fair 
View," on Osprey Island, belonging to Mrs. LaDew, 
of New York, is an excellent specimen of ornate rus- 
tic architecture. Deerhurst Camp, on Ken well's 
Point, belongs to Mr. Wm. Strange, of Paterson, N. 
J. ; the cottage standing on the north side of this 
point is that of Senator McCarthy, of Syracuse. Sen- 
ator Henderson has a pleasant camp on the south side 



204 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

of Indian Point. "Camp Stott," the summer place 
of Com. Frank Stott, of Stottville, Columbia Co., is 
on the long point north of Kenwell's Point. A camp 
belonging to James Tenyck, of Albany, and " Camp 
Hasbrouck," are on the north shore near the outlet. 
"Camp Otetiwi," (always ready), belonging to Dr. 
A. G. Gerster, of New York, is on the large island 
west of Cam.p Pine Knot. " Camp Osceola" on the 
west near the Brown Tract inlet, withdraws from pub 
lie gaze among the thickly crowding trees, but those 
who are fortunate enough to gain favor there will re- 
ceive a right royal welcome from its owner, Dr. 
Seneca D.Powell, of West 40th St., New York. Happy 
the favored visitor to one of these camps, and happ}^ 
the owner. Say what you will, the fact cannot be 
disguised, we are all children and enjoy playing 
house ; only, at sixty, we need a ten-thousand-dollar 
lodge in a vast wilderness, when at six, a piece of old 
carpet, stretched over a corner in the rail fence, satis- 
fied all our earthly desires. 

Sumner Park, southeast of Raquette Lake, is held 
as a private game and fish preserve by the owner of 
Camp Pine Knot. It consists of township 6 with por- 
tions of township 5 to include the whole of Sumner 
Lake and Mohegan Pond, the South Inlet and the 
southern shores of South Bay. It is all under police 
patrol and the public is warned against trespassing 
under penalty of the law. Raquette Lake owes much 
of its prosperity to Mr. Durant, and only the most 
rabid of communists can question the justice — as it is 
unquestionably his right — of reserving this part, 
forming less than half of his possessions in this sec- 
tion, for his personal use. 

********* 

Forked Lake is north of Raquette Lake outlet, 5 
miles long east and west, quite straight on its south 
side, irregular along the north and opening up into a 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 20$ 

far-reaching bay — itself the main branch on which is 
strung a succession of deep bays, with intervening 
points extending from east to west. This deep bay 
continues toward the north to form Little Forked Lake 
through which, by the "Bottle Pond Route," Tupper 
Lake is reached. Forked Lake House looks into 
this north bay from the south shore a half mile north 
of the steamboat landing on the outlet of Raquette 
Lake. This is included in the property belonging to 
the "Hamilton Park Club." Transient visitors can 
procure meals here, but it is understood that no 
permanent guests will be taken except members of the 
club and their friends. 

From the outlet of Forked Lake a mile-and-a-half 
carry is encountered (horse draw-over, $1.50 for boat 
and baggage), then follows nearly the same distance 
of uncertain boating to the head of a short carry 
around Buttermilk Falls, where the water dashes 
and foams over the rocks in a descent of about 20 feet, 
the name, not very poetical, probably suggested by 
the churning it gets in reaching bottom. This is gen- 
erally understood to be the "Phantom Falls," over 
which Murray went in his boat in pursuit of the phan- 
tom form, as described in his early chronicles of 
adventures in the wilderness. ' ' A very probable story 
for a viiiiister to tell," said my old guide to me once 
in passing. "Why, I drove a brood of young ducks 
down over there-once — the old one knew better than 
to go — she flew up stream ; but they — a dozen of 'em — 
went over, and only three came out alive. He talk of 
shooting Buttermilk Falls — there isn't Baptist enough 
about him — but there's one thing he can 'shoot'; 
that's the long bow." Alas for Mr. Murray's reputa- 
tion for veracity ! The beautiful creations of fancy, 
conjured up by his fertile brain, are held as witnesses 
against him, simply because, in his lavish generosity, 
he enriched the common occurrences of ever^^-rl^V 



2o6 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

life in the woods with the precious incense of concep- 
tive genius, and left a dazzled world to separate the 
real from the ideal ! The guides took him literally, 
and, although then in the high tide of his popularity, 
had come to the conclusion that if his preaching was 
not a better guide to Heaven than his book to the 
Adirondacks his congregation might manage to worry 
along with a cheaper man. 

Another half mile of boating with another carry of 
equal length brings the voyageur to the navigable 
waters at the head of Long Lake. 

"Long Lake is about 14 miles long and i mile in 
width at the widest part, which is is near its outlet. 
It runs in a northeasterly direction, , receives the 
waters of the Raquette at its head and gives them up 
to the Raquette River at its foot, which, flowing 
northward, passes within about 2 miles of LTpper 
Saranac Lake, then turns west, touching the foot of 
Tupper Lake, thence northwesterly past Potsdam to 
the St. Lawrence. Its shores are strikingly diverse at 
different points, showing bold cliffs, gentle slopes, 
overhanging trees and beautiful sand beaches at 
intervals along their extended stretch. It has several 
very pretty islands, the larger ones near the north 
end'. Owl's Head Mountain, near the head of the 
lake, on the west, is marked on the map as being 
2,825 feet above tide, but as Long Lake is 1,614 feet 
above tide, this isn't much of a mountain after all. 
To the west the country is comparatively level ; on the 
east IS Mount Kempshall ; on the north is seen the 
blue serrated summit of Mount Seward, 4,384 feet 
above tide. 

Ttie Grove House is about two miles from the 
head in a grove of tall pines on the abrupt eastern 
bank of the lake, seven miles from Raquette and nine 
miles from Blue Mountain lake. Capacity of house 
50. David Helms, proprietor. Post-office .jrove. 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



207 



Hamilton Co.) in the house. Open all the year. 
Features of the place are open camps, and cottages 
with open fire-places. Mr. Helms is a noted guide 

and hunter and his house 
a favorite resort for hunt- 
ers and fishermen. He 
knows where game and 
fish are found, and this 
knowledge is freely 
placed at the service of 
his visitors. Boats, pas- 
sengers or baggage will 
be carried from this point 
to Forked or Blue Moun- 
tain Lake when desired. 
For rates, etc., see page 
269. 
Ttie New Sagamore 
DAVID HELMS. stands on a bluff project- 

ing from the east shore of the lake about 4 miles from 
its head. It has capacity for about 2 50 guests, bd- 
ward Butler, proprietor ; Post-office Long Lake. From 
its location it commands a view of almost the entire 
length of the lake, north and south, i his is tne 
grand hotel of the section. The erection of the old 
hotel here in 1885 marked an era m the history of the 
town by creating a prosperous business out ot the 
pleasures and necessities of its guests. It was burnt 
to the ground in the fall of 18S9 with all its contents. 
The new house erected in the place of the old is very 
like the original, except that it is finer and grander in 
all respects. It is ample in ali its proportions with 
spacious halls, office, dining room and parlors and a 
general smoking and lounging room where guide and 
Iportsman gather to make plans for coming excur 
sionsorto live over again the stirring. events of the 




THE ADIRONDACKS, 209 

day. It has all the necessary conveniences of the 
modem hotel, substantially and in parts, elegantly, 
furnished and will be found as comfortable as any 
visitor can reasonably desire. The water supply is 
drawn from a large mountain spring, and the sanitary 
arrangements are as perfect as the most approved 
scientific methods can secure. The same liberality 
and excellence as to cuisine, for which this house has 
been noted, will undoubtedly be continued. Connec- 
tion is had with the W. U. telegraph in the Sagamore 
oihce, Mails arrive and depart daily. Tally-ho 
coaches will run to Blue Mt. Lake, nine miles distant, 
to connect with the regular line, to trains at North 
Creek, or private conveyance to the railroad, much 
more comfortable than the coaches, will be furnished, 
carrying three or more persons with light luggage at 
$6.00 each. Regular stage fare to North Creek is 
$4. 50. Long Lake is also accessible from the North by 
steamer to the head of Upper Saranac Lake ; thence 
via the Raquette River by row boats, a very pretty 
and enjoyable trip through this portion of the moun- 
tains. 

The Lake House is a quarter of a mile north of the 
Sagamore, at the point where the road from the east 
comes to the lake ; will provide for about 30. W. F. 
IvIcCarthy, manager. Long Lake Hotel at the vil- 
lage will provide for man and beast at a moderate 
price. Helms & Smith, proprietors. 

liOn^ Lake (village) lies a half mile east of the 
Lake. In the matter of business Long Lake lumbers 
some, farms some, trades a little, hunts and guides 
considerably, and makes sporting boats of superior 
quality and of a build that is recognized and spoken 
of generally as the " Long Lake boat," although the 
one in question may have been built many miles 
away. Although spots hereabouts have been settled 
and cultivated for many years, this section has, for 
lack of satisfactory accommodations and transporta- 
tior. taciiitieS; oa .■' neglected by sportsmen and sum- 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



mer visitors, and as a consequence has retained much of 
its wildness in its immediate surroundings. With the 
reopening of the Sagamore, one of the objections that 
have retarded its advance are removed. Another factor 
in its development is the growing interest in wild cot- 
tage sites— the natural longnig of man for ' ' a lodge in 

some vast wilderness"— 
and the resultant or- 
ganization of a company 
with a preserve of 4,000 
acres of land lying on 
both shores of the lake, 
and the offer, through 
their agent, of camp 
and villa sites of lo-acre 
lots each, including the 
game and forest priv- 
ilege of the entire tract, 
on a three or five year 
lease, with the privilege 
of purchasing at from 

FOREST PRESERVE ON LONG LAKE. $500 tO $1 ,000 any tlmC 

during its continuance. Application for purchase or 
lease may be made to General Hazard Stevens, 53 
Devonshire street, Boston, Mass., or to Henry D. 
Kellogg, Agent. Long Lake, N. Y. Among those 
Avho have become purchasers are Rev. F. S. Haines 
of Easton, Pa., and Dr. J. H. Woodward of Burling- 
ton, Vt., who has built a pretty camp at "White 
Birches " Point. Senator Piatt has a summer camp 
on the east shore near the outlet, and nearly opposite 
is the camp of Rev. Dr. Duryea. The Island 
House, on an island near the outlet, affords enter- 
tainment for 35 guests. The fare is exceedingly 
wholesome. Few spots can equal it as a sporting 
centre. Rates $2.00 per day. A. C. Robinson, pro- 
prietor. See page 267. 




CHAPTER X. 



The Great West Lake Region. 

UTICA, 95 miles west of Albany, may be termed 
gateway No. 9, although for a fact it supersedes 
most of the old western gateways, and divides with 

east-side lines the 

patronage of the 
important central 
resorts. From 
this point theAdi- 
rondack Division 
of the New York 
Central extends 
in a northeasterly 
direction, c e n - 
trally through the 
lake region of the 
Adirondack s, 
passing about 
two miles west of 
the Fulton Chain 
to TupjDer Lake ; 
thence around 
the head of Up- 
per S a r a n a c 
Lake, with a 
branch to the 
Low^er Lake; thence northerly past Rainbow and 
Loon Lake to Malone. The New York Central 
& Hudson River Railroad, carries by far the 
larger proportion of the people who go out of New 
York to the lakes and mountains of the north. In 
addition to trains running to Saratoga and east side 
resorts are Special fast express trains from Grand 




212 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

Central Station, New York, morning and evening, 
composed of Wagner Vestibule Buffet Drawing-room 
and Sleeping Cars, running through without change 
to Fulton Chain Lakes, Childwold, Tupper Lake, 
Saranac Lake, Paul Smith's, Loon Lake, Malone, 
Montreal, and Ottawa. 

Moose River House is 4 miles west of Mc- 
Keever, which is 269 miles from New York. Capacity 
30. A. F. Risley, proprietor. This house is on the 
western border of the Great Wilderness and affords 
good hunting and fishing for those who may not care 
to penetrate deeper. It is 11 miles from Port Leyden 
and 12 miles from Boonville, on the R., W. & O. Rail- 
road. Conveyance for these points- can be had of 
Mr. Risley. For price of board, etc, see page 256. 

Fulton Cbain (station) is 281 miles from New 
York. Here is the old Arnold clearing, which a cen- 
tury ago promised to become a centre of consider- 
able importance. This section is often spoken of as 
the *' Brown Tract," and comprehends the lands 
lying around the head-waters of the Moose River. 
It was so called after John Brown, of Providence, 
R. I. (who must not be confounded with that other 
John Brown, the " Old Man of Ossawatomie," who 
lies buried at North Elba), who became its owner in 
1793. Under direction of Brown's son-in-law a large 
forge was built below the first of the Fulton Chain of 
Lakes and the manufacture of iron attempted. At 
one time thirty to forty families were gathered here, 
but the venture proved a failure and little besides the 
more substantial portions of the old forge remains 
now to mark the spot. Old Forge (hamlet and 
P. O.) is two miles from the station at the old forge 
dam, built on the outlet of the Fulton Cham of Lakes. 
It consists of a dozen or so houses, a saw-mill, the 
Fulton Chain Fish Hatchery and a very good hotel — 
Tlie Forge House— with capacity for about 120 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 213 

guests. This house is open all the year. Garmon & 
Crosby, proprietors. Stage to station, 25 cents. 

Tlie Fulton Cliain is composed of eight lakes 
extending in a norteasterly direction from Old Forge. 
Their combined lengths, with connecting streams 
and carries, including 4 miles boating on the Brown 
Tract Inlet into Raquette Lake, is about 26 miles. 
The dam at Old Forge renders the stream navigable 
and makes First, Second and Third lakes practically 
one sheet of water. Bald Mountain House is at 
the head of Third Lake, 5 miles from Old Forge. By 
stage and boat from Fulton Chain Station, 50 cents. 
The house is new, with capacity for 100 guests. C. 
M. Barrett & Co., proprietors. Open from May i to 
December. P. O., Old Forge. For rates see appen- 
dix. Guides, boats, etc., can be engaged here during 
the season. Fourth Lake is the largest of the chain, 
being nearly six miles in length. It contains a num- 
ber of pretty islands and a number of public camps 
where entertainment can be obtained at from $7 to 
$10 per week. The most noted of these are the Fourth 
Lake House, near the outlet, the Cedar Island Camp, 
on an island near the head of the lake, W. C. Augur, 
proprietor, and Rocky Point Inn, at the north end. 
In addition are the Alexander and the Arnold Camps 
at points on the south shore. Wood's Camp, and the 
Hess Camp at the outlet of Fifth Lake. A half mile 
stream, navigable during high water, connects Fourth 
Lake with Fifth, which is but a little pond. From 
this a half mile carry leads into Sixth Lake. The 
shores here and of the stream through which we go 
into Seventh are a slimy protest against the damming 
and overflow of public lands. Seventh Lake is about 
two miles long, with sandy beach in places, its beauty 
much impaired, however, by the flooding that renders 
the inlet up which we go one mile, anything but at- 
tractive. 



THE ADIROXDACKS. 215 

From the head of navigation, a mile carry leads into 
Eighth Lake which, wonderful to relate, still preserves 
its shores almost untouched by man. This lake is two 
miles in length and contains an island on which is a 
log camp. A trail one and a half mile long passes 
from the head of Eighth Lake up over the divide and 
down to the Brown Tract Inlet, which, followed east- 
ward four miles of devious windings brings the voy- 
ageur to Raquette Lake, for which see page 195. 
A Boat Iiine has been established for carrying pas- 
sengers through from Old Forge. Fare for the trip 
$3. Steamer runs daih^ morning and afternoon 
(Sunday excepted), from the head of Fourth Lake to 
Old Forge and return. Fare 25 cents to $1.00 from 
various points according to distance. 
•H- ***** * 

Tlie Adirondack League Club Preserve lies 
southeast of Old Forge, partially m Herkimer and 
partially in Hamilton counties. This is one of the 
largest private sporting preserves in this country, the 
forest lands owned by the Club in fee comprising 
over 104,000 acres, while it has leased the exclusive 
hunting and fishing privileges of about 75,000 acres 
more, adjoining its property on the east and south. 
The section has an average elevation of 2,200 feet. 
The old Bisby Club, with its 25 members, has recently 
consolidated with the Adirondack League Club, 
under the name of the latter. The oldest of all the 
Adirondack clubs joined in interests with the largest! 
The Bisby Club: owned 320 acres and leased many 
thousand in the Woodhull tract, directly west of the 
League's great preserve. First Bisby Lake, and the 
other near waters, are abundantly stocked with fish. 

Bisby Lodge, the Club house on First Bisby, is 
comfortable and pleasant, and will be an important 
and useful link in the chain of club houses and club 
camps, which the League is establishing throughout 



2l6 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

its preserve. Bisby Lodge is reached by wagon from 
While Lake Station, or by easy trail from Mountain 
Lodge, tlie club house of the League on Little Moose 
Lake. All the property of the Bisby Club has been 
deeded to the League and the members of the former 
become members of the latter, while the Bisby Club, 
as such, has gone out of existence. Henry Studor is 
manager. 

The Adirondack League Club was organized in 1890 
by a number of gentlemen of sporting proclivities, for 
the purpose of establishing a game preserve in a 
chosen quarter of the Adirondack wilderness and to 
put into practice the system of rational forestry pre- 
vailing on the continent of Europe, which reconciles 
the preservation and continual reproduction of forest 
areas with a continual and increasing income. The 
Trustees of the Club are Abraham G. Mills, Hon. 
Warner Miller, Hon. Henry E. Howland, Robert C. 
Alexander, Dr. Bernhard E. Fernow, Henry S. Har- 
per. Mills W. Barse, Ole L. Snyder, Hon. AVarren 
Higley. Wm. H. Boardman, Wm. G. DeWitt, George 
H. Ripley, Dr. C. N. Hoagland, L ol. R. F. Wilkin- 
son, Spencer Aldrich, Geo. W. Parkhurst. 

The officers are : President. A. G. Mills ; Vice-Pres- 
ident, Warren Higley ; Treasurer, Spencer Aldrich ; 
Secretary, William H. Boardman, 32 Park Place, 
New York. Professor B. E. Fernow, Chief of the 
Forestry Division of the Department of Agricul- 
ture at Washington, is one of the Trustees, and the 
forestry adviser of the Club, and is in the active 
management of its forest policy. A contract for the 
removal of the spruce above 12 inches in diameter at 
a stumpage price, which already guarantees the Club 
an income from this source of $30,000 a year, is in 
operation, and this income it is claimed could be in- 
creased to $60,000 a year without detriment to the 
tract as a hunting or fishing preserve, and with posi- 
tive benefit to the forest. 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 217 

The plan of the Club contemplates a possible mem- 
bership of 500. Membership shares are $1,500 per 
share. Each share is unassessable, and entitles the 
holder to an undivided five-hundredth interest in the 
property, with all its hunting and fishing privileges, 
and also to a five acre site wherever selected, for a 
cottage or camp, which is deeded to each member in 
fee. Most of the sites so far selected have been on 
Honnedaga, First Bisby or Little Moose Lakes, and 
several handsome cottages have been erected on each. 
*' Forest liOdge," the Club house on Honnedaga 
Lake, is kept by Egbert Flansburg, as manager for 
theClub. P. O., "Honnedaga Lake." Theapproach 
is by wagon from Prospect, on the R., W. & O. and 
also the A. & St. L. The most approved route this 
year, however, is from Forestport station, where Wm, 
Mulchi meets passengers and drives them to the head 
of Honnedaga Lake, where the club launch "Hon- 
nedaga " meets incoming members and takes them to 
the -Club House at the other end of the Lake. 

Mountain Lodge, the new club house on Little 
Moose Lake, P. O., Old Forge, is reached by boat from 
First Lake, a quarter of a mile from the Lodge. The 
more direct route, however, is by the new private 
highway built by the club, direct from the railroad 
station to the club house by the club carriage. F. E. 
Schenck is manager for the club. Each member of 
the club is entitled to invite a friend for two weeks 
each season to accompany him. Application for mem- 
bership may be sent to Hon. Warner Miller, Chairman 
of the Committee on Admissions, or to Robert C. 
Alexander, Secretary, 203 Broadway, New York. The 
New York office of the club is 32 Park Place. 

******* 

Big Moose Lake is 3^ Miles from Big Moose 
Station and may be reached by buckboard and boat. 
It lies about five miles in an air line north of Fourth 



2l8 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

Lake of the Fulton Chain and may be reached 
through Bub's, Moss and Second Lakes of the North 
Branch chain, by leaving Fourth Lake near Wood's 
Camp. There are several public camps here with 
rates from^io to $14 per week, notably Higby Camp, 
J. H. Higby, proprietor, and Camp Crag, H. H Covey, 
proprietor. For partic^ilars see appendix. P. O. ad- 
dress, Big Moose, N. Y. 

Beaver River (Station), is about 20 miles north 
of Fulton Chain (3011^ from New York). A small 
steamer runs from the landing down the river to Dun- 
bar's carrying mails. Rough boating and road leads 
west to the Fenton House at Beaver Lake. 
Charles Fenton, proprietor. P. O. Number Four, 
Lewis Co. This point is more generally reached via 
the R. W. &. O. R. R. to Lowville, thence by buck- 
board 18 miles to this point. Fare $2. The house 
stands on an elevation, overlooking the lake, 133 feet 
above its surface. In addition to the main building 
are cottages suitable for families, with an aggregate 
capacity for 160 guests. This house is open all the 
year. The powerful "Beaver River Club," whose 
tramping ground this is, is opposed to " hounding." 
As a result, deer that have been driven from other 
sections by the dogs seek this quieter place, so the 
true sportsman never lacks for game worthy of his 
skill. Mr. Fenton promises "to show from one to 
five deer around the lake, within sight of the hotel, 
toward the close of any day in the early summer." 
Superior trout-fishing is also to be had in Beaver 
River. It will be well to arrange with Mr. Fenton to 
meet you at Lowville with carriage, as staging is un- 
certain. Beaver Lake is ii^ miles in length. A 
smaller body of water, closely connected on the south, 
is called Beaver Pond. Crooked Lake may be reached 
by boat, i]4, miles, and carry to the north 1% miles. 
Francis Lake is about one mile south, and is some- 
thing over one mile in length. 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 219-A 

The Carthage and Adirondack Railway- 
extends from Carthage to Benson Mines, a disiance 
of 43 miles. Lake Bonaparte, 17 miles from 
Carthage, is of some note as a summer fishing resort, 
with a comfortable hotel, and was first brought into 
notice as the retiring place or Joseph Bonaparte, the 
Nephew of his Uncle. Oswegatchie Station is 39 
miles from Carthage. From this point it is six miles 
to Fine, where boats may be taken by prearrange- 
ment with guide, for Cranberry Lake via. the Oswe- 
gatchie River. Star Lake is 2^^ miles south of Oswe- 
gatchie Station, where two good hotels supply neces- 
sary entertainment. Benson Mines is the terminus 
of the road. From this point a trail leads south to 
the head of the overflow of Cranberry Lake and 
another to its outlet. Cranberry Lake was origin- 
ally about six miles in length, but a dam built at its 
outlet increased its area considerably and changed 
its shape. Its altitude is 1,540 feet.' Cranberry 
Liake Hotel stands near the outlet, capacity for 
about 85 guests. The house, renovated and refurn- 
ished, is again under the management of W. R. 
"Bishop. P.O., Cranberry Lake. Hunting and fish- 
ing outfits can be obtained here. For rates see page 
269. Stage to Benson Mines daily, during July and 
August ; Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays the rest 
of the year. Fare, including 100 lbs. of baggage, 
$1.50. 

The A. & St. L. railroad passes in a northeasterly 
direction through Ne-ha-sa-ne Park, crossing 
Beaver River at Little Rapids, thence continues be- 
tween Cranberry Lake on the west and Tupper Lake 
on the east, thence northward and out through the 
hop-fields of Salmon River valley to Malone. ' • Little 
Rapids" and "Ne-ha-sa-ne" are private stations to 
which no tickets are sold, being simply for the accom- 



2I9-B THE ADIRONDACRS. 

modation of persons connected with the park. Ne-ha- 
sa-ne Park belongs to Dr. W. Seward Webb. " Ne- 
ha-sa-ne" is Indian for " beaver crossing a log." The 
property belonging to Dr. Webb includes Second, 
Third and Fourth Lakes of the Fulton Chain, and 
the whole of Township 8, together with Township 42, 
East third of Township 5, Township 43 and triangle 
north of same, in Herkimer County ; and Townships 
38 and 37, in Hamilton County (except that portion of 
Township 37 lying north of the railroad). This prop- 
erty extends north to the St Lawrence County line in- 
cluding an area of nearly 250 square miles. The Park 
proper, however, which Dr. Webb reserves for his 
own use, includes only about 50,000 acr6s, taking in 
Lake Lila (formerly Smith's Lake), Ne-ha-sa-ne Lake 
(formerly Albany Lake), Nigger, Oven, Big Rock, 
Crooked, Clear and Witchopple Lakes and the Beaver 
River down to the Totten & Crossfield line and about 
a mile and a half on each side of the stream. About 
8,000 acres in the northeast portion of the preserve is 
enclosed by a strong wire fence 9 feet high. Within 
this enclosure Dr. Webb turned out in 1893, 55 elk, 20 
black-tail deer, 10 moose and a number of caribou. 
It is proposed to add other kinds of game-ani- 
mals and birds from time to time. It is fortunate 
that this wild domain is in the hands of one who has 
the disposition as well as the means to conduct the 
experiment on a large scale. The result will undoubt- 
edly demonstrate the practicability of propagating va- 
rious species of game in the wilderness region and 
furnish the best of object lessons as to methods, possibly 
leading m time to some system that may be applicable 
to larger territory, forming a nursery for the restocking 
of the whole. Next to state ownership, ownership of 
Adirondack lands by clubs and by such men as Dr. 
Webb is to be desired as tending toward the preserva- 
tion of the forests, which is the vital question among 
those whose interest is in the general welfare of the 
people. 



THE ADIRONDACKS, 2ig-C 

Mountain Park, Comprising Township 23, 
Hamilton County, with an area of about 100 square 
miles, lying east of the northern part of Ne-ha-sa-ne 
Park, is owned by a number of gentlemen of New 
York, in sympathy with Dr. Webb's ideas regarding 
Adirondack lands. Persons are allowed to camp on 
this property without any permit, provided they ob- 
serve the State laws regarding fish, game, and fires. 
The headquarters for this Park are at Pliny Robbins', 
on Little Tupper Lake. The nearest railroad station 
for Little Tupper Lake is Horse Shoe Pond, where all 
trains stop, and from which point a road runs to 
Round Pond and Long Lake. Permits will be 
granted to any reputable sportsman to hunt and fish 
upon all of Dr. Webb's property except the portion 
reserved for his own use, on condition that the State 
laws are observed regarding game, fish, and fires, and 
that no dogs are brought upon the property. Camp 
sites on Township 8, or tracts of land elsewhere in 
the property (outside of the Park proper) will be sold 
to desirable parties. For permits, and all informa- 
tion, application should be made to Dr. W. Seward 
Webb, Grand Central Station, New York, qr to E. M. 
Burns, Herkimer, N. Y. Dr. Webb limits the fishing 
for speckled trout under his permits this year to the 
use of the fly. No person will be allowed on any por- 
tion of the property without a permit. 

Brandreth Park, bounded on three sides by 
Ne-ha-sa-ne and Mountain Parks, is Township 39, of 
Hamilton County, containing about 40 square miles. 
It belongs to the Brandreths of Sing Sing and has 
been a private preserve for 20 years. Tatum Park, 
a triangular section northwest of the railroad, with 
the St. Lawrence Co. line as its northern boundary, 
contains about 18 square miles, including Mud and 
Bog lakes within its limits. This is owned by Charles 
Tatum of New York, and reserved by him as private 
hunting ground. 



CHAPTER XI. 



The Adirondack Park. 

THE FOREST PRESERVE was established by 
Act of Legislature in 1885, by which enactment 
" all the lands now owned or which may hereafter be 
acquired by the State of New York within the coun- 
ties of Clinton, 
Delaware Es- 
sex, Franklin, 
Fulton, Hamil- 
tori, Herkimer, 
Lewis, Oneida, 
Saratoga, St. 
Lawrence, War- 
ren, Washing- 
ton. Greene. Ul- 
ster, and Sulli- 
van shall consti- 
tute and be 
known as the 
Fore St Pre- 
serve." By the 
law of 1895 
' ' the care, cus- 
tody, control 
and supe ri n- 
tendence of the 
ADIRONDACK PARK. (uGHT PORTION.) Prescrvc for- 

merly entrusted to the late ForesfCommission, is now 
vested_ in the new "Fisheries, "Game, and Forest 
Commission," appointed by Governor Morton, April 
25, 1895.^ The latter Commission, as organized at 
present, is composed of five members, namely : Barnet 
H. Davis, of Palmyra; Henry H. Lyman, Oswego; 




THE ADIRONDACKS. 221 

William R. Weed, Potsdam; Charles H. Babcock, 
Rochester; and Edward Thompson, Northport, L. I. 
The Hon, Barnet H. Davis was appointed President 
of the Board. This Commission, in addition to the 
care and protection of the State forests, includes 
among its other duties the protection of fish and game, 
the propagation of food fish and shell fish, the main- 
tenance of fish hatcheries, and the care of the oyster 
beds in New York harbor or Long Island Sound. 

In addition to the Secretary and his clerical assist- 
ants in the Albany office, there is a large force in the 
field of fish and game protectors, some of whom act 
as foresters and are under the charge of the " Chief 
Fish and Game Protector and Forester." The for- 
estry interests in general are cared for by the " Forest 
Engineer," a position held by Col. William T. Fox, 
who was Superintendent of Forests under the former 
Commission . Besides these salaried officials there are 
281 Firewardens in the 281 towns in the Adirondack 
and Catskill Preserves, who are charged with the duty 
of extinguishing the forest fires which may occur in 
their respective districts. The Firewardens are ap- 
pointed by the Forest Commission, and receive no pay 
except when employed at a forest fire. They have 
power to warn out a posse of citizens to assist in ex- 
tinguishing a fire, and the men thus ordered out are 
also paid for their services, which, like those of the 
Firewarden, are a town charge. 

Tlie Adirondack Park was established by law 
passed in 1892, and placed in charge of the Forest 
Commission and its officials. Its lines, as defined by 
the act, to include the central and greater part of the 
Great Forests of Northern New York, At present the 
State owns less than one-quarter of its area, but it 
is expected that ere long the remainder will be ac- 
quired, and the entire forest within its boundaries put 
under State control. Before this can be done, the 
Legislature must make appropriations necessary for 



222 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

the purchase of the land, a measure which is being 
strongly urged by the press and intelligent sentiment 
of the people throughout the entire State. The Adi- 
rondack Park, as outlined, contains 2, 807, 760 acres, and 
has been accurately classified as follows: 

Primeval Forest,' i,575,4S3 

*Lumber Forest, 1,027,955 

Denuded, • 50,050 

Burned, 13,430 

Waste, 18,526 

Water, 57,104 

Wild Meadows, 495 

Improved 64,717 

Of the virgin forest, about 50 per cent, are conifers, 
although in many localities this proportion varies 
greatly. Colonel Wm. F. Fox, the Engineer of the 
Forestry Department, gives concisely, in the following 
article on Forests and Forestry, not only the 
theory and science of forestry, but is supposed to in- 
dicate the policy of the State on many of the topics 
treated: 

" The Forests of our State cover an area of 
over 8,000 square miles, and are situated principally 
in the Adirondack and Catskill regions. The Grea't 
Forest of Northern New York, or Adirondack Park, 
is larger than the State of Connecticut. In our coun- 
try the woods have been destroyed so rapidly that 
now the percentage of forest land in the United States 
is less than in Europe. New York has 18 per cent, of 
its area in forests while Germany has 26 per cent. 

Tlie preservation of our forests is necessary 
for the water supply on w-hich our rivers and canals 
depend ; for the climatic conditions favorable to agri- 
culture ; for the sanitary benefits afforded to invalids ; 
for the existence of fish and game ; for the preserva- 

*Forests from which the spruce and hemlock have been re- 
moved leaving a hard wood forest interspersed with young 
conifers. 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 223 

tion of natural scenery ; for the delightful places to 
which our people resort for rest and recreation ; and 
because the land now occupied by our great forests is 
unfit for agricultural use. But more important than 
any or all these reasons is that of our future timber 
supply. The others are incidental to this main one ; 
in securing that important point the others will be 
secured also. 

The forests, which clothe the slopes and plateaus 
of our mountain ranges, have important functions 
to perform. They are vast, natural reservoirs in 
which is stored the water that supplies our 
navigable rivers, turns our millwheels, and fills the 
canals which contribute so largely to the commercial 
supremacy of our State. This storage is effected in 
various ways. The leaves first break the force of 
showers, and then deliver the water slowly to the 
ground. The ground, or forest floor, or humus, as it 
is variously called, is a loose, cellular structure, com- 
posed mostly of fallen leaves, mosses and vegetable 
deposits hel5. in place by the roots of trees, and capable 
of holding water like a sponge. This humus, protected 
by the trees, and covering in our State several thousand 
square miles of surface, holds the rains of each season 
and discharges their waters slowly through the count- 
less springs and rivulets which run to the mountain 
brooks, and thence to the larger streams and rivers. 
In summer the foliage shades the swamps, and, by 
protecting them from the sun, prevents evaporation, 
thus allowing their contents to slowly percolate 
through the porous soil and find their way to the 
rivers. The shadows of the forest also protect the 
deep snows which otherwise would, in early spring, 
melt rapidly and be discharged faster than the needs 
of our waterways would require. But, if our forests 
should be destroyed, the sun's rays would soon dry 
up the swamps, the humus would be converted into a 



224 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

hard-baked soil, down whose impacted surface the 
rains would run unobstructed. The shallow layer of 
earth, no longer ^held in place by trees and roots, 
would slide from its place on the steep slopes, leaving 
the mountain sides gray and bare, down whose rocky 
declivities the rains would pour like water from the 
roof of a house. Our streams and rivers would no 
longer preserve their even flow, but there would be 
destinictive floods, followed by .disastrous drouths. 
This is no theor3\ It has happened elsewhere, and 
may happen here. In other countries there are many 
instances where a once fertile, prosperous region has, 
through the removal of its forests, and the consequent 
loss of rainfall, been converted into' a barren, unin- 
habited desert. 

Another important function is the regulation of 
tlie climate. ' Forests modify the heat and cold of 
the seasons, temper or resist destructive winds, and in- 
fluence rainfall. • It has been demonstrated ithatfamr- 
ing districts are more productive where a fair propor- 
tion of forest growth is maintained, than where the 
entire region, however rich the soil, is kept under cul- 
tivation. In some countries one-fourth of the terri- 
tory is kept in woodlands. 'The rule of the Duke of 
Burgundy was, ' One-third, to th& hunter, two-thirds 
to the husbandman.' William Penn made a law that 
one-fifth of the land should be retained in forest 
growth ; and this at a period when the forest was 
deemed the greatest obstacle to colonial prosperit}-. 

The Adirondack forests exercise well-known sani- 
tary powers whose benefits cannot be estimated in 
dollars and cents. Their abundant growth of balsams 
and other evergreens impregnate the air with the 
healing odors so effective in curing pulmonary dis- 
eases. Of the many consumptives who go there, 
over one-half are cured, or obtain permanent relief. 
Besides the sick, thousands find there a refuge from 



THE ADIRONDACKS. IJiiS 

the summer heat of the cities, and thousands of tired 
and weary ones find in that retreat the quiet so 
necessary to their health and recuperation. 

Forest destruction is due to various agencies 
besides the reckless use of the axe and indiscriminate 
timber cutting, The worst of these are the sweeping, 
uncontrollable fires which, in years past, have com- 
pletely destroyed large areas of timber lands, leaving 
in their places a dreary, desolate waste. These fires 
start in many ways ; but principally from the work of 
farmers in clearing land, from railroad locomotives, 
and from the abandoned camp fires of hunters or 
travelers. The Forest Commission has taken effec- 
tive measures to prevent this evil; and during the 
past year, while forest fires were frequent in border- 
ing States, there were none in the Adirondack or 
Catskill region. Another source of wide-spread 
damage are the dams which, when built upon our 
forest streams, cause an overflow of water that soon 
kills the timber and converts beautiful forests into 
vast pestilential swamps filled with decaying vegeta- 
tion and the bare, unsightly trtmks of dead trees. 
The Adirondack Forests have suffered severely, also, 
through a blight which in recent years has killed the 
spruce trees in immense numbers. This extensive 
decay of the spruce has been attributed to various 
causes, but Prof. Lintner, our State Entomologist, 
and Prof. Peck, our State Botanist, agree that it is 
due to the work of a certain insect. Considerable 
damage also is inflicted on woodlands by cattle which 
are allowed to roam at large and eat the young seed- 
lings upon which the future growth of the woods must 
depend. 

Forestry is the science which treats of the care, 
maintenance and management of forests. It teaches 
that their permanence is of more importance than any 
immediate profit which they may yield, and recog- 



226 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

nizes only such methods as will ensure a perpetual 
timber supply. Further, it demands such manage- 
ment as will ensure on a given area the greatest crop 
of timber at the least expense. It involves the proper 
selection of trees for this purpose, and the best sys- 
tem of cutting and removing them ; the planting of 
suitable species, in proper time and place, in order to 
preserve the areas of existing woodlands and replace 
the timber which may be removed ; the judicious and 
skillful thinning of young trees in order to admit 
light and promote the growth of the better ones ; and, 
also, the establishment of new forests in treeless 
countries. It does not forbid the cutting of trees ; 
for the matured ones may be removed with beneficial 
results, and the timber harvested as well as other 
crops. But it holds that no trees shall be removed 
until proper measures have been taken for the growth 
of others to take their place, a fundamental principle 
being that, in an established forest, the rate of cut- 
ting shall not exceed the rate of growth. Forestry 
means far more than the mere removal of ripe trees. 
For instance, it does not permit the cutting of tim- 
ber on steep hillsides, where the removal of even a 
small part of the trees might result in a shifting of 
the soil ; nor such cutting as might injure the remain- 
ing forest by too great an admission of wind or sun- 
light. It provides, through an intelligent selection, for 
the removal of undesirable species, and fosters the 
retention of profitable ones ; and it determines the 
proper admixture of hard and soft woods, so neces- 
sary in obtaining the most productive growth from 
the conifers. Nature will always reforest denuded 
tracts in time, if they are not too badly burned ; but 
the trained forester can assist and guide the work of 
Nature the same as in other agricultural work. 
Through his botanical knowledge, he selects for plant- 
ing the species.which will thrive best and yield the 



THE ADIRONDACK^.; 227 

greatest profit under existing conditions, and attends 
to the many details upon which their successful propa- 
gation depends. These details, which are necessary 
to success, are termed by some the technical work. 

Forestry has accomplished great and beneficial re- 
sults. It has reforested desolate tracts where Nature, 
unaided, had failed to restore the tree growth. It 
has converted large areas of waste land unfit for agri- 
culture, into timber bearing tracts which have added 
to the wealth of the community. It has increased the 
the f ertilit}' of our treeless States by the establishment 
of woodland tracts and belts of sheltering trees. In 
maritime districts it has covered wide wastes of sands 
with productive woods, and, by tree-planting along 
the shifting sands of the coast, it has, in many places, 
saved the land from the encroachment of the sea. 

In the old and well established forestry bureaus of 
European governments the forests are so managed 
that they }-ield large revenues over and above the 
cost of maintenance, without any diminution of their 
area or density. In our country, owing to the lower 
markets and higher wage'«^ind the need of immediate 
profits, scientific methods or management are, as yet, 
but little practiced, however well they may be under- 
stood. In some European countries there are 
Forestry schools, in which a liberal education is sup- 
plemented by practical instruction in forestr\^ and in 
the technicalities of forest management. There are 
colleges in our own country where this subject now 
receives special attention ; and it has been suggested 
that ere long our State should establish a Forestry 
Academy in the Adirondacks, where there are so 
many favorable opportunities for carrying on the 
practical work necessary to a proper course of in- 
struction." 

WILLIAM F FOX, 



I 



CHAPTER XII. 

Trout Fishing, Flies, Suggestions, Etc. 

By A. Nelson Cheney. 

N New York State there are but two species of trout 
native to its waters, the common brook or speckled 
trout, Salvelmus foiitinalis, and the lake trout mis- 
called salmon trout, Salvelimts naniaycush. Other 
trout have been generously introduced, into very many 
of the lakes, ponds and streams of the State, notably 
the brown trout, Salnio farw, which is the common 
brook trout of Eu-^ope, and which our National Fish 
Commission has decreed shall be known as the ' ' von 
Behr trout," because the iish were first sent to this 
country by the late Dr. von Behr, President of the 
German Fishery Association ; the Loch Leven trout 
from the lake of the same name in Scotland, and the 
rainbow trout from the Pacific slope. All of these 
fish have been planted in Adirondack waters, the na- 
tive trout to restock the waters and the other species 
to add to the variety. It is quite out of the question 
in the limits of this chapter to give any hard and fast 
rules or directions for successful fishing, and what fol- 
lows may be regarded as suggestions only. At the 
present time trout fishing in the Adirondacks is con- 
fined to the two native species, the lake trout of the 
large, deep, cold lakes, and the brook trout of the 
streams and ponds, for they are brook trout, as we 
have learned to call them, whether caught in moun- 
tain brook, river, pond or lake, but I shall write of 
them as found in the streams. 

When the ice has gone from the streams and ponds, 
and the sun has warmed the waters a trifle, brook 
trout will be found in the deep water and holes of the 




A. N. CHENEY. 

Skate Fish Culturist. 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 229 

brooks, and it is hard work to get them to rise to a fly. 
They probably know that flies are out of season at 
this time. If the fishing fever is on, you must take a 
plebian worm and let it lie on the bottom until it is 
Slicked in by some lazy trout; then "yank." A 
little later, when the snow wa^er is a thing of the 
past, and the fruit trees are in bloom, and the black 
fly and the May fly are out to devour and be devoured, 
and the lazy trout, by exercise on the riffs and in 
rough water, has become an athlete, then take your 
rod, attach the patrician fly, and cast ever so gently 
at the head of the riffs, where a stone makes a little 
eddy, working down gradually to the pool at the foot 
of the rapids, where the heads of the family " re- 
ceive," if they have not already anticipated your 
visit by going up the riffs like a quarter-horse, and 
taken your fly with a leap that shows you what you 
have to contend with. As the weather grows warmer 
they will drop back to the deep shady holes, invigora- 
ted and fattened by their visit to the graveled-bottom 
rapids. It may be that you will now be obliged to re- 
turn to the worm or to a live chub or shiner, or the 
tail of either, that when it is let down into the hole 
with the current and drawn up stream, it will whirl 
like a thing of life. I say you may be obliged to re- 
sort to this, for there are holes in streams where it 
would be folly to attempt to cast a fly. If a person 
wishes to pass them by because he never fishes with 
other than a fly, some one not so fastidious may come 
after and bring to basket some of the oldest inhabi- 
tants of the brook. Should you fish one day and find 
that the trout are all seeking the seclusion of the 
deep holes and the evening, night or next day brings 
a shower to slightly raise the brook, as soon as the 
shower is over try it again, but fish the rapids, for the 
trout wnll have come out to see what the flood has 
brought for them to feast upon. A little later the 



230 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

deep holes get warm by reason of low water and con- 
tinued hot weather. The trout have their resorts at 
this season as well as the angler, and so thev take 
their families and travel to some portion of the stream 
where a cold spring comes in, or bubbles up from the 
bottom. At these "spring holes" the trout will be 
found in hot weather in great numbers, if the game 
law has been observed. 

As to flies, most people have their own ideas ; but 
it may be well to sa}^ that out of the countless num- 
ber of flies, some of them unlike anything under the 
sun, the red, black, brown and gray hackles, tied 
both as a plain hackle and palmer fashion ; coach- 
man, yellow professor, . light and dark fox, black 
gnat, green drake, March brown, fin fly,'white miller, 
Montreal, Parmachene Belle, grizzly king, and 
queen of the water, constitute a good supply if one 
takes a half dozen of each. Even this is considered 
by some too many. I think I am safe in saying that 
the largest trout are caught at dusk or during star- 
light or moonlight nights ; if I am too broad in 
making this assertion I will modify it by saying /arge 
trout may be caught at this time by using a white 
mnller, or a fly in which white predominates ; and, 
too, you must use a larger hook than the one you used 
during the day. If you have noticed a large trout in 
the stream during the day, and been unable to catch 
him, try him at night, if it is bright, and you may be 
reasonably sure of his rising to your light colored' fly. 
Sometimes you may catch an obstinate fellow b}- go- 
ing above his resting place and slightly roiling the 
stream, and as the muddy water passes over, let your 
fly float as naturally as possible with it, and the 
chances are in favor of your getting the trout. He 
probably knows that roily water means a freshet, and 



THE ADIRONDACKS 23I 

a freshet biings with it insects upon wnich he feeds. 
The latter portion of May, the months of June and 
July are considered the best portions of the open sea- 
son for fishing in the Adirondacks, and morning and 
evening the best portion of the day, as the trout are 
then seeking their natural food.; but the ways of the 
trout are often past finding out, for there are times 
when the}" will bite at nothing. 

I might give directions for fly casting, but at best 
written directions are very tmsatisfactory, and the 
novice will gain more of real benefit from a few les- 
sons given b}^ a fly fisherman than from all the in- 
structions ever written. 

The coachman for trout is as standard as the Jock 
Scott or silver doctor for salmon, and for many 3'ears 
stood first in my estimation as a trout fly. A half 
dozen or more years ago Mr. R. B. Marston, editor of 
the Fishing Gazette, London, sent me some samples 
of the Marston' s Fancy, a fly that was named for 
him, and I found it to be more killing than the coach- 
man in small streams where the trout are highh^ edu- 
cated in entomolog}', and my fl}" books are now never 
without a supply of these flies. ' As to tackle get a 
split bamboo, hornbeam, or ash and lance wood rod 
of three joints, about eleven feet long, weighing 
eight to ten ounces. This with an extra tip or tips, 
one a little shorter than the others, will answer for 
both bait and fly, unless you propose to " yank " your 
fish, in which case 3'ou need heavier timber ; a click 
reel to hold forty yards of braided silk, tapered line, 
waterproof ; a half-dozen leaders or casting lines nine 
feet long, of best round silkworm gut ; a supply of 
snelled hooks tied upon O'Shaughnessey or Kinsey 
hooks, with a landing net of coarse mesh, will consti- 
tute an outfit for brook trout in the Adirondacks. It 
is poor economy to buy poor tackle ; if you get any get 
the best, even if you get less. 



232 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

While I advise O'Shaughnessey or Kinsey snelled 
hooks for bait fishing, I beUeve the best hook on which 
to dress a fly is the Pennell-Limerick or Pennell- 
Sneck, hook made by "W. Bartleet & Sons, the former 
for large flies and the latter for small ones. 

Bait fishing is not to be sneered at. But if you 
must use bait, take your angle or earth worm after it 
is scoured in damp moss, and pass 3'our hook through 
the neck half an inch from the head, then gathering 
up a loop of the body and pass through again and again 
until you have the shank, as well as the beard of the 
hook, well covered and half an inch of "worm " over. 
Should your worm-loop, or head, or tail be taken off 
and the fish not taken in, put on a fresh bait. Unless 
you have some decided objection fish down stream. If 
5'ou use live bait (minnows), pass your hook through 
its back under the dorsal fin, but not so low as to 
break the back bone ; should you use a portion of a 
minnow, cut ofl! the tail just at the dorsal fin ; put 
3-our hook in at the tail, and along the back bone, 
until the point of the hook nearly reaches the place 
cut ; your bait will then be cur\'ed to correspond with 
the bend of the hook, and ^^'ill whirl nicely when 
drawn against the current. 

The Lake trout, although it will take a fl}" at 
times, is usually caught b}- trolling". The modus 
operandi is as follows : With a springy trolling rod, a 
balance inultiplying reel to hold 100 yards of braided 
silk, or linen line No. 4, leaders 6 feet long of single 
gut, and a minnow gang, which is made by tying 6, 9 
or 12 hooks in groups of three to a length of twisted 
gut with a single lip hook about one and a half inches 
above the upper group of hooks, a gaff hook, and a 
pail of minnows completing the outfit. Lake trout fish- 
ing is in order as soon as the ice leaves the lakes, for 
then the fish are at the surface of the water and it is 
really the only time that they afford sport in the 



THE AMRONDACKS. 233 

catching, as it cannot be considered sport to troll with 
a heavy sinker at the bottom in loo or more feet of 
water, so put your rod together, put on your reel, pass 
your line through the standing guides of your rod, 
attach 3^our leader and minnow gang, put the lip hook 
through both lips of the live bait, bend the bait and 
put one of the group hooks through the back of the 
bait behind the back fin in such a manner as to make 
it revolve when drav^m slowly through the water. Of 
late 3-ears I have used the Archer Spinner in place of 
the gang, for when the minnow is impaled on the 
spindle of the spinner it must whirl, and the wings of 
the spinner hold the minnow fast and thus it is a bait 
saver, an important matter in spring trolling when 
bait fish are scarce. 

Buoy fisMng for lake trout is practiced by anchor- 
ing a block of wood, as a buoy in some deep portion 
of the lake. Morning and evening, for two or three 
days, bait your buoy by throwing overboard bits of 
fish cut up about the size of a butternut; this will gen- 
erally attract the fish and keep them around the buoy. 
When you think the buoy sufficiently baited, put on 
your hook a piece of fish like that you have used, or a 
live minnow, and drop it over, and keep your bait 
moving up and down by a slight motion of your hand, 
until the sun gets too hot, or your seat gets too hard, or 
you make up your mind that there are better ways of 
fishing. Buoy fishing is not practiced now nearly as 
much as in former years, but trout are yet caught in 
this manner. I have of necessity omitted much that 
might be said,but will say in conclusion, let the "sign" 
be in the head or in the feet, the next time you try 
them, may your baskets be filled with fair-sized 
trout, but leave the little ones in the water to grow. 



234 THE ADIRONDACKS, 

"Wtiere tliey may be found. In 1882 Mr. Fred 
Mather, the well-known fish culturist, explored a 
great portion of what is known as Adirondack waters 
for the purpose of making an ichthyological report to 
accompany the report of the Adirondack survey, in part 
relating to the distribution of the fishes known to the 
anglers as the " game fishes," such as are captured by 
rod and line. Mr. Mather supplemented his summer's 
work of personal exploration and examination by re- 
ports from guides and others regarding waters that 
he had not the time to visit. So that his report, so 
far as it goes, is reasonably correct and trustworthy. 
The names of lakes, ponds and streams given in 
the report, are those found on the Stoddard map of the 
Adirondack wilderness. 

Brook trout are not found in the following 
waters : ]\Ietcalf, and T Lakes, tributaries of west 
Canada Creek ; Spectacle, Dexter, Spy, Oxbow, Coal, 
Scuts, Willis, Murphy, Warner, Remson and Bug 
Lakes. All others are supposed to contain them. 
Lake trout, commonly called salmon trout are not 
found in the following waters ; None of the lakes of 
West Canada Creek except Spruce ; Indian, Ferris, 
Christian, Morehouse, Jersevfield, Goodluck, OxBoav, 
Metcalf, Sheritf, Canada, Coal, AVillis, Nicks, Little 
Woodhull, Stone Dam, AVilmurt and the Eagle Chain 
of Lakes. By implication the other lakes in the Adi- 
rondacks do contain lake trout. 

Black bass are found in Raquette, Forked, 
White, Fourth, Bisby, Sucker, the Blue Mountain 
Chain and the Fulton Chain of Lakes, Moose and 
Black rivers. Tbe RainbO"W (California) trout have 
been placed in FultonChain, Bisby, AVoodhull, Pleasant, 
Round Horn, and Jones Lakes, Moose, Oswegatchie 
and Black Rivers, and Silver Lake. Liand-locked 
salmon have been planted in Woodhull, Mud, Sand, 
Little ]\Ioose and the Fulton Chain of Lakes. 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 235 

You may kill Ruffled Grouse and Woodcock, 
August 1 6th to January ist. 

Wildfowl, September ist to may ist. 

Squirrels, black and gray, Sept. ist to Dec. ist. 

Hares and Rabbits, Rabbits in St. Lawrence, 
Franklin, Essex. Clinton, Lewis, Warren, Hamilton, 
Herkimer, Saratoga, Washington, September 30th to 
March ist following. 

Wilson s or E?iglish Snipe, September ist to Janu- 
ary ist. 

Deer, August i6th to October 31st, but no person 
shall kill or take alive more than two deer in one sea- 
son. May be hunted with dogs from loth September 
to loth October, both inclusive. Dogs not allowed in 
St. Lawrence County at any time. No fawns shall 
be killed at any time. Not more than one deer shall 
be transported, and then only when accompanied by 
owner. The violation of any of these provisions is a 
misdemeanor, with an additional penalty of $100 for 
each violation. 

All Trout, except Lake Trout, April 15th to Sep- 
tember ist. 

Lake Trout and La?id-locked Salmon, May ist to 
October ist. Legal length of all trout and land- 
locked salmon, six inches. 

Fishing, through the ice in waters inhabited by 
trout. Lake trout or Land-locked Salmon is forbidden. 

Black Bass, May 30th to January ist, except in 
Lake George, August ist to January ist. Legal 
length of black bass eight inches. 

Muscalo7ige, May 30th to jVIarch ist. 

Salmon, which means the Sea Salmon, March 1st to 
August 15th. Cannot be netted and the legal length 
is 18 inches. 



235-B THE ADIRU.NDACKS. 

The Adirondack Guides' Association was 

organized June 27, iSgr. Its declared object is to 
promote and facilitate travel in the Adirondacks ; to 
secure to the public competent and trustworthy 
guides; to aid in the enforcement of the forest, and 
garne, laws of the state; to secure wise and practical 
legislation on all subjects affecting the interests of 
the Adirondack region ; to maintain a uniform rate 
of guides' wages and to render financial assistance to 
its members in case of sickness or other disability, C)r- 
to their families in case of the death of such member. 
The uniform rate of wages for guides belonging to the 
Association is fixed at $3.00 per day and their neces- 
sary expenses. 

Officers of the Association are: President, Oatman 
A. Colviii, Saranac Lake ; Vice-Presidents, Peter A. 
Soloman, Saranac Lake; Ernest H. Johnson, Tupper 
Lake; Thomas Redwood, Paul Smith's; Miles Ken- 
wood, Saranac Inn ; Secretary, John H. Miller, Sara- 
nac Lake ; Treasurer, Warren J. Slater, Saranac Lake. 
Verplanck Colvin, of Albany, is Honorary President. 

Members of the Association with P. O. address 
as follows: 

Adirondack (Warren Co.)— Patrick Sheehy, Jr. 

Axton— William Dukett, Harry Freeman. 

Blue Mountain Lake— E. J. F. Danmark, Wes- 
ley Bates, Melvin S. Burnham, P. D. Smith, William 
Tabor. George Fuller, Seth Pierce, Michael McGuire, 
Duane Fuller, F. J. Bird, A. M. Hammond, Norris P. 
Hale, William Kelley. R. L. Merwin, Michael Flora, 
Schuyler Kathan, A. Linn Kathan. 

Elizabethtown— Martin B. Davis, Morton H. 
Davis, 

Fulton Cnain— P. O., Old Forge. A. M. Church, 
H D. Grant, D. L. Sperry. Merrill M. White, John 
Cummerford, John E. Ball. Richard Crego, R. W. 
Roberts, David Charbonneau, Garey Riggs, Peter 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 235-C 

Rivet, Fred Kirche, Eugene L Scafford, Ben Par- 
sons, Oscar Wood, Milo Bull, Arch Delmarsh, Henry- 
Hart, Ira H. Parsons, Frank Williams, H. L. Spin- 
ning, William H. Burke. 

Lake Placid — Miles Kennedy, Marshall Lamoy, 
James Stanton, George Alford. 

Long Lake — Isaac Sebattis, John E. Plumley, 
Jerry D. Plumley, Oren B. LaPelle, William H. Gillis, 
Charles C. Robinson, Willard Sutton, John Ricketson, 
Gilbert Stanton, Otis Betts, Lyman Russell, Alba 
Cole, John Robinson, Cyrus Palmer, William Robin- 
son, David Mix, Edwin Stanton, Robert Hartson, 
David Helms, W. W. Cole. William Mix, B. C. Rob 
inson, John Kellar, Handy Plumley, Jos. Welch, 
Clayton Cole, John LaPelle, George'Palmer, Leslie 
Palmer, Isaac Robinson, Charles Cole. W^allace Em- 
erson, S. B. Austin, Riley Plumley, David Hough. 

Meacliani Lake (P. O., Duane)— James Bean, 
George Selkirk, Lucien Trim, Charles ]\I. Haskins, R. 
H. Maynard, Halsey R. Sprague, Bert Burr, Daniel 
M. Selkirk. Robert A. Ladd, Fred A. Van W^ert, An- 
drew Selkirk, E. P. Perkins, William J. Martin. Mat- 
thew Johnson, Richard Woodruff, Lyman Debar, 
William H. Sprague, Andrew Rogers. 

Moody — Ernest Johnson, Daniel Hinkson, Fred 
W. Moody, George Pillerin, Charles Lester, James 
McBride, George Huntington, J. S. Johnson. 

Paul Smitli's — Ross Hayes. JSIoses Sawyer, John 
Redwood, Jacob Hayes, Alfred Otis, Ezra Bruce, 
Eugene Flanders, Fred Rork, Thomas Redwood, Orin 
Otis, James Carney, Elbridge Ricketson, Patsy O'- 
Neill, Douglas Martin, John McLaughlin, Thomas N. 
Clark, Lovel Newell, Alva Bennett, Will Cross, Ed- 
ward Rorke, E. C. Corbin, Wort Tyler, John Witcher, 
Ed Dustin, Myron J. Otis. 

Raqaette Lake — Seth M. Pierce, Andrew Sym- 
mes, John A. Jones, E. C. Pierce, Arthur Sheldon, 



235-D THE ADIRONDACKS. 

W. T. Cornell, George S. Jenkins, " Cal." LaParairie, 
Henry Taylor, Freeland Jones, Cal Martin. 

Saranac Inn — Peter O'Malley, Justin Ferring, 
ton, William Manning, Bert Cronk, Wesley Wood- 
Charles McCaffrey, George Otis, Earl Derby, Duck 
Derby, Charles Austin, El verdo Patterson, Fred. Pat- 
terson. 

Saranac Lake — Hiram Benham, J. H. Miller, 
E. E. Sumner, Thomas Healey, Rant Manning, Eu- 
gene Allen, Lowell Brown, George Fayzette, Warren 
J. Slater, Frank Davis, John Foster, Joseph Lamoy, 
George Mussen, Charley Martin, Hiram Moody, O. A, 
Covin, George E. Johnson, Robert S. Moody, Perley 
J. Graves, Den Hennessey, Peter Solomon, Ed. Cagle, 
William Stearns, John Turner, Walter Jenkins, Mil- 
lard Hayes, Herbert Hazelton, A. W. Dudley, Theo- 
dore Melvin, Henry Davis, Robert King, Elmer 
Dockum, Howard Slater, Cleveland Moody, Arlo C. 
Flagg, Silas Flagg, Orion Savage, Warren Bryant, 
Frank Vosburgh, Charles Hayes, Marshal Brown, 
Mace Brown, Alric B. Moody, Fayette Moody, Daniel 
Bartlett. Charles O. Bartlett. 

Scliroon Lake — Benjamin F. Wickham. 

Tupper Lake — John H. Perry, William E. La- 
Fountain. 



THE ADIROXDACKS. 236 

FROM NEW YORK: 

From Grand Central Station vui. N. Y. C. & 
H. R., to Utica, thence to Gateways 8 and o, run- 
ning through without change to Fulton Chain, 
Childwold, the Saranac Lakes, Paul Smith's, 
LiOon Lake and beyond. Special fast express trains 
morning and evening from Grand Central Station, 
with Wagner buffet, drawing-room and sleeping cars 
through to all these points. For rates of fare see 
page 272-B. 

From Grand Central Station via. New York 
Central & Hudson River Railroad to Troy, Delaware 
& Hudson Railroad to Saratoga and the north by 
Gateways 7, 3, 2 and i. See map, page 211. Special 
fast trains leave Grand Central Station for Saratoga 
and Lake George during the season, morning and 
afternoon; one leaving at 3.30 p. m. reaches Saratoga 
at 6.40, and Saturday night runs through to Lake 
George, returning Sunday night to connect with 
sleeper south ; a train leaving at 7.00 p. m. with through 
Wagner buffet sleeping cars attached, connects early 
in the morning at Westport with stages for Eliz- 
abethtown and Keene Valley, at Port Kent for 
AuSable Chasm, and at Plattsburgh with trains 
for Saranac Lake and Lake Placid. For time 
tables or any desired information regarding either of 
the above routes address George H. Daniels, G. P. A., 
Grand Central Station, New York. See page 272. 

From Desbrosses St. Pier, North River, by 
Day Boats. "Albany" and "New York," daily at 
8.40 A. M., arriving at Albany about 6 p. m., thence 
as above to Gateways. During the season, fast trains 
run to and from Saratoga to connect with these boats, 
and on Saturday night run through to Lake George. 
Fare, $2. For particulars address F. B. Hibbard, G. 
P. A., Desbrosses Street Pier, New York. 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 

From Pier 41, North River (Foot of Canal 
St.), Peoples' Line Steamers "Drew" and "Dean 
Richmond," ever}^ week day at 6 p. m. for Albany, 

thence to Gateways as above. Fare $1.50. Meals 
are served on the European plan. M. B. Waters, 
G. P. A., Albany, N. Y. See page 273. 

From Foot Cliristoplier St., North River, by 
Citizens' Line Steamers "Saratoga" and "City of 
Tro3%" every evening, except Saturday, at 6 p. m., 
for Troy, thence to Gateways as above. Fare $1. 50. 
Meals on European plan. For staterooms, or par- 
ticulars address Geo. W. Gibson, G.P.A., Troy, N.Y. 
FROM WASHINGTON. 

By Pennsylvania Railroad to Pluladelpliia and 
Jersey City, West Shore Railroad to Albany, 
thence to Gateways as above. During the season of 
summer travel through cars run from Washington to 
Saratoga. 
FROM BINGHAMTON. 

By Albany & Susquehanna Railroad to Albany, 
thence via N. Y. C. to Western Gateways or by the 
D. & H. to Saratoga and east side resorts. The 
Delaware & Hudson Railroad reaches the south 
and east side resorts. During the season of pleasure 
travel extra fast trains are run from Albany and Troy to 
Saratoga, Lake George, Plattsburgh and Montreal, 
with through AVagner buffet, sleepmg and drawing 
room cars attached. Nortbern connections are 
made at ]Mechanicville with the Fitcbburgb Rail- 
road for points east and west ; at Saratog'a with 
Adirondack railroad for Luzerne, Schroon Lake and 
Blue Mountain Lake (see Gateway No. 7) ; at Cald- 
■well with steamers on Lake George ; at Wbiteball 
with trains for Rutland and the er»-st ; at Ticon- 
deroga with branch road to foot of Lake George ; 
at Cro"WTi Point with C. P. L Co.'s railway (Gate- 
way No. 4) ; at Westport with stages for Elizabeth- 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 

town and Keene Valley (Gateway No. 3) ; at Port 
Kent with traina for Au Sable Chasm and Keese- 
ville (Gateway No. 2) ; at Plattsbur^ll with Au 
Sable Branch and Chateaugay railroads (Gateway 
No. i) for the Chateaugay, Saranac and St. Regis 
Lakes and Lake Placid, and at Rouses Point with 
Central Vermont Railroad for the east, and the O. & 
L. C. road to points west. For particulars relating to 
the running of trains, address J. W. Burdick, G.P.A., 
Albany, N. Y. See page 271. 
FROM BOSTON. 

By Fitchburgh Railroad to Meclianieville and 
western Gateways, or to Saratoga and the north, 

By Fitchburg and Central Vermont Railroads to 
Burlin^on and by Cbamplain Steamers to 
gateways i, 2, 3 and 4. 

For particulars relating to the Ctiamplain 
Steamers see page 275 ; Chateaugay Railroad 
see page 270. Central Vermnt R. R. see. page 273. 
FROM THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 

To Burlington and gateways as above, or by 
Portland & Ogdensburgh R. R. to Rouses' Point, 
and by O. & L. C. R. R. to Malone, thence by A* 
& St. L. road to central points. 
FROM MONTREAL. 

Via Grand Trunk R. R. to Rouses' Point by D. & 
H. to East Side Gatewa^^s. 

Via. Grand Trunk and St. L. & A. to Malone via. 
Coteau, thence to central resorts via. the A. & St. L. 
FROM THE THOUSAND ISLANDS. 

St. Lawrence River steamers to Ogdensburgb., 
thence by O. & L. C. east to Malone for A. & St. L. 
road, or to Bouses' Point for east side gateways. 
FROM NIAGARA FALLS. 

Via. N. Y. C. & H. R. R. R. to Herkimer, thence 
via. A. & St. L. ; or to Schenectady and by D. & 
H. to Saratoga and east side gateways. 



APPENDIX. 

It is intended that in the following pages will be 
given, in compact form, a list of all ttie hotels and 
boarding-houses of the Adirondacks with 
capacity, price for board by day and week, time 
of opening and closing, name of proprietor 
and post-office address, with other particulars of 
interest to the public. To this end all hotel keep- 
ers and those ^vishing to keep boarders are requested 
to send annually before May i, information as above, 
with particulars as to transportation, (stating price and 
kind of conveyance if not already given in these 
pages) and the substance of such information wnll be 
published free in the current number of the book. 

This Book is revised and published annually, and, 
as it is impossible for the writer to visit every portion 
of the Wilderness befoie publication, every year, it 
will be considered a favor if anyone noting errors or 
omissions of importance will call ^-^tention to the fact 
either in person or by letter. 



INDEX TO ADVERTISEMENTS. 

Hotels Alphabetically Arranged. 



Adirondack House 261 

Adirondack Lodge 260 

Algonquin, The 252 

Antlers. The 267 

Bald Mountain House 256 

Berkeley, The 254 

Blue Mountain House 2fi7 

Blue Mountain L. Ho . . 266 
Brightside-on-Raq.uette.. 266 

Burleigh, Hotel 246 

Cascade Lake, House ... 259 

Champlain, Hotel 249 

Childwold, Hotel 255 

Crystal Spring House 252 

DelMonte, Hotel 251 

Cranberry Lake House.. 262 

Fenton House 256 

Grand View House 258 

Grove House 269 

Grove Point House 263 

Hemlocks, The 262 

Hotel Douglas 247 

Hotel Kenmore 244 

Hotel Wawbeck 255 

Hundred Island House... 245 
Indian Point House 2.50 



Lake View House 24S 

Marion House 245 

Merrill House 250 

Moose River House 256 

Mountain View House... 259 

North River Hotel 266 

Ondawa, The 263 

Pond View House 256 

Pottersville Hotel 265 

Pyramid Lake House..,. 263 

Rainbow Inn 251 

Ralph's 250 

Ray Brook House 259 

Redside Camp 2.59 

Ruisseaumont 258 

Sagamore, New 268 

Saranac Inn 254 

St. Hubert's Inn .274 

Sunset Camp 262 

Taylor House 264 

Tromblee's 253 

Undercliff 258 

Watch Rock Hotel. 265 

Wayside Inn 261 

Westport Inn 247 

Whiteface Inn 258 



Island House 269 

Railroads.— Chateaugay, 270; Central Vermont, 272-c; 
Chicago, Milwaukee & St. Paul, 273; Delaware & Hudson, 271; 
Michigan Central, 273; N. Y. C & H. R., 272, 272-8; Saranac & 
Lake Placid, 272-c. 

Stagre Lines.— Adirondack, 257; Leavitt, 2,57. 

Steamboats —Blue Mountain Lake Steamers, 276; Lake 
Champlain, 275; Lake George, 275; People's Evening Line, 279; 

Books, etc.— Standard Dictionary, 279: "Forest and 
Stream," 278; " Gameland,"" 279: Guide Books and Maps, 239; 
Illustrated Lectures, 24Q, " News " series, 277; Red Guide, 265. 

Fancy Goods.— Peyser & Brother, 263. 

Livery.— Fowler's. Saranac Lake. 250. 

Map of Adirondack Wilderness, 239. 

Photographic- "Kodak,"' 280. 

Real Estate.— Long Lake, 269; Lake Placid, 259. 

Shirts and Collars. -242-r. 

Bicycles— The American Humber, 242. 

Gripsack Umbrella.— 273 



GUIDE BOOKS AND MAPS 

PUBLISHED BY S. R. STODDARD, GLENS FALLS, N. Y. 

GUIDE BOOKS 

THE ADIRONDACKS ILLUSTRATED.— "Diamond" 

edition. 296 pages. Paper cover, 25 cents. Cloth, 50 
cents. 

ALBANY Evening Journal.— " Routes, fares to different 
points, time-tables, maps, guides, and whatever else tlie trav- 
eler is most concerned in knowing, are treated clearly and 
intelligently." 

New York Times. — " A book that may be read through 
from beginning to end at any time, and be found full of in- 
teresting reading matter." 

Troy Times.— "A delightful book, well spiced with anecdote 
and adventure." 

SARATOGA, LAKE GEORGE AND LAKE CHAM- 
PLAIN, historical and descriptive, 16 mo., 200 pages. 
Paper cover, 25 cents. Contains colored map three feet 
long, outline cuts of mountains, islands, etc. , as seen from 
the passing steamer. 

MAPS 

THE ADIRONDACK WILDERNESS.— Pocket edition 
on map-bond paper, in cloth cover, $1 .00. Linen bacKed, 
$1.50. 

Forest and Stream.— " It is the most complete map of 
the Adirondack region ever published, and is just what is 
wanted by a party intending to camp out." 

Shooting and Fishing.—" State officers consult it and 
the Fish Commissioners depend upon it for use of the State 
Game Protectors." 

LAKE GEORGE.— Scale 1 mile to an inch. Pocket 
edition on map-bond paper, cloth cover. 50 cents. 
Approved and adopted by the State Engineer and Sur- 
veyor in 1880. 

LAKE CHAMPLAIN.— Scale 2i miles to an Inch, 
with smaller maps of the Richelieu River, and routes 
and distances to important points. Pocket edition on 
map-bond paper, cloth cover, 50 cents. 

SENT POSTPAID ON RECEIPT OF PRICE. 



5. R. STODDARD'S 

ILLUSTRATED LECTURES, 

Under the Management of flajOr J. B. POHCl, Everett House, New York. 

SUBJECTS: 

" Pictured Adirondacks," 

Its deep rivcrJ auj wimling striiama ; lU broad lakes and clustered nonds', ita dark gorges ; ita wild gleijs ; ita 
high uiountains and ita Kvely valleys ;.its gateways, roads and wildwood trails ; its noted hunters and 
its famous gulden J its celebrated hotels and summer camps; how they live in the woods ; 
huntine and fishing ; cnuip fires and camping scenes ; pictures, by sun-light and flash- 
light, in Si«Umer.and Winter, by night and by day ; its East ; ita West ; ita 
North ; its South. 

The Hudspn River, 

**From the MountaiiiiS to lltci'ea.'* An illustrated poem, tracing the great river from ita source in the tiiountain> 

UiUil it reaches the opeu country , thence onward until it looses itself in the ocean. On this thread 14 

atfyng pictures of wood life, and views along the historic stream, until it ends vnth the pictur* 

which M.. Bartholdi declares is the only one he ever saw worthy of the subject, 

Mr. 'Stoddard's night scene, made with magnesium fla^h light, of 

*' Liberty Enlightening the. World." 

"Across the Continent," 

lU spreading plains ; its teeming grain fields and its greut i 
'and the way they live ; itagreatr ■— ' - 



'Alaska, -the Land of Ice," 



Its queer people.their customs and their homes , its fui> : its tisheries and its gold , its land-locke<l seas ; it* 
mighty glaciers and iu frozen plains. 

" The Wonderful, White City of '93." 

Daily Times, Glens Tails. — " Every \iew is a beautiful picture, many of them reealliiig in composition Claud* 
Lorraine's and Turner's masterpieces. " Sunday News. — " They" are marvels of beauty, to say nothing 
about the interests and instruction they convey." Morning" Star. — "There are no dry or un- 
interesting \iew8 ; there are no views taken from bad points of new. Each one is a 
picture worthy of being reproduced on canvas. 

SEASON OF 1893-4. 
Mr. Stoddard's pictures are the most beautiful ever shown before aa American audience, 
and I do not believe tbey are equalled in any part oftbe world.— J. B. POSD. 

New. 

" The Yosemite," "The Grand Canyons of the Colorado," " J i 

Yellowstone Wonderland," " The Land of Christ," 

" Egypt and the Nile." 

(Illustrated Syllabus of Lectures sent on application ) 



1S6S -TO 1Q9S. 

Number Bicycles 

For 26 Years the WORLD'S STANDARD. 



HUMBER QUALITY MEANS SPEED, 




NOT CHEAP, BUT GOOD. 



HUMBER & CO., America, Limited, 

318 BROADWAY, NEW YORK. 



C. H. & L. R- STODDARD, Agents, 
36 Elm Street, Glens Falls, N. Y. 

242 



-}■ JOSEPH FOWLER ^- 

5fiirt @ (ollar (o. 




mu(^ 



Manufacturers 
of 

Negligee and 
Wkite Shirts. 

MEN'S 

Lmen Collars 
and Cuffs. 

Paper Boxes. 



FACTOHY AND LAUNDRY AT 



243 




HOTEL KENMORE. 

THE LEADING HOTEL OF 

ALB ANY. N . Y. 

STRICTLY RIRST-OI_ASS. 



Special attention given to Tourists. Centrally located. Con- 
venient to State Capitol, other public buildings 
and places of interest. 

Free Omnibusses in Attendance at all Trains and Boats. 

H. J. ROCKWELL, Proprietor. F. W. ROCKWELL, Manager. 

244 



ra MARION HOaSE, 

liflKH GEORGE, fi. Y. 

T OCATED on the west shore of the lake, about six miles 
-*— * north of Caldwell ; stands on a slight eminence, a little 
removed from the water; commands a view of the broadest 
portion of the lake. 

Elevator, Electric Lights, Gas. Electric Bells, 
New Buffet, Telegraph m the house. 
Four daily mails; sanitary conditions perfect; pure spring 
water. 

Jersey Milk, Cream and Vegetables from the Hotel Farm. 

Delightful drives. Good fishing Every facility for amusement 

Accommodations for 400 Guests. 

Bates, $3.50 per day ; $14 to $25 per week. 

Send for Illustrated Book. 

W. A. & H. L. SHERMAN, 
H. L. SHEKMAN, Manager. Proprietors. 

Address at Glens Falls until June 10; after that date, 
West Side, Warren Co. 

HUNDRED ISLAND 
HOUSE, 

Shelving Rock, 
N. Y. 







HFMtY E.NICHOLS, Manager. 

Rates. Wz to $17.50 per week; $2.50 to $3 
per day. Special rates to families for 
the season. 
245 



Hotel Burleigh, 



Ticonderoga, 
N Y. 



W. F. WOOD, Proprietor. 

THIS NEW AND ELEGANT HOTEL is pleasantly lo- 
cated midway between Lake Champlain and 
Lake George. 

The building is of brick. 80x40, 4 stories above the base- 
ment: Mansard roof: 100 commodious rooms, newly fur- 
nished and supplied with an abundance of Lake George 
water, heated by steam, lighted by electric light, hot 
and cold water baths: complete fire protection on each floor. 
All the appointments are first-class BURLEIGH HOUSE 
is within three hours ride of Schroon Lake.^ Stage daily. 
Shortest and most direct way to the Adirondacks. 

Attractions include many points of historic interest with- 
in short range of this hotel, among which are the extensive 
fortifications of FORT TICONDEROGA, built by the French 
in 1T55, and surrendered to Col. Ethan Allen, May 10th, 1775, 
who demanded it "in the name of the Great Jehovah and the 
Continental Congress."' 

Mount Hope, where heavy redoubts and fortifications 
were made upon which to erect batteries to bear upon the fort. 
Mount Defiance, which rises 7.50 feet above Lake Cham- 
plain. Gen Burgoyne ascended this mountain from the north, 
July 4, 1777, erected a battery of heavjj guns upon its summit, 
completely commanding the Fort and dislodged the Americans. 
Lake George (the " Como " of America), with its many 
delightful resorts and thousand enchanting views. 

Lord Howe's Monument, erected near where he was 
wounded by a French scout. 

Fort Frederick, built by the French, 1731, much of which 
remains in a state of good preservation. And many other 
localities of interest.^ 

First- Class Livery connected with the house. GOOD 
BOATING within a few minutes walk on either lake. Fine 
opportunity for fishing, where tons of trout and bass are an- 
nually taken. Hunting grounds between Lakes Pharaoh and 
George abound with deer and small game. Telegraph and 
Express Office in the house. 

Rates of Board: $10 to $20 per week. Transient, $2.50 
per day. 

246 



The WESTPORT INN, 

WESTPORT on Lake Champlain, iN. Y. 

Mrs. 0. 0. DANI ELL, Manager. Mrs. HENRY 0. LYON , Asst. 

A thoroughly well appointed house, with good table, moun- 
tain spring water and excellent drainage, wide piazzas, with a 
superb view of the Lake and Mountains. 

Capacity 125. Rates, $3 to U per day; U2 to 121 per week. 

Good Boating, Fishing, and fine drives. Livery Stable near 
the house. 

It is within two minutes walk of the Lake Champlain Trans- 
portation Company's wharf, two minutes from the Library 
and Post Office, and ten minutes drive from the Telegraph 
Office and Depot of the D. & H. R. R. 

Stages to and from interior points in the Adirondacks twice 
daily. 

ADDRESS, WESTPORT, N. Y. 

HOTEL DOUQL/qS, 

. . . AT • • . 

Port Douglas, LaL champlain." 

On the West Shore South of Port Kent. 

HUNTING, FISHING, SAILING. 

Free Carriage to boat and station on notice. Capacity of 
this house 60. Rates, $2 per day; $8 to 112 per week. Open 
June 15 to Oct. 1. Address for particulars, 

J. L. MOCK, Douglas, N. Y. 



T A T^ TT^ t-I/^T TGltr Crown Point, N. Y. 
L/AJtVE^ inVJUC^rl^, M. GILLIGAN. Prop. 

Rates, $2 per day ; $6 to $8 per week. Splendid boating and 
fishing, riding and driving. Free carriage to boats and trains. 

247 





Saratoga, 

Lal^Q George, 

Lal^e Cl^artiplait], 

7\diror]dacHs, 

Ausable Chasm. 

If you visit any. 

Do not miss the latter. 

DIRECT RAILROAD CONNECTIONS WITH 
D. & H. R. R. AND LAKE CHAM- 
PLAIN STEAMERS. 

STOP-OVER PRIVILEGES ALLOWED. 



Lake View House 

UNDER SAME MANAGEMENT. 

W. H. TRACY, Proprietor, 

248 



"The Hotel Ghamplain" 

(LAKE CHAMPLAIN.) 

On the line of the Delaware & Hudson R. R., 
Three fliles South of Plattsburgh, N.Y. 



THE SUPERB 

SUMMER HOTEL 

OF THE NORTH. 

The Northern Tour is not complete without 

a visit to the "CHAMPLAIN," the 

most desirable and convenient 

stopping place en-route. 

Strictly First-Class. 



O. D. SEAVEY, Manager. 

249 



"R/ILPH'S", 



UPPER 
CHATEAUCAY LAKE, 

Open June I 5th to October. 

Eates $3 per day, $12.50 to $17.50 per week. 

Special Eates for Families. 

A Ne-w OfiSce and a New Cottage for '95. 

J. W. HUTTON, Proprietor. 



CHATEAUGAY LAKE, 
ADIRONDACKS. 



Indii^n Point Hou^e, 



The Merrill House, 

Refitted and refurnished throughout. Gives a magnificent 
view of the entire lake and twenty surrounding peaks. 2000 
feet above the Sea ! The most healthful of summer resorts. 
Post Office and Telegraph Office in the house. GOOD LIVERY. 
Boats, guides and camp outfits furnished. Open Summer and 
Winter. Rates of Board : $2.50 per day ; $10 to $14 per week. 
Special rates to families for protracted stay. Open May 1st 
to November 1st. Address, 

OLIVER YOUNG, Prop. P. O., Merrill, N. Y. 

UPPER 

CHATEAUGAY 

LAKE. 

One of the Most Attractive Resorts in the Adirondacks for 
Families and Tourists. Fine Fishing and Hunting Grounds in 
the immediate vicinity. Board. $1.50 per day: $8 to $10 per week. 
Guides and Boats at Reasonable Rates. Special attention to 
Sportsmen. Correspondence solicited. 

R. M. SHUTTS. Merrill, Clinton Co.. N. Y. 

fowler's"liyery, 

In connection with all Hotels and Sanitarium Carriages 
meet parties at Depots on arrival of all trains. Orders by 
Telegraph or Telephone promptly attended to. 

W. S. FOWLER, Proprietor. 

250 



BiSi# mmi 



ADIRONDACK:©. 
J. M. "WARDNER, Prop. P. O., Rainbow, N. Y. 



THE BEST HUNTING. BOATING AND FISHING 
GROUNDS TO BE FOUND IN THE ADIRONDACKS. 
RECENT ADDITIONS AND IMPROVEMENTS. House 
new and commodious. Post Office, telegraph and telephone 
office in the house. Mails daily. Parties leaving New York 
at 7:30 P. M. arrive at Rainbow in time for breakfast the 
following day. A bountiful supply of fresh eggs, milk and 
vegetables from Rainbow Farm. Board, per day, $2..50 : per 
week, §10 to $1.5 RAINBOW LAKE ABOUNDS IN THE 
FINEST TROUT and affords the best trolling and fly fishing. 
It has been restocked with 800.000 trout the last five years. 
The largest lake trout on record was caught here— wgt. b'2 lbs. 
Boats, guides and supplies for parties camping out. Boating 
parties start within 50 ft. of the house and have uninterrupted 
sailing through numerous lakes for over 12 miles. This is 
noted feeding ground for deer. 



SARANAC LAKE, 
N. Y. 



Hotel del momte 

J. E. & W. H. MEAGHER, Managers. 

Modern appointments. Commodious, well-lighted rooms. Ex 
tensive piazzas. Game and Fish, in Season. Fresh eggs 
milk, cream and vegetables in abundance. Pleasant surround- 
ings in groves of pine, spruce, hemlock, balsam and cedar. 



F-ISMIISIG, 



BOA-rilSIG, 



lA-rmiMG. 

A well equipped liverv and moderate prices. Capacity 100 
Rates $2 to $3 per day : $12 to $20 per week. A Healtli and 
Pleasure Resort. Open Summer and Winter. 

-S-^b=- ADDRESS -^r-^- 

J. E. & W. H. MEAGHER, Managers, 



251 



The %tal Spring Hou?b 

HAS been thoroughly renovated and freshly painted and 
papered; new closets, baths, etc., have been added. It 
derives its name from a magnificent spring near by from which 
its water is supplied; is situated in the pleasant mountain vil- 
lage of Bloomingdale, 2,000 feet above the sea. A large grove 
in rear of hotel. In its vicinity are many Beautiful Lakes 
and Streams, affording Fine Hunting and Fishing, 
for which the management furnish outfits of boats, guides and 
tackle. A Good Livery will be run in connection with the 
house, which has been recently purchased by Messrs. Robeson 
& Sharland, practical hotel men, who will spare no reasonable 
expense to make your stay with them a pleasant one (Mr. 
W. A. Robeson will be remembered as having been connected 
with The Sagamore, Lake George, and Hotel Ponce de Leon, 
St. Augustine, Fla). The Crystal Spring House is ]i^ miles 
from Bloomingdale Station on Chateaugay R. R., and 414 miles 
from Paul Smith's Station, Adirondack & St. Lawrence~R. R. 

RATES : Per Day, $2.50: per Week, $10 to $17. For further 
information address 

ROBESON & SHARLAND, Bloomingdale, Essex Co., N. Y. 

EMonouia 

Snmnnc LnK, 11. T. 

Capacity 125. 

Rates per day, $3 to $4. 

Rates per week, $15 to $21. 

OPErl JUNE TO OCTOBHt^ 10. 

252 



UPPER SARANAC LAKE. 

HOTELi IVAWBEEK. 

Most attractive location and best table and service of any 
hotel in the Adirondacks. Daily Concerts by Solo Artists. 
Write for illustrated pamphlet. 

HARLOW H. CHANDLER, Manager, 
Wawbeek, N. Y. 

RATES for Board at the Wawbeek: Per day, $4 and upward; 

by week, $17..50 and upward. Open July 1st to 

October 1st. Special rates for July. 

TDHMRI CC'Q RAQUETTE river, south end of 

irVUIflDI.CC O, Sweeney Carry. Daily Mail and 
Express to Saranac Lake. Splendid River Fishing. BOARD, 
$10 per week; $2 per day. Open May 1st to November 1st. 
Eight miles from Tupper Lake Station, A. & St. L. R. R. 
P. O. Address. OLIVER TROMBLEE, Wawbeek, N. V. 

RUSTIC LODGE, Upper Saranac Lake. P. O., Axton. 
Charles H. Wardner, Proprietor. Capacity 50. Board, 12.50 
per day; $10 to $15 per week. 

EDGEWOOD INN, Saranac Lake, Mrs. W. A. Davids, 
Proprietor. Rates, May and June, $10 to $15 per week; July 
and August, $14 to $21. Special rates for parties of two or 
more. Open May 1 to November. 

MANSION HOUSE, Elizabethtown. Charles A. Ferris, 
Manager. Rates, $2 to 12.50 per day. By the week. Special; 
given on application. 

CHAIN LAKE HOUSE, Indian Lake. Alvin Hutchins, 
Prop. Capacity 25. Rates, $2 per day; $10.50 per week. 27 miles 
from North Creek. Private conveyance from Indian Lake. 

THE MERRILL, Chateaugay Lake. Proprietor, Chas. W. 
Backus. P. O., Merrill. Capacity 100. Rates, $3 per day; $12 
to $17.50 per week. Open June 25 to October 1. 

HIGBY CAMP, Big Moose. J. H. Higby, Prop. Capacity 
50. Rates, $3 per day; $14 per week. Open May 1 to Novem- 
ber, Buckboard to Big Moose Station, 3 miles. Special. 

LOON LAKE HOUSE. Loon Lake Hotel Co. Capacity 
300. Rates, $4 to $5 per day; $17.50 to $35 per week. Open May 
to November. 

TAHAWUS HOUSE, Keene Valley. Capacity 150, Rates, 
$2 to 2 .50 per day; $10 to $15 per week. Open June 1 to Novem- 
ber. George W. Egglefleld, Proprietor, 

FLUME COTTAGE, Keene Valley, Capacity 35. Rates, 
$1.50 per day; $8 to $9 per week. Open July 1st to October, 
M. E. Luck, Proprietor. 

253 



UPPER SARANAC LAKE. 
Post office address, Sarauac Inn. Franklin To., >' Y. 



The Country of Fish and Game and Healthful Recreation. 

Terms at the Inn, $* per day: $17,50 to $28 per week. 

Capacity 200. Open May 1st to October 15th. 

DAZING ADDED, giving New Dining Room and 2r> New 
^ ^ Sleeping Rooms for Season of '95 Office Enlarged 
and other changes made for the comfort and convenience of 
guests. 

Boats, Guides, Fishing Tackle, Supplies and Camp Outfits 
furnished at the house. Correspondence solicited. Circulars 
and Maps sent on application. 

D. "W. RIDDLE, Manager. 

J. BEN HART, Asst, Manager. 

Steamers "Saranac" and "Loon" 

run to all points on the Lake, connecting with trains on the 
A. & St. L. R R Through tickets over this line obtainable 
from all points. 

ADIROIMDACKS. 

The ' BEI^KELET. 

SARANAC LAKE, N. Y. 

STREETER & DENISON, Managers. 

A First-Class House. Open Fire-places, Steam Heat. Electric 
Bells, Baths, Billiard Parlor, Etc. 

Fresh Vegetables from the Berkeley Farm. 
Free Carriage to all Trains. Open all the Year. 

RATES : $2..50 to U per day; $14 to ^'2o per week. 
Address, STREETER & DENISON, Saranac Lake, N. Y. 

254 



AIVJD COTTAGEIS. 



Three New Cottages and Hotel Annex. 



LAKE MASSAWEPIE, CHILDWOLD PARK. 

Reached by the new Adirondack and St. Lawrence line. 
Through vestihuled trains direct to Childwold Station without 
change frona Grand Central Depot, New York. 

Is an exceedingly atti'active Game and Fish Preserve, 
charmingly located in the Wilderness of the Adirondacks. 

The Park consists of upwards of fifteen thousand acres, 
embracing Lake Massawepie and a group of five charming 
mountain lakelets. 

Hotel CMldwold was erected in 1889 by the owners of 
the Childwold Estate. It is located in a tine grove of majestic 
forest trees, between two of the Park lakes and commands an 
uninterrupted view of Lake Massawepie. The House is thoi'- 
oughly constructed, pleasantly and conveniently arranged, 
and admirably adapted to promote the comforts and health of 
its guests. The table will be supplied with the best the New 
York and Boston marketsafford. 

The hunting and fishing are excellent. Canoes and experi- 
enced guides can be procured at the Hotel. 

The soil is of a gravelly nature and readily absorbs moist- 
ure. The lakes are peculiarly free from fogs. Malaria and 
Hay Fever are unknown. 

A city physician occupies a cottage in the vicinity of the 
hotel, and may be summoned at any time should his service 
be requiT-ed. 

Hotel Childwold is reached from Boston via Central 
Vermont R. R. From Plattsburgh via Chateausray 
and N.Y. C. and Saranac Lake Railroads. From New- 
York and the West via the A. & St. L. R. R. 

Terms: $3 to $4 per day ; $17.50 to $28 per week. 
Accommodations for 300 guests. Modern conven- 
iences. Open fire-places. Daily Mail and Telegraph at Hotel. 
Send for illustrated book. 

HOTEL STAGES meet every train at Childwold Station. 
Distance .5 miles. Fare $1.00. 

WM. F. INGOLD. Manager, 

p. O. Address, Massawepie, N. Y. 

255 



Pond Vmw Moaa^, 

GAI_E:, INI. Y. 

The Hotel will be abundantly supplied from the adjoining 
farm with milk, cream, fresh eggs, berries, and vegetables, 
and game in their season. Every effort will be made to insure 
the comfort and welfare of guests. 

The Hunting and Fishing are the very best. Catamount 
Poud is directly opposite the house. Boats and competent 
guides can be had at all times. Livery in connection with the 
hotel. Open the year round. Accommodations for 100 guests. 
Terms, $2 per day. Special Rates for tlie season. 

Address, E. P. GALE. PROPRIETOR. GALE, N. Y. 

Railroad Facilities. The Pond View House is six miles by 
stage from Childwold Park Station, on the A. & St. L. Rail- 
road Pullman Cars Boston to Childwold. Wagner Cars New- 
York to Childwold. 

FENTON HOUSE 

BEAVER LAKE, LEWIS COUNTY. 

More Deer and Trout than in any other part of the Adiron- 
dacks. Capacity 160 guests. Cottages and ample play grounds 
make it a most desirable place for families during the sum- 
mer. As a health resort it is conceded to be at the head. 
Daily mail. Fare to Lowville by buckboard $2. Open all the 
year. Board, $2 per day ; $9 to $10 per week. 

Address, CHARLES FENTON, Number Four, Lewis Co., N. T. 

MAACr bllici) iJA<CI Western Gateway to the 
IflUV^L l\IVtl| nUlLL. Adirondacks. On the way 
to the Fulton Chain of Lakes Accommodations for 30 guests. 
BOAHD, $1..50 per day; $7 per week Four miles from the A. & 
St L Railroad at McKeever. A. F. KISL.EY, Prop. 

Address for special conveyance into the woods. 

BALD MOUNTAIN HOUSE, P^fi^^^dl^w. 

Best of Hiiatins and Fishing. Guides, Boats. Tackle and Camp 
Supplies furnished promptly and reasonably. House open May 
1st to November 15th. Capacity, 100 guests Bates, $2.50 per 
day: $15 to $20 per week. Station. Fulton Chain on A. & St. L. 
Railroad. For special terms address, 
^Seepage 213. C. M. BARRETT & CO., Old Forge, N. Y. 

256 



LEAVITT STAGE LINE 



Riverside to Schroon Lake. 
EUGENE LEAVITT, Prop. 




Leaves Rivprside on arrival of all trains from the South. Returning 
leaves Schroon Lake to connect with trains for Saratoga Fare, SI. 00. 
New four and six-horse Concord Coaches afford a delightful ride through 
a picturesque region. 

Invalids or parties wishivg easy Carriages or Special rigs of any kind, 
can secure such on reasonable terms by addressing at Pottersville. 

ADIRONDACK STAGE COMPANY, Limited. 

STAGE AND BUCKBOARD LINE BETWEEN 

North Creek and Blue Mountain Lake. 



Through R. R. Tickets are sold to and from Blue Mountain Lake and all 
principal R. R. Offices, and baggage checked through, and the Stage Com- 
pany's Agents board all arriving trains in season to re-check baggage 
direct to hotels. 

DIRECT EXPRESS SERVICE is Maintained to and from All Points, in 
connection irith the Adiroyidacks and Xational Express Companies. 

COACH FARES are as follows : From North Creek to North River. .50c ; 
to Indian Lake (P.O.', Sl-80 ; to Cedar River Hotel. Si 00 ; to Blue Mountain 
Lake, $3.00. Applications for Special and Private Carriages, linip cards, 
etc., should be made by mail or telegraph to the Supt. Adirondack Stage 
Co. (Ltd.), at North Creek, and will receive prompt and courteous attention. 

In addition to Six and Four-horse Coaches we have a large number of 
elegant Buckboard Carriages, seating parties of three and five, which can 
be engaged by mail, telegraph, or agent on trains.at a reasonable additional 
charge, and will be in waiting at depot on arrival of any train for which it 
Is ordered . First-class service is guaranteed . 

FRED. J. DTJNN, Supt. 
257 



GRAND VIEW HOUSE, 

Lake Placid, Essex Co., N. Y. 



ENLARGED 
FOR 1893. 



OVERLOOKS LAKE PLACID AND MIRROR LAKE. 
Large Rooms. Sanitary arrangements perfect. Pure spring 
water. Telegraph in hotel. Stages meet all trains at Rail- 
road Station. TERMS: ^3 per day; $14 to $17.50 per week. 

ALLEN, TODD & IRONS, Proprietors. 



Overlooks 

Lake Placifi and 

Mirror Lake. 



tHaui$$aUA<>Mf. 

T. EDMUND KRUMBHOLTZ, Manager, Lake Placid, N, Y.; 

L:>ke Placid is the Gem of tlie Adiroudacks.' Capacity of the 
Ruisseaumont, 200 Rates: W per day; $15 to $2.5 per week. 
Open June to October. 

THE ADIRONDACK CO., Owners. 

Capacity 150. RATES: $3 per day; $18 per week. Open June 
15 to November. 

Mrs. C. L. CHILD, Proprietor, 

Post Office Address, WHlTtFACE, N. Y. 

From October to June address Lakewood. N. J. 

UNDER'CUFF o~ UAKS PUACIP 

Enter.s upon its seventh year. Its growing popularity has called 
for annual enlargement to its present capacity for 75 guests. 

The proprietor has secured the co-operation of A. Newiman 
as manager, and those who seek the woods and mountains for 
a summer sojourn may be assured of the pleasure, comfort and 
excellence suited to a refined taste. 

Although sometimes erroneously reported to the contrary, 
Under-Cliff is not a Sanitarium. 

Terms, $12 to $20 per week. 

Proprietor, DR. CHAS. D. ALTON, Hartford, Conn. 

After July 1st, address Lake Placid, N. Y. 

258- 



Telegraph and Post Office, RAY BROOK, N. Y. 
The Best Trout Fishing in the Adirondacks. 

DUNCAN CAMERON, PROPRIETOR. 

Midway between Saranac Lake and Lake Placid. Fish and 
Game a Specialiy of the table. Trout Fishing in Ray Brook 
Preserve belonging to the house. Free Carriage to Ray 
Brook Station. Address for terms, 

DUNCAN CAMERON, Ray Brook, Essex Co. N. Y. 

MOUNTAIN VIEW HOUSE, S?°o¥lJ4": 

ham and the Great Peaks from the North. Rates, $2 per 
dav: $8 to $12 per week. Open all the year. Address for par- 
ticulars, GARDINER & GKORGE, Cascadeville, N. Y. 

(AS(Ai)E LAKE KOUSE, VoT^t''ife'\^f^.'k 

Mountain Pass in the Adirondacks accessible by carriage. 
Guides, boats, hunting and fishing material furnished. Rates, 
$3 per day: $1~* to $17..o0 per week. Open June 1 to October 1. 
Post and Telegraph Office in the house: 7 miles east of Lake 
Placid Station. Address, K. 31. WESTOX, CascadeTlUe. N. Y. 

R EDSIDE OaMP, 

EAST SIDE TUPPER LAKE. 

Hunting and Fishing Resort. RATES, $2 day: $10 50 to $12 
per week. Steamer daily to Tupper Lake Station, 3 miles. 
Fare, $L Through trains to New York, $12.70. Post Office in 
the house. Open all the year. Address, 

MARTIN MOODY, Prop., Moody, Franklin Co., N. T. 

259 



nDiKGnoncK lodge, 

Clear Lake, North Elba. 

The Largest and Handsomest LOG Building in the UnitedjStates. 

And the most comfortable house in the Adirondack'Region. 

Tastefully built, in rustic style throughout, it is 

thoroughly comfortable and fitted with 

Every Modern Improvement. 

Located in the midst of various attractions of the 
Adirondack Mountains. ' 

<^mil§ Radiate from the ^odge 



I 



DIRECTLY TO THE FOLLOWING POINTS 

THE IflDIHN PHSS, 

AVALiflHCHE PASS, 
IWOOflT IWAI^CY, 
CX09) jnOVjiT IVlGlflTIl^E, 

O^OJ^ jflOVfiT JO ("The Beap"), 

uo\» IWOOflT COLiDErl, 

SOUTH JVIEADOW BASIfl. 

All of these trails have been carefully cut by experienced 
guides, expressly for the Lodge, and others will be added 
during the Summer. 

The Lodge is the headquarters for mountain climbing in the 
Adirondacks. For particulars address, 

HENRY VAN HOEVENBERGH, 

PROPRIETOR ADIRONDACK LODGE, 

North Elba, Essex Co., N. Y. 
Or, N. Y. Ageucy, Room 23, 44 Broadway, New York. 

260 



NEW /IDIROND/ICK HOUJE - 

* Situated on an elevation west of the Village of Keene 
Valley, in one of the most beautiful sections in the heart of 
the Adirondacks. Modern improvements. Bath rooms, and 
hot and cold water on every floor. Electric bells in every room. 
Open fire-places in public rooms and in 20 sleeping rooms. 
Walls finished with Adamant Wall Plaster— always dry and 
healthy. Rooms well lighted and ventilated. Mountain spring 
water on every floor. Studio for the accommodation of artists, 
and a Telegraph Ofiflce in the house. 

Our own dairy. Butter, cream and milk, always fresh and 
delicious. The table supplied with vegetables from our own 
garden, fresh every day Horses, carriages and spring buck- 
boards. Good riding horses, Tennis Courts, Ball Grounds, etc. 

Stages (morning and afternoon) for AuSable Lakes, through 
one of the mo«t wonderful and picturesque sections of the 
Adirondacks. HUNTING and FISHING in season. CAMP- 
ING PARTIES supplied with reliable guides, camping outfits, 
etc. Five doctors own summer cottages near the house. 

Buy Tickets to Westport, where guests will be met with 
comfortable carriages on receipt of telegram or letter 24 hours 
before arrival. (State number of persons and quantity of bag- 
gage.) TERMS : Per week, $12 to $20: per day, $3 to U. Single 
meal, 75 cts. Special rates for the season on application. 

SOLOMON KELLET, Prop., Keene Valley, Essex Co., N. T. 



ljL/ay5idpl99 






ar;d (Ootta(§es, 



LAKE LUZERNE, N. Y. 

T OCATED at the confluence of the Sacondaga and Hudson 



JJ 



River, 700 FEET ABOV^E TIDE WATER. Twenty miles 



from Saratoga on the Adirondack Railroad. Western Union 
Telegraph in the house. The best of accommodations: cuisine 
unexcelled; fine drives. $3.50 to $4 per day. Special 
rates for June and September. 

E. C. KING, Ma-nager. 

261 



"itiE mmmr 



RAQUETTE LAKE^ 
'New York. 
JOHN J. DALY, PROPRIETOR. 

Complete in appointments. Cuisine equal to the best; fresh 
milk, cream, and vegetables in abundance. 

Delightfully shaded by numerous Pines, Hemlocks, and 
Birches. 

Telegraph and Post Office adjoins the hotel. 

Hunting and Fishing as good as any. 

Camp Outfits supplied Guides furnished on application. 

Rates for Board. $3 per day: $17.50 to $2.5 per week, ac- 
cording to location of rooms. Children and nurses at reduced 
rates. Special rates for season, and for months of September 
and October. 

Address for particulars, 

JOHN J. DALY, 

See page 197. Raqucttc Lake, N. Y. 

SUNSET CA]W[P. 

PARTIES visiting Raquette Lake will find good accommoda- 
tions at Sunset Camp, situated on one of the finest points 
on tbp liake and in the centre of the best of hunting and fishing. 
Fresh Milk and Vegetables, and plentv of Trout and Venison 
In their season. ACCOMMODATION, 2.5 guests. RATES, $10 
to $15 per week; $2 per day. For further information, apply to 
R. BENNETT, Raquette Lake, N. Y. 

CRANBERRY LAKE HOUSE. ^^^kITy!"''' 

Rates K per day. The best Trout Fishing and Sporting grounds 
in the Adirondacks; 100 lakes and ponds within 7 miles. Beau- 
tiful sand beach: excellent bathing. W. R. BISHOP, Manager. 
Stage daily from Benson Mines during July and August. 

CEDAR ISLAND CAMP. ^^o^'^^^S^^b^:,^ 

May aiifl June, per day, $2.50 ; July 1 to Sept. 10, $3.00. Per week, $12 to $17. 
Ojjen May to October. 

DnOW nnillT mil rocky point inn CO.. proprietors P.O., 
nUulVl ruin I IHHj Old Forge, N.Y. Capacity 100. Rates, $3 to 
ki per day ; $15 to $2.5 week. Open June 15 to Oct. 15 Stage from Fulton 
Chain Statiou to Old Forge. Steamboat daily to head of Fourtli Lake. 

262 



Tf)e Ondava, 'n°.\^^''' 

O'CONNOR BROS,, Proprietors. 

CAPACITY, 100. RATES, $2 per day; $10 to 812 per week. 
"A Noted Sporting and Pleasure Resort." Open ttie year 
round. Address for particulars, 

See page 173-a O'CONNOR BROS., SCHROON LAKE, N. Y. 



NEW YORK DRY GOODS STORE. 
REYSER & BRO., 

• • • DEALERS IN • • • 

DRY and FANCY GOODS, NOTIONS, 

Ladies' Furnishing Goods, Jewelry and Heady-Made ClotMng. 
SCHROON LAKE, N. Y. 

PYRAMID LAKE HOir^T&r'-"- 

Fishing preserve. Black Bass and Speckled Trout. Deer, 
partridge, and small game. Accommodation for 100 guests. 
BOARD, $2 per day; $10 to $12 per week. The half-way house 
in the wilderness between Ticonderoga and Schroon Lake. 
Telephone. Daily stage and mail. See page ir3-c. 

GROVE POINT HOUSE i^ete're'fflnf'SasS 

three sides by the waters of PICTURESQUE SCHKOON LAKE, one-half mile 
south of Schroon Villagre. commandinpr an extensive view of Lake and 
raountains. The Steamer EFFINGHAM touches at the Hotel Wharf 6 times 
daily. Guests of the house have the privilege of riding to and from the 
Village free. The rooms are good size, well ventilated, and furnished in 
antique oak. The beds have hair mattresses and woven wire springs. A 
broad piazza affording promenade of over 300 feet. Pine Groves. Fine 
sand beach with Rath-houses, Tennis C^ourts. Croquet Grounds, etc. STEAM 
LAUNCHES by the day or hour. ROW BOATS by the week, month or sea- 
son, at reasonable rates. Kates, .§2 .50 per dav ; SIO to S14 per week. 

Address, W. R. MACKENZIE, Ppoppietop. 

From May lOth to October 1st, Schroon Lake, Essex Co., N. Y. 

From October 1st to May lOth, St. Helena-by-the-Sea, Beaufort Co., Frog- 
more P. C, S.mth Carolina. 

263 



T^DIRONDKOKS. 



15 Cottages, 

Located on SCHROON LAKE, among the Pines. 

CKPKCITV ITS GUESTS. 

<:^ <:^ -=^- 

Electric Lig-hts. 
Pure Spring "Water. 
All Sanitary Arrangements complete. 
Amusements. 
Music for Parlor Hops. 
Billiard Parlor. 
Bowling- Alley. 

Lawn Tennis and Croquet Grounds. ?6^^> 

<::^ <^ <::^ "^^ *'-=^^ 

RATES: $2.50 to $3 Per Day; $12 to $21 Per Week. 

OPEN JUNE TO OCTOBER. 




For full particulars and Illustrated Circular, address 

C. F. TAVliO!^ St SO'fi, Proppietops, 
P. 0. TAYLOR'S-ON-SCHROON, WARREN CO., N. Y. 

264 



Wnicn KocK Hotel 

KND COTTKGES, 

® On SOHROON LAKE. 



OPENS JUNE 15. CLOSES OCTOBER 1 



GEO. CECIL, Owner and Proprietor, 
Adirondack, Warren Co., N. Y. 

POTTERSVILLE HOTEL 

FOOT OF SCHROON LAKE. 

Hunting and Fishing Resort. Dining place for Schroon Lake 

passengers. Kates, f;;^ per daj-; 87 to $10 per week. 

Special for the Season. 

JOHN B. WELLS, - Proprietor. 

P. 0. ADDRESS, POTTERSVILLE, N. Y. 

"The Little Red Guide" gives Time- 

Tables of all near lines in the most convenient form. 
It is issued semi-monthly by C. S. Pease, of Albany, 
and sent post-paid to subscribers at $2 per annum, 
including- a neat morocco case. It can be had on 
the trains and at the news stands generally at ten 
cents per^copy. 

265 



NORTH RIVER HOTEL 

is on the Hudson River, n miles from the terminus of the 

Adirondack Railroad, at North Creek, on the 

Direct Road to Blue Mountain Lake, and is the 

regular dining place for passengers 

going and coming. Telegraph- connection with the Western 
Union. Stages and patent Canopy-top Buckboards carry 

guests to and from all trains. Capacity for -40 guests. 
RATES : Meals 75 cts ; $2.50 per day : $10 to $15 per week. 

Buckboards run to this house on arrival of afternoon trains at North Creek 
and can be had for Blue Mountain Lake next morning. 

lAKlEY & SULLIVAN, Props. P. 0. Konl KlTer, Warrej Co,, N. Y. 

Blue M ountain L afce H ouse, 

JOHN G. HOLLAND. Proprietor. 

BLUE MOUNTAIN LAKE, HAMILTONCO., N. Y. 

Blue Mountain Lake, the Gem of the Adirondack 
Lakes, is located in the heart of the Great 
Wilderness, 1,800 feet above tide. 

The New Blue Mountain Lake House is a large, durable 
structure, located on a dry, sandy elevation, 50 feet above the 
Lake, and with its outlying cottages, furnishes ample accom- 
modations for four hundred guests. 

Everything new^ cleanly, comfortable and home-like. Pure 
Mountain Spring Water, Perfect Drainage, Absolute freedom 
from Malaria. Positively proof against all forms of Hay Fever. 

The surrounding scenery is a poem of beauty, and the pure, 
dry, invigorating atmosphere is Nature's Life-giving tonic. 
Table first-class in every respect. Vegetables and milk fresh 
from the hotel farm. 

Open from April to November. 

Rates, ¥3 to H per day. Per Week, according to location of 

room. 

Daily Mails. Telegraph office in the Hotel. Large Fire- 
places m Parlor and Office. Steamers leave Blue Mountain 
Lake Ho use dock daily for all points. 

BRlCrifSl!>E ON RftQUEffE, %?Suc^;f.^^ v. 

J. O. A. BRYERE, Proprietor. 

This house, which has been enlarged, will be open May to Nov. 
Terms, *l-2.50 per week: $2 per day. The house is built on the 
South Shore of Indian Point and commands a fine view of the 
surrounding Mountain Scenery. Fare to North Creek, $4.2.5. 

266 



Bme -MoaNTjim • Hoqse, 

TYLER M. MERWIN, Proprietor. 

Is situated at the head of Blue Mountain Lake, on an eleva- 
tion of 200 feet above its surface and 140 rods distant. 

The view of the surrounding lakes and mountains from this 
point is unequalled in this section. 

Terms: $10 to $15 per week; m to $2.50 per day. 

Capacity of house, 80. 

Open all the year. Rates reduced for the winter. All com- 
munications should be addressed to 

TYLER M. MERWIN, Blue Mountain Lake, Hamilton Co.. N. Y. 

j:^"Be careful and address Blue Mountain House, 
instead of Blue Mountain Lake House. Telegraph in house. 

R^aUETTE LAKE. 

"TP)G aniLGR^," 

Under the Management of C. H. BENNETT. 

OPENS MAY 1. 

"The Antlers'" is centrally located on one of the finest 
points on the Lake, and commands beautiful Mountain Views 
of the Surrounding Country. It is built on the colonization 
plan, having in connection several cottages that can be rented 
entire or at the usual room rates. The table is the best that 
can be found in the woods Boats and Guides in connection 
with the House. Wines served at table only. Capacity of 
house 75. BOARD, $3 per day; $17.50 to $21 per week. 

For further information address, 

C. H. BENNETT, 

Raquette Lake, Hamilton Co., N. Y. 

267 



LONG LMFCE. 



The flem 



See page 207.. 



Long Lake, Hamilton Co., N. Y. 




ACCOMMODATIONS FOR 250 

GUESTS. 

OPEN ALL THE YEAR. - 

TELEGRAPH AND DAILY 

MAILS. 



E. BUTLER, Proprietor, 



The New "Sagamore, 

LONG LAKE. 

268 



» 



GROVE HOUSE, ^°^l\^^^' 

Locaterl in a pine grove at junction of Blue Mt. and Kaquette Lake Roads' 
1 mile from South Pond. 2><i miles from Owl's Head Pond and Mountain. 
Good trail the coming: season. Owl's Head Pond is best trout fishing in the 
Adirondacks. Buttermilk Falls, two miles, good bass fishing. Plenty of 
pickerel are here. Good deer, partridge and duck sl'ooting in season. 
Guides, boats and carriages to and from trains at North Creek on applics/- 
tion. Post Office (Grove) in the house. Mails twice daily. BOARD, per 
day, $2..50 ; per week, $10 to §14 ; Dinner, 75 cents ; Supper or Breakfast, 50 
cents. Open the entire year. 

DAVID G. HELVES, Proprietor. 



ADIRONDACK FORESTRY 

A tract of nearly 4,000 acres of 
unbroken forest on 

LONG LAKE, 

THE HEART OF THE ADIRON- 
DACKS, with miles of beautiful 
shores, sandy beaches, bold 
points, sheltered coves and the 
magnificent forest. Choice 
Camp and Villa Sites in 10 acre 
lots for sale, including Game 
and Forest privilege of the en- 
tire tract, at S500 a lot ; a few 
of the best held at $1,000. 

Any of these lots may be 
leased for three or five years at 
§25 or §.50 and taxes per year, 
with privilege of purchasing at 
above price at any time during 
lease. 

FORKED PINE CAMP to let for 
season. Roomy, rustic lodge, 
with big fire-place. Kitchen 
and dining-room separate. 
Landing, Beach, Spring- everything complete. Apply to Trustees, 
HAZARD STEVENS. .53 Devonshire Street, Boston, Mass. ; OSCAR B. RE- 
LAND, Springfield, Mass. ; GEORGE E. TERRY, Waterbury, Conn. ; or 
HENRY D. KELLOGG, Agent, Long Lake, Hamilton Co., N. T. 

I5L/!Nb HOUSE, - LONQ LAKE. 

A. C. ROBINSON, Proprietor. 

F». O., l^ong Lake, Hamilton Co., N. Y. 

Capacity 25. RATES, $2 per day. Central resort for huntei 
and fisherman. 

269 




1895 The 1895 

Ghateaugay Railroad 

BETWEEN 

Plattsburgh p^^ Saranac Lake, 

TO THE 

Adirondack Mountains, 

IN CONNECTION WITH THE 

Delaware and Hudson Railroad. 



THE ONLY LINE TO 

Chazy, Chateaugay and Saranac Lakes and Lake Placid, 

•which takes the traveler for nearly one hundred miles 
along the beautiful shores of Lake Champlain. 



DRAWING ROOM CARS on all trains 

Wagner palace sleeping cars on all night trains, and 
Wagner drawing room cars on all day trains between 

Nexv York: and PlattsbtirgLi ^-^* 



Tickets, Sleeping and Drawing Room Car Accommodations, 
and Baggage Checked from all Stations, 

After June 25th, trains will be run through to Lake Placid 
without change. 

J. N. STOWER, FRED. W. JOHNSON, Supt,, 

Gen'l Manager. Plattsburgh, N, Y, 

270 




The ♦ ♦ ♦ 

& jfladson 
JP^ailt^oad. 



The LEADING TOURIST LINE of America. 
The SHORTEST and MOST PICTURESQUE Route 

BETWEEN 

New York and Montreal. 

THE ONLY DIRECT ROUTE TO 

Saratoga, Lake George, Lake Chaniplain, 

Hotel Chamjylain, Adirondack Moim- 

tainSf All Sable Chasiu, Round Lake, 

Howe's Cave, Sharon Springs, 

Cooperstoivn, and the unigue 

Gravity Itailroad, 

LCW PRICE EXCURSION TICKETS 

TO ALL THE FAMOUS LAKE and MOUNTAIN RESORTS 

are on sale at the Company's offices in Albany, Troy, 

and Saratoga, during the season of pleasure travel. 

H. G. YOUNG, J. "W. BURDICK, 

2d Vice-Prest., Albany, N. Y. General Passenger Agent. 

271 



J 



A Beautiful Book 
for 4 Cents. = - = 



A COPY OF THE 



tl^ 



Illustrated 
Catalogue 



of the " Four-Track Series " New York Central Books and 
Etchings will be sent to any address free, postpaid, on receipt 
of two 2-cent stamps by George H. Daniels, General Passenger 
Agent, Grand Central Station, New York. Send also for 

" Health and Pleasure on America's Greatest Railroad/' 

538 pages, 300 illustrations. Pronounced by competent judges 
the finest book of its character ever issued— ten 2-cent stamps . 

" Fishing Among the Thousand Islands." 

56 pages, beautifully illustrated with new half-tone engravings 
and diagrams locating all the choice fishing grounds of the St. 
Lawrence; also all about tackle and fishing— five 2-cent stamps 



-/VOW READY.- 

272A 



Passenger Rates from New York 



Via . . 



New York Central & 

Hudson River Railroad 

AND CONNECTING LINES. 

NOTE.-Through Tickets to the following points are on sale 
It all New York Offices of the New York Central & Hudson 
Rive J SoaS Excursion Tickets are issued at prices given 
in the column of figures under " And Return .. 

For further information apply to George H. Daniels Uen 
eral Passenger Agent, Grand Central Station, New \ork. 

And 



And 
Return 

moo 

14.25 
17.00 
12.65 
10.30 
14.50 



TO 

Montreal 



TO 

Albany $3.10 

AuSable Chasm ... 7.8d 
Blue Mountain Lake 8.95 

tBaldwin 6.70 

*Caldwell 5.55 

Childwold 7.90 

DeKalb Junction. . . 8.61 

Elizabethtown 7.80 14.50 

Forked Lake 20.50 

Fort Ticonderoga.. 5.95 

Fulton Chain 6.45 11.90 

Glens Falls 4.80 8.80 

Gouverneur 8.21 

tLake Placid 9.80 17.75 

*Lake George 5.55 10.30 

Through and return 

via Ticonderoga. 12.65 

Lake Kushaqua. . . . 8.80 16.00 

§Loon Lake 8.80 16.00 

Lake Luzerne (Had- 

ley) 4.86 8.80 

Malone 902 

* Saturday to Monday Excursion Rate, $8..50. 

t Four-Da> Excursion Rate, $10.00. 

X Friday to Monday Excursion Rate,|14.9o. 

§ Friday to Monday Excursion Rate, $13.20, 

272-B 



Return 

.f 10 00 S17 50 



11. .50 
5.94 
4.78 
6 70 
9.55 
8.00 
7.60 
9 02 

10.20 



via Lake George 

North Creek 

Northville 

Old Forge 

§Paul Smith's 

Plattsburgh 

Port Kent 

Potsdam 

Raquette Lake ... 

Riverside 5.70 

Rome o30 

Rouse's Point 8.(0 

Saratoga 4.-0 

Saranac Inn 9.Uo 

^Saranac Lake, 

(Lower) 8.80 

Schroon Lake 7.4d 

Troy 3-1'"' 

Tupper Lake 8.10 

Westport 6.81 



19.00 
11.00 

12.40 
17.25 
14.75 
14.00 

19.50 
10.50 

15.35 
7.50 
16.75 

16.00 
14.00 
6.10 
14.90 
12.45 



^aranac and Isal^e placid 

From the Great Cities to the Heart of the Adiron- 
dacks without change. 

Drawing-room cars run through to Plattsburgh, 

Montreal, Boston and New York. 
Baggage and transfer agent on all trains ap- 
proaching Lake Placid. 

C. E. ARNOLD, Pres't. A. J. VOYER, Sec. & Treas. 

O. WEAVER, Supt. 

Summer Homes 

Among the Green Hills of Vermont, and along 

the Shores of Lake Champlain. 

AN ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF 148 PAGES, 

Prepared from a canvass of the state by a special agent of the 
CENTRAL VERMONT RAILROAD, 

Containing the names, post office address, and prices per 
week, from Four to Ten Dollars, for the entertainment of 
summer boarders in a selected number of the best family 
homes in the above most favored locality of the north, for 
those seeking recreation, health and out-door amusements. 
Also list of the best hotels, and number they can accommo- 
date, with their rates; with 75 pages descriptive of the scenic 
attractions and natural beauties of the State, and a short 
sketch of each town along the line of the road. Also a list 
of Special Summer Excursion Rates to Vermont Points and 
return. Copy sent free on application to 

T. H. HANLEY, N.E.P.A., 260 Washington St., Boston. 
OrtoS.W.CUMMINGS.G P.A.,C.V.R.R , St. Albans.Vt 

"The Gripsack" Umbrella 

can be folded up to carry in a gripsack, coat pocket or ladies' 
shopping bag. The only practical folding umbrella on the 
market. 

Manufactured by 

The Gripsack Umbrella Co., (Patentees) Glens Falls, N.T. 

272-c 



The ■way from tlie East 



"TO Wonderland" 

The N. Y. C. & H. R. R.; The Michigan Central; The Chicago, 
Milwaukee & St. Paul, and the Northern Pacific Railroads. 

Michigan Central 

Buffalo, Niagara Falls. Detroit, Toledo, 
Chicago and the West. 

"The Niagara Falls Route," 

The only Railroad running in full view of the Great Cataract. 
All day trains stop five minutes at Falls View, 
directly above Horseshoe Falls. 
Write to O. W. RUGGLES, G. P & T. A , Chicago, 111., for 
a beautifully illustrated book of tours. 



Lovers of the Beautiful 

"Will be pleased to learn that a collection of 
twenty of the finest views in Wisconsin and 
Minnesota may be obtained, free of postage, 
by the sending of an address and fifty cents 
(in postage, or otherwise), to Geo. H. Heaf- 
ford, General Passenger Agent, C, M. St. 
P. R'y. Chicago, Illinois. P. S. -As the sup- 
ply is limited, early application should be 
made. 



273 



<i^^ ADIROND ACKS. _-=^i> 

St. Htibet^ts Inn 

AflD COTTAGES. 

IN THE MOUNTAINS AT KEENE HEIGHTS, 
The Head of 

Beautiftil Keene Valley, 

THE SWITZERLAND OF AMERICA. 

BEEDE & HOUGHTON, - Proprietors, 

BEEDE'S, Essex County, N. Y. 



New Hotel with all modern improvements. OPEN JULY 
1st to OCTOBER 1st. Close by entrance to Adirondack Moun- 
tain Reserve. Mail, Telegraph, Livery and convenient Stage 
Service. Spacious rooms, open fire-places, steam heat, pure 
water, and perfect drainage are all provided for. 



Wildwood Paths to Streams and "Waterfalls. Trails 

to the Tops of Marcy, Skyligiit, Gothics, 

Colvin, Dix, Noonmark and the Giant. 

Finest Drive in the Adirondacks through the Re- 
serve to the Au Sable Lakes. 



For Illustrated Circulars, &c., address, 

BEEDE & HOUGHTON, 

Beede's, Essex County, N. Y. 

274 



Lake Champlain Steamers 

SUMMER ARRANGEMENT. 

SEASON OF ness. 

" VFRMONT," Capt. R. Arbuckle. 

12:15 P. M., connecting with trains lor arrival of 

George. Returning, leave_ ^^^^^J'^^rS^. M. ■. Westport, 
trains from tHe South and Lake Geor^e^ ^^^ p^^^^^. 

Sh "BR^ElKFtsVTmN/E^« an^/ S^^ Served on Board. 

"rHATEAUGAY," Capt. Baldwin, 

C n A I L rv VJ y^^ » ' touching at Essex, Burlmg- 
will leave Westport at . -TO A. Mtouc^^^ ^^^^^^ p^^^^^. 

ton. Port Ken . Bluff Point (C|t^^\^c s,^^ ^^ ^^ ^^^ ^^ 

Srn?n^' ??avl No^r?rH4r^^^ touching as ahove, 

arrive at Westpon 6^:45 JJ^^^,,^o^N^sO^«0,_________ 



Lake Georg^Steamers. 

"HonirON *' Capt. E. S. Harris, 

llS^tSs Vr'iSe c'hirplaSrf turning, leave BaWw.n 
r.WPM^^or Caldwell and the South. ^ . ,^., 

"TiroNDEROGA," Capt.F.C.whtte, 

„JllS?B^aipr:S'r^^^^^^^^^ 

— gfeSa^ra^^lotS^^^^^^^^ Bal..n. 

** MOHICAN," Capt. Wesley tinkle, 

moonlight rides GEORGE RUSHLOW, 

DiiDi iwrrnN VT General Manager. 

General Office : BURLINGTON, vi. 

275 



Blue Mountain /Raquette Lake 

Steamboat Line. 

Steamers will run daily except Sundays, as follows : 
Steamers For Raquette Lake. 

Leave Blue Mountain Lake House 8.05 A M. 

Prospect House 8.25 " 

Marion River Carry, East End.. 9.25 " 
Marion River Carry, West End. 10.00 " 

Post and Telegraph Offices 10.55 " 

The Hemlocks 11 05 " 

The Antlers 11.15 " 

Arrive Foi-ked Lake Carry ... 12.15 P.M. 

Steamers for Blue Mountain' Lake. 

Leave Forked Lake Carry A.] 

Arrive The Antlers (for dinner) 

" The Hemlocks (for dinner) 

Leave The Antlers *8 30 " 

The Hemlocks 8.40 " 

Post and Telegraph Offices 8.45 " 

" Marion River Carry (West End) 9 35 " 
Marion River Carry (East End) 10.20 " 

" Prospect House 11.20 " 

Arrive Blue Mountain Lake House 11.35 ' 

*These trips Avill commence about July 10th. 
Passengers for Sunset Camp and south part of Raquette 
Lake land at Post Office. Steamers will stop at points not on 
Time Table on the regular route, when it is feasible and does 
not interfere with schedule time, on notice to captain or 
signal from shore. 

FARES. 

Blue .Mountain Lake to Marion River Carry fO.75 

The Hemlocks 1.25 

" The Antlers 1.25 

" " Forked Lake Carry 1.75 

Excursion Rates, good for one day only. 
Blue Mountain Lake to Marion River Carry and return. $1.00 

" '* The Hemlocks and return 2.00 

" " The Antlers and return 2.00 

" " Forked Lake Carry and return. 2.50 

Children over five years, full fare. Guides, when not with 
party, half fare. J. G. THOMPSON, Supt. 

276 



*2.20P.M. 


2.40 " 


3.50 " 


4.25 " 


5 30 " 


5.35 " 


5.40 " 


e. 

12 25 P.M. 


1.25 ' 




1.30 ' 




2.35 ' 




2 45 ' 




2.50 ' 




3.35 ' 




4.10 ' 




5.10 ' 




5 25 ' 





Chained 

to Business 




And can*t go fisMng or shooting:? Then do 
the next best thing: — read about it in the 
" Forest and Stream," the sportsman's weekly. 

Send 10 cents for a sample copy and circular of Our 
handsome pictures given as premiums. Catalogue 
of books on outdoor sports sent free. Address, 
Forest and Stream, P. O. Box 3832, New York, 



REPORT YOUR LUCK 
with Rod and Gun to 

Fores f and Stream 



^ 



27S 



THE Funk & Wagnall'S 

STANDARD DICTIONARY 

OF THE EN GLISH L ANGUAGE. 

Nothing Left Undone. 
Mature, London, England: J. Norman Lockykr, the cele- 
brated astronomer, editor: " It passes the wit of man to 
suo-gest anything which ought to have been done that has 
not been done to make the dictionary a success. 

Most Complete and Most Satisfactory. 
TJie New York Herald : " We are free to pronounce it the 
most complete and most satisfactory dictionary yet printed. 
This is high praise, to be sure, but it is well merited. 

It Satisfies Every Need of a Dictionary. 
TJie Times -Democrat, New Orleans: "He who has the 

Standard at his elbow to refer to for the meaning, pro- 
nunciation, or derivation of a word, or for its compounds, 
synonyms, antonyms or phrase use, will never need another 
dictionary to help him out " 

Gr AMEL AN U. stories, pictures 
:ind items about bii-ds, dogs, fishes, trees 
and rtowers, rods and guns, landscapes, 
woodcraft, camp life, rural retreats, and 
j,'eneral natural history subjects J If so, 
subscribe for "Gameland," the gentle 
sportsman's magazine of shooting and 
fishing. It reaches 60,000 refined men and 
women, and is read by the household. 
Yearly, One Dollar ; postage free ; no free 
copies. Address : 

CHARLES BRADFOED, Publisher, 13 Astor Place, New York. 

"DREW or "DEAN rTcHMOND/' 
PEOPLE'S EVENING LINE. 

You will enjoy all the comforts of good living. Table sup- 
plied with the best the markets afford. The excellence of the 
cuisine is a feature of this line. This is the tourisfs and pleas- 
ure seeker's route, as well as the business man's. A steamer 
leaves Albany for New York (every week day) 8 p. m. Leaves 
New York for Albany (every week day) from Pier 41, N. R., 
foot of Canal street, 6 p.m. FARE, $1.50. ROUND TRIP, 12.50. 
]VI. B. WATEDRS, G. F». A. 

2 79 




Picture Taking Is Easy 

IF 



VOU DO IT XA/ITH 

•KODAK 

An illustrated manual, 
free with ever y instrument, 
tells all about making the 
exposures and how to/' do 
the rest" but, of course 'we 
do the rest" when you 
prefer. 

A 60 page, illustrated catalogue, telling all about 
Kodaks and Kodets, free for the asking. 

EASTMAN KODAK CO. 

■ \ $6''o^Foiim.OO. \ • Rochester, N. Y. 



280 



s 





J 




«^ 



>^x^ 




»^^^ 



**THE ADIRONDACKS ^ ^"^^f. -}- 
AND THEM GLORIFIED," 

{From tJie New Tork Mail and Expre&s ^ 
tTune 9th, 1894.) 

"Close Upon the heels pf Murray 
came S. R. Stoddard, with his camera, 
his note book and his brush, all of which 
he has used continuously for twenty- 
three years to make the fame of the 
Adirondack Wilderne? known to the 
outside world. Stodda. i has done even 
more than Hurray t publish the results 
of his discoveries, for in guide books, on 
his maps, in his marvelous photographs, 
on the lecture platform, on the screen, 
in poetry and in song, he has for nearly 
a quarter of a< century preached the 
Adirondacks, and them glorified." 









LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




D00E10t30fi'^t, 



